I have a 1998 Hydrasport 205 that I just replaced the trailer tires on. I noticed the right side sits 3/4 of an inch lower than the left side. Not that much of a deal except the tire is that much closer to the fender. Is there an adjustment to get it level again? Thanks
If it's a UFP torsion, You take out the bolt that holds the spindle arm on the splines, Turn it to your needs, slip back on the splines and bolt it back up. But you might have a failing axle bushing.
Marks Props 317-398-9294, 1850 East 225 South, Shelbyville, Indiana 46176 propellerman59@gmail.com http://www.marksprops.com/index.html
1998 was most likely a Henschen axle. They are welded and there is no adjustment.
It is a UFP trailer with rubber torsion bars. It also says Easy Loader. Could the torsion bar be wearing out. Is it a hard job to change? I guess the bolt for the spindle is behind the drum. Need the boat for a tournament this weekend. Do these rubber torsion bar set ups ever break completely?
Took the trailer on a 600 mile round trip for a tournament. When I got home I measured the axle height, same as before. It didn't get any lower. Will this just break if I keep using it or will it slowly get worse? Thinking about going to a dual axle. Thanks
Ok, if you want to test the torsion, remove the wheel and place a jack under the spindle end of the trailing arm. Watch carefully as you lift the trailing arm to see if there is any movement in the arm before it starts lifting the trailer. If the trailer starts moving immediately, the rubber cords are worn out and you are simply using the inner square tube against the outer one. If you examine the outside of the trailing arm, you will most likely see a square weld where the inner axle shaft has been welded to the trailing arm. Once worn out, they cannot be repaired. The entire axle assembly will have to be replaced. Trailers built by UFP after 2001-2002 use a splined shaft with removeable components. Axles built prior are welded and cannot be repaired.
Thanks Dabs. Is there any chance that it will give up completely and drag on the road. The tires seem to have good toe and camber. Is there a point where it would stop against itself before it hits the ground? I'm gonna either get a new axle or another trailer ( dual axle this time). Thanks again
Your force would be upwards, so little chance of it hitting the ground. Most likely it would hit the fender first. Most likely it has worked through one of the cords and will hold out a little longer. You can shoot some pic's and email me @ warrantytn@ufpnet.com. I will need to see the bracket from under the trailer. You will need to know: Gross axle weight rating, Hub face to hub face dimensions, and outside of bracket to outside of bracket dimension. Shoot me an email and I will send you a diagram of dimensions needed.
Hey Dabs, is there still any kind of warrranty on this axle being it's a 1998. Also, with the axle brackets being welded to the frame, do the new ones bolt up with a different bracket or weld on again? What kind of money ( ball park) are we looking at? Thanks
There was a two year warranty on them when new. The bracket welded to the trailer should bolt right up to a new one, providing the bracket on the frame, and the bracket on the axle are bolted together. Since the new trailing arms are 1 1/2" shorter than the original 6" ones, they should use a retrofit bracket to keep the axle centered in the fender. Cost is relative to whether it has brakes, and axle weight rating etc. I don't have a price sheet here but I think it's under $400 for 5 lug with disc brakes.
Reply With Quote
.jpg)