surge brakes ???

[javelinbill]

i get a jerk when i take off and again when i stop.. can these things be rebuilt???iv looked at mine and cant seem to figure out how to take it apart.. help???? thanks

[HaulinBass]

You nay have air in your line. Check fluid level first and for leaks.

[javelinbill]

fluid is full and no leaks

[HaulinBass]

Have you bled them?

[javelinbill]

no i havnt.. is there a way without backing the trailer

[HaulinBass]

Takes two people or one very creative one.

[javelinbill]

???????????? i know how to bleed brakes but how do i work the actuator

[HaulinBass]

I use a long sturdy flat screw driver against the actuator like a fulcrum. Do it as you would a car brake. When you pump it a few times, have someone loosen the relief valve on the caliper. Repeat process as you would a car brake.

[javelinbill]

thanks

[bassnman81]

Could be the shock absorber in the unit. It is replaceable. check out http://www.ufpnet.com Hope this helps

[HaulinBass]

Could be the absorber. Bleed em first before parts swapping though. Dot III is cheaper.

[DABS]

On the bottom of the actuator you will see where the brake release lever hangs down, just behind the ball socket. Just to the rear of the L shaped release lever is an access hole for a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver until you hit the pushrod, then angle it toward the front of the trailer, about a 45 deg angle and you will find the end of the pushrod. Hold up on the brake release lever with one hand and push the pushrod back toward the trailer by simply cranking your wrist. You can pump up the brakes this way very easily. Once you get a few strokes in, let go of the release bracket and stroke the pushrod once more. It should lock in place. Go to the rear and open the bleeder on the caliper and relieve the pressure and any air, close it, go back up front and push up further on the release bracket and it will again spring up and down, starting the process all over until bled. Remember to lower the nose of the trailer before bleeding. Air bubbles travel up and will naturally migrate toward the rear, aiding in a quick bleed.

[haha]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by DABS &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">On the bottom of the actuator you will see where the brake release lever hangs down, just behind the ball socket. Just to the rear of the L shaped release lever is an access hole for a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver until you hit the pushrod, then angle it toward the front of the trailer, about a 45 deg angle and you will find the end of the pushrod. Hold up on the brake release lever with one hand and push the pushrod back toward the trailer by simply cranking your wrist. You can pump up the brakes this way very easily. Once you get a few strokes in, let go of the release bracket and stroke the pushrod once more. It should lock in place. Go to the rear and open the bleeder on the caliper and relieve the pressure and any air, close it, go back up front and push up further on the release bracket and it will again spring up and down, starting the process all over until bled. Remember to lower the nose of the trailer before bleeding. Air bubbles travel up and will naturally migrate toward the rear, aiding in a quick bleed.</td></tr></table>

This should be pinned.

[javelinbill]

thanks even i understand that

[Jeff Hahn]

It could also be that there is play in your draw bar. Over time, the pin will wear an egg shaped hole in the draw bar. So, it will clank every time you take off from a dead stop. Check this first, as it's much less a pain in the butt to fix compared to fixing the actuator.