TXP 4 O/T USERS!

[Hydrilla Gear]

Okay guys, I got a box stock 29 that i can't seem to sell. I might as well have it worked and need some advise...

Running the 300x with 1.62's. I have tried a 28" with dual PVS holes and still had a slow hole shot when fishing load/livwell/fuel is applied.

Whats this i hear about shavein a little off the hub side to allow some more vent... What exactly is being done? Does it work? etc.

My thinking is to have the dual PVS holes in the barral and then shave the hub end of the barral. Adjust accordingly via PVS plugs. I need another fishing prop. Is Mark workin the ears on these things as well or basically leaving them stock?

OR is it not worth it and just hold onto it until it sells. Kinda feel this may end up being too stiff of a wheel for me to spin...

lets go guys, i want to see if the o/t can rival the 28" Bravo i have...

[JJS]

I had the same problem. I had a ring put on the front. I tired different holes plugged/unplugged. Nothing seemed to help the hole shot. The ring helped alot. It slips alittle coming out but it bites now. where as before it wouldn't. I have heard of shaving the front of it also. Best prop I have run so far.

[2500]

JSS is yours a Merc or Yam, I've always seem to put a ring on Yam and E-Tec's around here to get proper cav on holeshot with small bore hubs. I was told over the last few years that exhaust dumps:
MERC --------60% thru hub and 40% exhaust ports (3 LT)
Yam----------75----25
E-Tec--------80---20
maybe wrong but it seems true to me.

I would think that with S/M and 1:62 gears on your (HYDRILLA) that it would have plenty of slip. I will say here lately when someone gets a 4-O/T that they need to drop 1 or even 2 pitches. I turn a Hydro 27 but have a (TALL) 25 4-O/T that is about same R/s
as far as tuning I would talk with Performance propeller.

[2100greenmonster]

If you look at the prop toward the end that goes into the lower unit. It has a small reduction in diameter. Just cut that end off. Or a little at a time would be better. Get with Adam he'll be able to tell you more.

[1outlaw]

Cut the barrel off that sits inside the case!!!!!......Either that or a door stop???

[Bryan Berrong]

I have been working with a 26 with the pvs holes. With all the holes open it would bog so I came home got out the drill and went to work. I put 4 7/16's holes in it and with Me, Passenger All my fishing tackle and the live well full and 3/4 tank of fuel it came out of the hole pretty good. The motor was 1 1/2 above the pad. It's not Bravo quick but it's quicker than most and it carries the boat better and I think will be a little faster on the top. Rich if you want to try this one let me know, Call me...........................Bryan

[21XDC]

I think you need a 27 ot4 and maybe slot the first set of pvs holes like a yamaha prop.

[Largemouthlou]

Have it worked for a Stroker!!

[jowens]

There is a guy on fastbass looking for one Rich. PM me your info and the price on it and i'll get yall hooked up on it.

[rocketmanjp]

Rich,

I just bought a 28 and had 7/8" slots cut in it initially. It still bogged on initial throttle, so we cut the front of the barrel off all the way to the step. It now revs to 3K initially, then revs to 4k plus a few seconds later. It still isn't quite as fast out as my worked 30 Bravo, but it is close. I definately like everything else about it better than the Bravo, except loading on the trailer. It still won't break loose for that. 21 RDC w/300XS 1.62 SM HEAVILY LOADED.

JP

[Bryan]

Like this....as Mike said

[2500]

surely they balance prop after the cuts, I always have mine balanced even out of the box ones. It is surprising how many Merc and other brands are close to being balanced but far from being true and dead-on

[Hydrilla Gear]

After reading your guys replies I think the TXP may be something i am interested in but i think this 29" is just too steep to even start with. I run a 28" Bravo and have run a 30 Bravo worked for a yamaha. The 30 came out fine with a light load but bogged with a load and had slow pick-up.

When i ran the 28" That i sold to Storm22 I ran it with a full load and fuel. In the morning temps/humidity the prop was fine. Once it got into the high 80's the prop suffered on hole shot. Would bog as the nose rose then once it broke over it would cavitate like a 2-stroke blender.

I think with this new found barral shave that a 28" may be the right choice.

Thanks for your help guys


Storm22 just called and said i could run the 28 again and if i like it he will trade for my 29.

Thanks to all

[Hydrilla Gear]

If this 28" is close then i will keep it and shave the barral end. What do you guys think is a good starting point? 1/8" off??

[FlippinCrazy]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hydrilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If this 28" is close then i will keep it and shave the barral end. What do you guys think is a good starting point? 1/8" off??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would start with an 1/8". I cut the whole recessed part that sits down inside the gearase off, and with a heavy 2 man load and mine revs over 5K when trying to break over. The holeshot is better than it was stock, but it still isn't anything close to my 29 Hydro. I have a 28 with no PVS holes too, so the only venting that mine gets is from removing the front part of the barrel.

[JJS]

Merc 250 xb.

[Cooney]

Hydrilla, I'm running a 1:62 and I have a 25P OT4, now keep in mind that I only have a 250XS. Anyway, I have no holes on mine but I do have a Carbon fiber foil and it takes off out of the hole very well, and this is on a 21XDC. I did not trim anything off the bell.They say that a TXP you would have to figure a 29p that you have as a 30p due to lack of flex in the blades. JMO

[SUSHII]

I rode in Coonis boat today and yesterday and let me tell you his setup is there. The holeshot was incredible with me and him full tank of gas loaded to fish. Keep in mind I am 350 and he's probably 220. That's alotta ass. To still have that kinda holeshot. Impressive for sure

[Strokerdean]

Are you cutting the flare end or the front end? I have been working on a Hydro 28p q4x and a 30p q4x, have opened up the front set of holes and also been cutting the flare off of the 30p to improve hole shot. Does cutting the front end help it vent better or what is the purpose. I run a Stroker not a Bullet, would that make a diff on which end to cut.

[21XDC]

The txp props dont have a flared barrel. They are talking about cutting off the lab seal. I dont see the need if you vent them more through holes/slots etc. Cant put a cav ring on once thats done.