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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Keller
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    113

    Replacing Hub/Rotor Assy

    I have a marine master single axle with UFP DB-42 set up. Need to replace one of the rotor assy and I have never taken them off before so I have a couple of rookie questions

    1) When I remove the hub nut and try to pull the rotor off should it come off easily or are the bearing cones lighty pressed onto the spindle. If so whats the best way to get them off.

    2) When I put them back on if the bearing cones are light press can I pull them up snug by using the spindle nut and just tighten until they seat and then back off just a little.

    3) I'm going to replace brake pads on both sides as long as I'm at it - there seems to be three bolts on the back side - 2 hold the cover on that covers the front and back pads and it looks like one bolt maybe holds on the whole brake assy. Which should I remove to get the old rotor off and replace the pads?

    Any and all tips to help me not screw this up and wind up costing more is greatly appreciated.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

  2. Banned
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Aintry, KY
    Posts
    25,974
    #2

    Re: Replacing Hub/Rotor Assy (MikeW07)

    You have to remove the pads and pad cover before you can remove the rotor/hub.

    Remove the bolts for the cover over the pads and then remove the pads.

    The hub and rotor should slide off very easy after you've removed the nut. The bearings will just drop out.

    As for the bearing cones, I just lightly tapped them out with a screwdriver and a hammer. I then used a bearing seating kit to seat the new ones.
    Here's where you can get a kit:

    http://www.harborfreightusa.co...yName=
    I found coupons and got the kit for around $15.

    Dennis at UFP should be able to help you out with this too. I would definitely check with him for parts!


  3. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Tonto Basin, AZ
    Posts
    1,800
    #3

    Re: Replacing Hub/Rotor Assy (MikeW07)

    If the rotors are grooved much, get them turned at just about any auto parts store - 10 bucks each around here.

    On my trailer, two bolts hold the brake calipers on, it might be three on yours. When you put them back on, put lock-tite on the bolts and torque to 55 ft-lbs.

    You'll probably lose most of the bake fluid doing this and will have to bleed the lines. The post at

    http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread?id=539206

    shows a useful tool.
    So many honey-dos . . . . . so little motivation

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Keller
    Posts
    113
    #4

    Re: Replacing Hub/Rotor Assy (MikeW07)

    Thanks everyone - I'm only changing rotors and pads so I don't think I'll have to bleed the lines since I'm not planning on taking that apart. I had one of the seals go bad and trashed one side so I have new rotors for both sides coming and I'm switching both sides to grease instead of oil (grease is a little more forgiving when seals fail). First time I had it apart (in the dark at the ramp everything covered with oil) I took out the two bolts that held the cover over the pads but based on the service manual it says to remove the one bolt holding the brake caliper to the axle bracket. Which is best and easiest?

    Man this gets expensive based on new rotor, seals, bearings and all the tools I now know you need to do this (that I didn't have when it failed of course).

    I'll just put new bearings and seals in the one good old rotor and carry it for a spare.

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Winchester, TN
    Posts
    1,523
    #5

    Re: Replacing Hub/Rotor Assy (MikeW07)

    The single bolt in the middle removes the caliper. The 2 that flank it are the slider pin bolts and should not be removed.

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