Nevermind, I figured out the studs go in the back of the powerpack and the plate holds the wires in the front of the cowling.
Nevermind, I figured out the studs go in the back of the powerpack and the plate holds the wires in the front of the cowling.
Everything is going together great. the toughest part was lifting the powerhead back onto the rest of the motor. I'm not sure how much is weighs, but it was a challenge for me and my son to hold it there and place it on the studs slowly. I would recommend a hoist.
Hope everything works out for you.
Last edited by bamabassmaster; 05-07-2012 at 12:14 PM.
1995 Javelin 400TE w/ 2015 Honda 225
2001 War Eagle 648 w/ 2001 Honda 50 jet
Well everything is back together and I am going to try starting it up tomorrow (after mom's day festivities of course).
I'm more than a little concerned that I really cannot say exactly what caused the meltdown. I took the #2 carb apart and did not find anything clogged. I checked the jets in all of the carbs and here is what I found for the high speed and intermediate jets:
#1 65D 20
#2 67D 20
#3 65D 20
#4 65D 23
#5 65D 23
#6 65D 23
#2 already has the bigger high speed jet, but why do #1, 2 and 3 have a smaller intermediate jet?
As far as the VRO system goes, I have not taken it apart because I feel it went lean and was not an oiling issue. Anyone think otherwise??
Really can't answer the ? about the intermediates, someone may have changed them playing around. If you want order 3 23's and put them in. Make sure the drain plugs are the new style with the "tit" on them to keep the HS orifices seated. Don't take the VRO apart, you are just asking for troubles.Originally Posted by jay's snake
Ok, I'll leave the VRO alone. What's the best way to tell if it's working correctly?
The procedure is in the service manual. But for quick ref, mix portable tank 50:1 hook to fuel side. Connect a 10" section of clear tubing to oil side. Make marks on the tube every 1/2" for 4" and hold it so there is a U in it fill with OB oil to the top mark and start motor. Oil should drop by X amount of motor pulses. Could have a clogged Pulse limiter fitting if the oil doesn't drop in the number of pulses. Pretty sure it is 6-8 pulses and the level should drop 3". Shop is closed today so I'm going off memory on the test but it is in the fuel section Chapter 2 of the manual.
Here's the latest update....
It turns over great, but could not get it to start. I did get it to kick a few times, but I suspect the plugs may be fouled. I squirted some 2 stroke oil in the spark plug holes before I installed the plugs to give it a little extra lubrication, but I may have fouled the plugs. I also mixed the fuel with 50:1 oil in addition to the VRO for break-in as per the book.
One concern I have is the #2 carb is spitting out fuel out of the pipe in the venturi. I took it apart thinking the float is sticking open, but it kept doing it after I put it back together. It's got to be the float or the needle valve right?
Yep. Primer bulb firm. Motor level. Hit choke twice, kill switch on, Vrooommmm two cranks. To prove your point you can move them. Should follow the carb. If not bad reed.
Here's the latest.....
I found I only have a spark in cylinders 2 and 4. What the heck?? I know it's been three years since it last ran, but do coils get old?
I attempted to check the voltage on the red wires at the coils, but I don't have a peak reading voltmeter. My voltmeter did register some pulses in voltage.
Flywheel key missing? Recheck your connections from the timer base to the power pack, also make sure the two sets of brown wires from the stator to the power pack didn't get crossed. Easy to do with all the wires in there and tight quarters to work in. Pull the pack off, but leave it connected and make sure the ground is hooked up then crank it up and check spark.
How do you know which pair of brown wires plugs into which connector? They are all the same color.
I eliminated the coils by substitution. It's got to be the power pack , stator or wiring.
making some progress....
I think one set of brown wires may have been pulled loose.
Now, the only cylinders not firing are the bottom two (5 & 6).
I tried re-plugging all the connectors together, but it made no difference.
What is the common connection that would make these two cylinders not fire??
Timer base. If you really examine the PP leads and clean the wires it is pretty evident where they go. This is always a good time to check the manual. The port leads have a difference trace than the starboard side. Brown/orange and brown/white. From stator to pack, they need to match up with the TB leads.
Any idea if there is a connection that would affect cylinders 5 and 6?
Need to put a light on them and see when they fire.
5 and 6 aren't firing at all. I can hold the leads and crank the motor...absolutely nothing and I verifed the coils are OK.
My best guess is one of the pins in one of those big plugs is not making good contact.
I didn't put anything on the terminals when I plugged the connectors back together. Should I have put some electrical grease on them?
5 and 6 are two different circuits on the power pack and coils. Try disconnecting the shift interrupt switch and see if the fire comes back. I think you have something hooked up wrong.
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!YAAAAYYYYYYYY!!!!!
I took all of the connectors apart at the powerpack and cleaned the connections with alcohol and then assembled everything with dielectric grease.
Finally, all plugs are firing and the engine roared to life for the first time in 3 years. I think I killed all the mosquitoes in the neighborhood, but after a while it quit smoking so heavily and sounds pretty good.
I had taken those connectors apart 2 or 3 times already, but apparently they just were not making good contact somewhere.
I have some more work to do before it's ready for the lake, but I'm really pumped that it's running.
Thank you Championman and others who have helped me through all the tough spots with your excellent advice!!!!!!!!!!!!
Huzzzzahh!
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