Trailer Brake Line question...

[brolland]

I have a 1995 tandem axle trailer and when I purchased this boat/trailer, it would slam forward during stopping and do the same thing when accelerating from a stopped position. A frind suggested I check the brake fluid level.....I did and it was empty!!! I filled it with brake fluid and now I guess I need to try to bleed the lines....problem is, I don't know how to do this on a trailer. It's a Stratos Trail trailer...

Can anyone help me with this or is it best left to the pro's to do?
Thanks.....

[dannyp]

You can do it,, its just like doing a car,,, grab a buddy and a six pack(all though there are ways of doing it by yourself for a first timer I recommend a buddy)

You are going to want to start with the brake farthest away from the master cylinder. Which on your tandem axle will be the passenger (vehicle) side. Fill up the master cylinder with fluid and pump the the system up with a large screwdriver (see you trailer manual on where to insert the screwdriver or do a google search) or a heavy duty 2x4 on the trailer actuator. Get it as firm as you can and while holding pressure have your buddy loosen the bleeder screw located on top of the brake caliper. DO NOT RELEASE YOUR PRESSURE until he tightens the bleeder screw back down. Repeat this procedure until fluid comes out of the bleeder screw with NO AIR BUBBLES. (put a clear tube on the end of the screw and the open end into a jar.) Next wheel will be on the same axle, opposite side, Then back over to the front axle, Passenger(Vehicle) side and finish up on the front axle Driver(vehicle)side, Also keep and eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and top off every few bleeds. Get a couple of large bottles of fluid as you don't want to run out. Also another tip is to keep the master cylinder lower then the brake calipers. Better to push air up then to try to push air down. Your end result is to get the actuator as firm as possible,,, you want it to where it is very difficult to push in by hand. Do'nt be alarmed that when you test drive you get the slamming effect again, just go back and continue bleeding,,,, it took me at least 3 try's.

[western angler]

You also have a Damper Shock Absorber in the tongue that may be bad. After bleeding the breaks and checking for leaks. You should check the adjustment if you have drum brakes. As stated before you may still get the slamming and you need to determine if the brakes need more bleeding or the shock is bad.

[JavRenegade20]

go to sears and get yourself a break bleeder tool.... I think its like 30 dollars. makes it a one man job and there is not much sweating involved.... It lets you suck the fluid thru the lines rather than having to compress the actuator....

[JOHN202]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JavRenegade20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to sears and get yourself a break bleeder tool.... I think its like 30 dollars. makes it a one man job and there is not much sweating involved.... It lets you suck the fluid thru the lines rather than having to compress the actuator....</TD></TR></TABLE>

+ 1 and also not near as messy

JOHN202

[dannyp]

Yeah but if you have the tool then you cant tell your buddy to bring the beer