What do you mean by flexible? Are you saying to bend it to make the turn?
What do you mean by flexible? Are you saying to bend it to make the turn?
I bought some new punches and bent the tip of one to bend around the corner. I'm able to get a pretty good smack on it with the hammer, but this thing is stuck. I may be mushrooming the end of the pin now. I'm thinking about grinding the head of the pin down flat to eliminate the possible mushrooming.
This is kicking my butt.
If you put the flywheel nut back on the crankshaft and use either a rawhide mallet or a rubber mallet and give the nut a few whacks it should pop the front have of the case off. Just make sure you have the bolts out of the top and bottom of the bearing housings. You can always get a new one their cheap. Make sure all the bolts are out of the front half of the CC.
I finally had to use a hacksaw and cut that pin in half. The part left in the front half came out fine, but the half is still stuck in the block side. Hopefully the machine shop can either get it out or drill it out and install a dowel pin.
Surprisingly, the crankshaft and bearings look fine, eventhough they were contaminated by metal from the #2 piston.
My plan is to re-sleeve one cylinder and hone the others. Buy one new piston and re-use 5 pistons. Replace all rings and one head. Re-use all bearings. Put it all back together with new gaskets. What do you think??
The sleeve you need if you are going to keep the stock bore is LA119. Yep they can clean the hole out no problem for the locating pin. Make sure you keep the bottom half of the connecting rod with its mate. I mark them with a permanent marker so they don't get switched. They MUST match back up when re-assembling that is mandatory!!
Do you have any recommendations for parts suppliers?
Are there brands that I should stay away from?
Ok Championman,
The block is back from the machine shop. I had one sleeve installed and one bored. The others were honed and they look good. It's ready to go back together.
The manual says to assemble with special OMC assembly lube. Does it really matter or can I just use engine oil?
Any other tidbits of wisdom??
You need GEL SEAL when putting the halves together. I coat the rod bearings, pistons and cylinder walls and wrist pins with TCW-3 oil. Locktite blue on the upper and lower bearing bolts.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Apply Loquic primer to the surface of the crank case before you apply the Gel Seal.
Make sure when you install the connecting rods that the hole for the oil port is facing up and the dots on the rods are facing up towards the flywheel.
Torque the end cap bearings gradually and rotate the crank and check for smoothness. As you rotate with the heads on you will hear a gentle whoop whoop whoop as you rotate the crankshaft.
Have you fixed the original issue that caused it to blow?
Championman...
Is GEL SEAL and LOQUIC primer available at auto parts stores or only at the OMC dealer?
Also, I think the manual said to use some type of special alignment tool to install the rod caps. Doesn't it align already if you tighten the caps evenly?
Witchdoctor....
no, I haven't found the original problem, but I will defintely clean the carbs before I start it up. My best guess is it leaned out due to a clogged passage in the number 2 carb.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by jayÂs snake »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Championman...
Is GEL SEAL and LOQUIC primer available at auto parts stores or only at the OMC dealer?
Also, I think the manual said to use some type of special alignment tool to install the rod caps. Doesn't it align already if you tighten the caps evenly?
Witchdoctor....
no, I haven't found the original problem, but I will defintely clean the carbs before I start it up. My best guess is it leaned out due to a clogged passage in the number 2 carb.</td></tr></table>
I would Highly recommend replacing all the small fuel lines to the carbs while you have it apart and the main fuel line also. When I redid mine last year I was surprised at the amount of dirt in them.
Stroker DC21 Mercury 250 XB
Good advise Jason.
Gel Seal and Loquic primer are proprietary products of BRP. So you have to get them from a dealer or a parts distributor.
When you took the motor apart I hope you kept the end caps and the connecting rods togehter as a set. When the connecting rod is made it is poured as one piece rod then frozen and broken but stays as a matched pair. Yes it is strongly suggested to use the alignment tool when assembling. If you don't keep them together when assembling and have them cocked or mis-matched it could lead to premature bearing failure and bad JuJu.
When you put them together install the end cap bolts finger tight
Yes, I kept the end caps on the right rods. (I have rebuilt many automobile engines, just not any boat motors until now).
I looked at the rod caps tonight and I can see how they could be installed out of alignment. I see why an alignment tool would be helpful, but hopefully I can just hold them straight while I tighten them.
Does it matter where the ends of the bearings are oriented?
Not the bearings but the end caps are mandatory.
Ok, I have the powerhead back together and it went together fine.
Question... what is the purpose of the small hoses that are plugged into the block all over?
I noticed one of the fittings where the hoses connect seems to be plugged. How critical is it?
Reciculation hoses and it is very important to have proper flow and idle characteristics.
I noticed the Pulse Limiter Fitting blows both ways. Isn't this supposed to have a check valve in it? Would this affect the operation of the VRO system?
Also, i used vacuum line to replace the recirculation hoses. I was having a hard time finding the right size. Will that work or does it have to be fuel line?
Thanks!
They have changed the design for the pulse limiter now so it does go both ways. The vacuum hose will work fine for that purpose.
Championman, any idea where this plate and these studs go?
Last edited by jay's snake; 05-06-2012 at 10:54 PM.
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