Throttle Cable gone bad?

[barbarian]

Can a throttle cable just go bad? When I had the boat out yesterday, I noticed my hot foot would only return about 1/2 way to idle. I had use my foot to pull it back. I just went outside and unhooked the cable from the hot foot and the hot foot itself works great. My cable makes a loud friction noise as I move it in and out. It sticks about 1/2 way. Just curious because it was working perfectly just last week.

[Triton19x2]

I had that happen in my '98 TR19. Mechanic said it could have stuck wide open so I was lucky to find it when I did.

[ssimpala71]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by barbarian &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Can a throttle cable just go bad? When I had the boat out yesterday, I noticed my hot foot would only return about 1/2 way to idle. I had use my foot to pull it back. I just went outside and unhooked the cable from the hot foot and the hot foot itself works great. My cable makes a loud friction noise as I move it in and out. It sticks about 1/2 way. Just curious because it was working perfectly just last week.</td></tr></table>Yes they can just go bad. And thats usually what you would feel is friction resistance. If you have a rigging hose on the boat with any sharp bends, thats usually what causes a cable to either kink or fail. See if there is any way you can remove or ease any hard bends when you go to replace it. Also dont forget to look where it comes out of the boat and goes to the pedal. They can get bends there too from your foot inadvertently hitting it when you get in!

[barbarian]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by ssimpala71 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Yes they can just go bad. And thats usually what you would feel is friction resistance. If you have a rigging hose on the boat with any sharp bends, thats usually what causes a cable to either kink or fail. See if there is any way you can remove or ease any hard bends when you go to replace it. Also dont forget to look where it comes out of the boat and goes to the pedal. They can get bends there too from your foot inadvertently hitting it when you get in! </td></tr></table>

Thanks. It is a straight shot coming to the pedal, but yes my rigging tube does have a good curve in it.

[EuropeanAM]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by ssimpala71 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Yes they can just go bad. And thats usually what you would feel is friction resistance. If you have a rigging hose on the boat with any sharp bends, thats usually what causes a cable to either kink or fail. See if there is any way you can remove or ease any hard bends when you go to replace it. Also dont forget to look where it comes out of the boat and goes to the pedal. They can get bends there too from your foot inadvertently hitting it when you get in! </td></tr></table>

+1

Also- when replacing the throttle cable, be SURE to utilize High-Grade cable. These cables will have a GRAY jacket... with teflon-coated guide and core wire. Much less resistance in the cable... and they're not NEARLY as proned to such problems.

Your hotfoot likely has a Gen-1 cable (evidenced by a "black plastic ball-link connection" at the HOTFOOT end of the cable).

[Ranger519VS]

I see that T-H is now marketing a top loaded Hotfoot. The cable comes vertically down into the top of the pedal allowing a straighter run for the cable and a gentler radius bend for less friction. Depending on your boat configuration. (Most bass boats would benefit from this)

[barbarian]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by EuropeanAM &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

+1

Your hotfoot likely has a Gen-1 cable (evidenced by a "black plastic ball-link connection" at the HOTFOOT end of the cable). </td></tr></table>

I know it is very hard for anybody to believe, but you are right - again.

[EuropeanAM]

Dennis- we can get you a top-quality OEM cable for that (Gen-1).... all we'd need to know is the LENGTH of the cable.

Part number (usually including length) is often printed on the plastic jacket, somewhere on the cable.

[barbarian]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by EuropeanAM &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Dennis- we can get you a top-quality OEM cable for that (Gen-1).... all we'd need to know is the LENGTH of the cable.

Part number (usually including length) is often printed on the plastic jacket, somewhere on the cable. :wink


</td></tr></table>

Don, do they come in standard lengths or exact lengths? I was hoping I could get a general measurement while it is still hooked up so I can still use it until the replacement comes in or do I have to unhook and take out to get an exact measurement? Thanks again. I am also going to climb under there tomorrow to make sure I didn't bind it accidentally while installing my LSS unit and hydraulic jackplate a couple of weeks ago. The timing of this problem with the other 2 jobs that required some movement of wires in that back area has me curious to at least ensure the throttle cable hasn't been put in a bind somehow accidentally.

[EuropeanAM]

The cables come in 1' length increments (ie: 10, 11, 12, 13 and so on).

You'll want to be relatively sure on the length... in some cases, you "may" be able to accomodate an extra foot (but you sure can't STRETCH them).

Speaking of stretching.... you mentioned a jackplate. Was additional setback added in the process (potentially making the cable too short)?

[barbarian]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by EuropeanAM &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Speaking of stretching.... you mentioned a jackplate. Was additional setback added in the process (potentially making the cable too short)?

</td></tr></table>

No, actually went from a 10" to an 8".