How can the fuel tank sender be checked for proper operation? Would rather fix myself if possible than loose a week or three in a shop somewhere again..
How can the fuel tank sender be checked for proper operation? Would rather fix myself if possible than loose a week or three in a shop somewhere again..
First check the wire connections at the sender. Should be black on the ground and pink on the center stud or terminal. You can remove the sending unit carefully, NO SPARKS, and test between the two connections for something like 35 to 125 ohms on your volt/ohm meter. Move the float arm from empty to full position and check the ohm reading. If it's good, proceed to the wiring and the guage.
Steven, I take it you received my email?
I checked for a reply this morning but had none.
Yes, got your e-mail, however it does not state HOW to check the sender.. I am giving this motor one more shot, if it continues to perform in this manner, now it just spits and sputters after being in a no wake zone, doesn't idle well at all, not smooth and stumbles.., will need to make some choices. 12 hours on it , So much for no service for 3 years...can you tell I am totally disgusted or what.. All the good stuff you hear on here about these motors is a total myth to me..I haven't experienced it.
Where is a direct rep/tech from BRP, let them have a shot at it?![]()
06 ETEC 225HO
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShaftDilbert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All the good stuff you hear on here about these motors is a total myth to me..I haven't experienced it.
06 ETEC 225HO
</TD></TR></TABLE>
who is your dealer and what kind of training certificates do the mechanics have?
Have you talked to BRP customer service? If so, who, when, and what did they say?
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
To answer your questions Seahorse:
I do not have a local dealer, one of the reasons the ETEC was chosen was the claim about not needing service for 3 years. If you want to know who rigged it then it was R&H/Legend in AR.
I failed to ask our infamous moderator otherwise known as "deleted by Rusty 63" for his training certificates. I do fully understand your concern here though, which is why it was towed 5 hours away to insure having a qualified tech work on it. It does seem have more grunt top and bottom now. Will go back to a RakerII 26 and see if it can pull it now..
Have not called BRP, guess its time.. have a number and contact for me?
I see you are in Birmingham AL, do you work in a shop there? It would be closer for me...
Steven...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShaftDilbert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I failed to ask our infamous moderator otherwise known as "deleted by Rusty 63" for his training certificates.
Steven...
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All of the moderators here are at least OMC certified and I will guarantee you that Rusty63 is E-tec certified!! If you want to complain about the motor fine, but DO NOT mess with a Moderator or question their ability! We provide a free service on these pages and do not get paid one penny!!! Our purpose is to keep you on the H20 to the best of our abilities. Trouble shooting via the internet is very difficult at times, if you live in Newnan GA there are several dealers in your area. Consult http://www.evinrude.com .
amen Champ!!!!!!
here is the dealers in your area ( link to the site and list) http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Dealer.htm
Now I think you need to send all the moderators at least a case of their fav hard drink not brew but crown or something like that would work.
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[I]TEAM CORGI DOG[I]
1996 javelin 400T /1996 Johnson 200 Venom
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShaftDilbert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I failed to ask our infamous moderator otherwise known as "deleted by Rusty 63" for his training certificates. I do fully understand your concern here though, which is why it was towed 5 hours away to insure having a qualified tech work on it. It does seem have more grunt top and bottom now. Will go back to a RakerII 26 and see if it can pull it now..
Have not called BRP, guess its time.. have a number and contact for me?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you saying that our "supreme leader", the red headed step child, was the one who worked on your motor. If so, you don't need us, we bow to his expertise.
The number for customer service is 847-689-7090 and have your serial number handy.
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
Boy you guys defend these so called mighty ETECS, I only hope that I feel that way if it ever gets fixed up. Championman you need to back off big boy... you are way to defensive, I in no way was questioning Rusty abilities, only answering MR Seahorses question in the manner it was put to me as though it is my fault for not picking a qualified tech. Quite the contrary, Rusty was the only one out of a handful or so places that was willing to tackle some of the outstanding issues such as the I-command and a totally poor running ETEC. Rest assured he had his hands full on this one. And no there aren't any places near me that were willing to ..If you think you can take care of my last two issues you are welcome to do so........
Mr. Dilbert, first off you negeated to say where you bought your engine, or if you bought it as a set( boat and motor,) or as a stand alone. as for dealers I looked on the dealer list and there are 3-4 dealer within 75 miles of you. Now if you did not buy the motor at a local dealer as with cars and such you get in line and wait. You were the one that wanted a special deal (price) that probably these dealers could not or would not give you. So to save money you went out of your area, it happens that now you may be negated back behind the customers that bought from the local dealers. All BRP dealers that sell e-tecs must honor warrenties as with auto makers but their customers come first as with auto dealers. Now that said you need to take a deep breath and back up and have a beer , most of us ( seahorse, Champ and my self and others ) are not privie to what you and rusty mailed each other about. all we see is your degrading of persons and products.
AS seahorse has suggested call BRP and have your model and serial number ready and talk to customer service, the number is on the site and you should have called them when you had your first issues rather than degrade people who are trying to help.
I want to ask you a major question what kind of boat are you running and have you checked the check valve in the tanks sending unit and either replaced it or removed it? I had one go bad and also had the tank switch sucking air when switched. this was with 2 tanks , I took out the tanks and replaced with 1- 50 gal tank , and you know what 90% of my problems went away and I have those crappy adjustable carbs.
So call BRP and sit back and find a local dealer if you are not willing to make runs to the dealer or person who sold you the motor.![]()
[I]TEAM CORGI DOG[I]
1996 javelin 400T /1996 Johnson 200 Venom
Let me give you all some history on this....
I get a call asking me if I will look at a E-Tec powered Legend that has some issues and of course I accepted the challenge.
Boat showed up on Saturday 7-17-06 and we were 2 weeks behind.
Here is the list of issues....
(1) Need all motor updates, motor seems to be missing at last 10-15% of of throttle.
(2) I-Command not connected to GPS, speed over ground does not work on speedometer, gas guage does not work.
(3) Bleed hydraulic steering.
(4) Motor height is not correct, replace jack plate parts with customer supplied parts to achieve correct motor height.
(5) Would like to purchase spare keys and kill switch lanyard.
List of service performed on customers rig......
(1) EMM updated to latest map version, deflector pins installed along with new spark plugs, water pressure relief valve grommet sealed, foot throttle adjusted to allow full throttle. All covered by BRP Warranty.
(2) I-Command system installed incorrectly, rewired and MADE harnesses to connect I-Command to Lowrance GPS, Verified ALL Guages Work.
Customer was charged for parts $75.16 and Labor of ONE HOUR ($70.00) even though Dealer had untold phone calls to Lowrance and BRP to get mess made by selling dealer straighted out....not to mention 3 days Labor. (it was a big mess)
(3) Bleed steering, No CHARGE to Customer.
(4) Replace outer jack plate angles with customer supplied parts, Lake test to set motor height....(replace jack plate parts one hour $70.00)
(Lake test to set motor height, 1.5 hours, $105.00)
(Verify all guages work again).
(5) Key and Lanyard supplied by parts department.
This boat, after repairs were performed, showed 71.4 GPS (on average) at 5860 RPM (with customers supplied prop) light load and had no running issues from idle to WOT.
Customer picked up boat 08-05-06 with a total service bill of $360.70.
Received email stating customer took boat out and after one mile Hot light and horn came on, Customer lowered motor to resolve this.
Customer also stated that after filling fuel tank the fuel guage went to empty and stayed there.
In my reply to the email I asked what the trim guage reading was when the motor overheated, still waiting for the answer, also stated we did not have a problem with the motor loading up at idle and as for the fuel guage reading it will need to be checked to find the problem.
We have not been contacted since the ONLY email to offer help resolving the customers issues but the customer has seen fit to go to a public forum and show his displeasure with the product.![]()
(RUSTY63)
John Laws
Service Manager
Music City Marine
615-443-5300
8:00 to 5:00 Monday Through Friday
8:00 to 5:00 Saturdays
I don't know how this got so out of text, but regardless I hereby offer you Rusty an apology for anything that was taken in the wrong manner.
I greatly appreciated the effort you put into fixing the issues of which all but 2 remain. I myself saw the fuel gage reading when I picked up the boat, all I did was fill it up and it no longer works. You also test drove the boat and had no issue with rough idle etc. What can I say it did for me from the second it was started.
I think it best I just withdraw....
Again apologies to anyone who was offended.
Steven
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShaftDilbert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know how this got so out of text, but regardless I hereby offer you Rusty an apology for anything that was taken in the wrong manner.
I think it best I just withdraw....
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Are you now going to find another forum and post ".. All the good stuff you hear on here about these motors is a total myth to me..I haven't experienced it...", or something to that effect????
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
You have now experienced the passionate obsession with Evinrude/Johnson motors on this board... After re-reading your post, I can see you were making a tongue in cheek reply answering the "who's your mechanic" question and unfortunately without hearing the tone of your voice it was read and taken literally and caused all the defensive replies.
Get an appointment and get your boat back up to Rusty and let him finish sorting things out for you. You have to be patient since he's tackling problems that were not initiated by his shop. Some of this new technology has not be mastered by every shop so any mistakes can be difficult for a new shop to locate and eliminate.
Now that we know the whole story, it goes back to my original post about the abilities and the training of the ones who rigged the boat initially <U>(who is your dealer and what kind of training certificates do the mechanics have?). </U>They are the ones who caused ShaftDilbert to have the bad attitude, and rightly so.
The folks who installed his motor and rigged the boat had a high degree of indifference and a lack of training or common sense about how a boat is to be set up and adusted.
You see this all over the 'net where someone complains about a boat or a motor not working right. 90% of the time it is the dealer's attitude about doing things correctly and also the lack of training or experience of his or her workers. It doesn't matter what make, they all have to be set up correctly.
Those of us in the industry know that the products are good and rarely give problems when installed and maintained correctly. Perhaps we get a bit burned out listening to one more person complain about a motor when it is the purchasing dealer's fault that it was not put together the way it should have been. Many times it is the customer's fault by insisting on incompatible products, or cheap ones that are not up to the task. It all boils down to not just "You get what you pay for" but more like
"You DON'T get what you DON'T pay for!"
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
I sure do love all of you guys. BUT its a shame that this got out of hand as it did. Yes hes a new BBC member. Albeit a new one. He is also an Evinrude customer that is frustrated because of problems with a superior motor. Let me tell you I AM NOT bashing E-tec. I sure as hell wish I had one. He is frustrated because it is expected to not have problems. As far as the bashing of Rusty goes that is not how he meant it and you guys got defensive and laid into him to quick. Now we have lost a BBC member that was beat up for no reason. I am not a moderator and don't make calls. In my opinion, and I know it doesn't matter, an IM should have been sent to this guy before everyone at once jumped on him. I am a PROUD Stratos and Proud Evinrude owner. I have talked to and met some of you and glad to know all of you from here. I just think we don't need to be like the other boards. We can defend each other without it happening this way.![]()
First, Steven's not a new BBC member; he's been a member for over 530 days.......just hasn't made all that many posts.![]()
Second, I've read this thread and see where it got out of whack; Steven's post was most likely taken out of context (as I also took it), and it appeared that he was complaining to Moderators that spend a LOT of their time and expertise helping out for free on this forum (and other forums).
Seahorse was simply asking if the mechanics were certified; was definitely not implying to Steven that it was his fault that he went to uncertified mechanics (as Steven took Seahorse's post.)
I can certainly understand frustration but you need to pick your words carefully when you're coming on a forum and asking for help from those that are qualified (and willing) to help you.![]()
Understood and will stay out of posts that I am not involved with!!![]()