Spark issue on 96 Intruder 150 HP

[StratosDadRI]

Last 2 times out 05 had a issue with no spark. I traced it down to a bad ignition/Key switch. Today put the new one in no spark. Read a old post about no spark on a fast strike so I removed the cover on the back to expose the 2 -6 pin connectors and opened and closed all pins looked fine no corrosion and also removed the wire clip that holds a a white and brown 2 wire connector, sensor? Turned the key and starts fine. Are these 6 wire connectors a known culprit ?
and if anyone know the wire diagram for them.

We all know electrical issues are the worst and the reason for grey/no hair I hate to spend $$$$ for power pak and all the other possibilites.

I just bought a manual but UPS is slow...

Thanks

[t-bone]

I have similar issues with my 96 FastStrike. Somtimes it quits on warmup, other times on takeoff, once at WOT, thought I blew it up, I wait 5 min. and it will start and most times it won't happen again all day. Mods here seem to think its the pack, when they start to go out they will work one minute and not the next. Don't know how to test pack for power to the pack when this happens. I going to try a used pack when ice is gone here to see that fixes it. Keep us posted, I like to know what you find out.

[StratosDadRI]

Mine quit one time last year on hole shot than I played with all the wires and it was fine all day. Next time out no spark to start again played with the key switch and kill switch then it was fine all day. I realy though it was the kill switch cause it would run with the clip on or off then sometimes neither!! Well I just bought the Evinrude manual so I have something to go by.

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StratosDadRI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last 2 times out 05 had a issue with no spark. I traced it down to a bad ignition/Key switch. Today put the new one in no spark. Read a old post about no spark on a fast strike so I removed the cover on the back to expose the 2 -6 pin connectors and opened and closed all pins looked fine no corrosion and also removed the wire clip that holds a a white and brown 2 wire connector, sensor? Turned the key and starts fine. Are these 6 wire connectors a known culprit ?
and if anyone know the wire diagram for them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Back in the early days of the MWS wiring harness and Deutsch connectors which were introduced in 1996, there have been some problems with the black/yellow pins arcing thru carbon tracks in the connector shell. These were caused by the installer or rigger not using dialectric grease on the Deutsch connectors like the factory suggested. The black/yellow kill wire carries from 250 to 500 volts from the powerpack to the keyswitch. The high voltage could arc inside the connector in the presence of moisture.

In severe cases, the carbon tracked connector and the arc'ed pin would have to be replaced. Most of the time, just removing the orange retainer and packing the area with dialectric grease would cure the problem.

[StratosDadRI]

Thanks, one question Does than the kill switch ground out the spark like a metal arm we use to push down on a sparkplug to stop a lawnmower or does the kill switch stop 12v from getting to the powerpack??? But the answer you gave will be addressed with some d-grease for sure..... I was also told if battery voltage is below 11v no spark.. but battery is charged and strong.. and shows 12.6 before cranking..

[ChampioNman]

12 V goes to ground and kills the PP and motor, The battery voltage only applies to DFI or E-tec motors,

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12 V goes to ground and kills the PP and motor, The battery voltage only applies to DFI or E-tec motors,</TD></TR></TABLE>


Well, CM must have had a few more brews or 'toonies again, if the 12V wire is grounded, then you kill the 20 amp fuse, not the motor. The igntion system turns off on carbureted motors when the black/yellow wire is shorted to ground, not the 12 Volts.
the black/yellow is a wire connected to the large capacitor inside the power pack. When the b/y wire is grounded out, the capacitor voltage instantly drops to zero, and the motor stops.

[StratosDadRI]

Could be the reason Special Brownies! I do read his as it shorts the spark voltage to ground. So those black/yellow wires which connect in to the key switch harness arent carrying 12V.

[StratosDadRI]

Mr S. Horse

Well before I attempted the new jackplate I put the motor on the muffs and no spark. So after that attempt 2 weeks ago it fired all day and later that night before I took of the muffs it was cold but fired instantiously. Today I unplugged the connectors fuses everything no spark. I'm going to take apart the 6 pin connectors tomorrow am and try the d-grease fix. Do I need to pull apart the connectors? any direction on this will help. Power Pak next???

[rudetech1]

Have some one turn the engine over, if it doesn't start, tap on the power pack. It sound lame , but it works. If the scr are sticking, the vibration knocke=s them loose. I diagnose at least 2 packs a week this way, one today on a 120 looper. The good thing is you do not need any equipment to do it. You just need to remove the power pack covers.

[StratosDadRI]

Ok can you elaborate on what is the scr? and if they are sticking how do I fix it? thanks very much im pulling my hair out on this one if i do need a pak best price on a quality one?

[ChampioNman]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StratosDadRI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Could be the reason Special Brownies! I do read his as it shorts the spark voltage to ground. So those black/yellow wires which connect in to the key switch harness arent carrying 12V. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotta love coccanut in them , and walnuts, at least you got my drift

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StratosDadRI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So those black/yellow wires which connect in to the key switch harness arent carrying 12V. </TD></TR></TABLE>


The black-yellow wire to the keyswitch carries the full stator output voltage that is used to charge the capacitor inside the power pack. It will vary from about 200 to 450 volts, depending on rpm and the engine model. That kind of voltage can arc intermittently in the circuit and cause all kinds of problems.

[StratosDadRI]

I'm going to give it one more shot today. I will try and disconnect the BLK/Yel from the motor side to eliminate any posible short to ground back to the keyswitch. What is the SCR rudetech is talking about and what is your option on getting a new power pack if needed? dealer going rate? is there a better one that OEM?

Thanks again!!!!

[rudetech1]

A SCR is a silicon controled relay, it is the "gate" that allows current to go from the capacitor to the individual cylinders. There is a main" gate" and 6 cylinder"gates". When the main gate sticks, you have no voltage, also happens when the capacitor fails, when the individual 'gate fails you lose 1,2,3,or more cylinders. The gates are triggered from the timer base or the OIS sensor. OIS is Optical ignition sensor found on 25,35 3 cylinder engines, 90,115,150,175 60 degree looper engines. It is a very reliable ignition system.

[StratosDadRI]

Thanks but just got in from working on it. Tapped them pretty good, no good then I used some information from another guy. Put d-grease in all the 6 pin connectors no good, Checked the resistance on the pack org/orng? was suppose to be 1000 ohns i got 500 on a digital meter tried the resistanace brn/brn? on the pack was suppose to be 100 ohns I got 50 then I disconnectd the yellows to the rectifier the second the key turned it fired " for 1 second" then nothing, I'm stumped looks like i'll try a pack and a pickup.

Any help on a place to get a oem pack resaonable?

[ChampioNman]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudetech1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> A SCR is a silicon controled relay, it is the "gate" that allows current to go from the capacitor to the individual cylinders. There is a main" gate" and 6 cylinder"gates". When the main gate sticks, you have no voltage, also happens when the capacitor fails, when the individual 'gate fails you lose 1,2,3,or more cylinders. The gates are triggered from the timer base or the OIS sensor. OIS is Optical ignition sensor found on 25,35 3 cylinder engines, 90,115,150,175 60 degree looper engines. It is a very reliable ignition system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually a SCR is a Silicon controlled Rectifier. Would be hard to fit a realy in that PP.

Not on the Brownies yet