Ordered my CCR reeds from Don, anyone for pointers on install

[HDETERS]

I am sure I will call Don a few times when I install these reeds, but does anyone have any tips for me before I get into this. I do have the factory service manual, and will start reading it before the reeds get here so I know my way thru the steps well before I jump into it. I will also be sending off the injectors to Don to clean and check while I am in there. Thanks ahead of time.

[FirefighterIan]

Me too!!

[Gamblinman]

If you have the time and inclination, you could lap the reed cages.

Make sure and use threadlock on the screws.


Gman

[rchavis]

What is lapping the reed cages ? Plan on changing minds and been reading also how to replace them .

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

Hello...first,thanks for supporting CCMS Reeds,and the dealers who handle them.
The basics of reed replacement are simple,and usually can be handled by most folks with basic mechanical skills.Usually you will need to replace some gaskets also,this varies engine to engine.The most critical points to be concerned with are to keep from losing hardware and parts in the crankcase of the motor,and when you install the new reeds on the reed blocks be sure all the parts,screws,stops,and cages are clean and dry.
It's usually a good idea to lap the cages(reed blocks) before installing the new reeds.This is done by gently sanding the reed surface by laying a sheet of wet/dry 300-400 grit emery paper on a known flat surface,and wet the paper with a light lubricant or soapy water,and performing a figure 8 motion with the reed cage.Any imperfections(high spots) will cause a noticeable drag,as soon as the drag is gone you're finished.Realize that you don't have to sand the whole surface,just remove any high spots that would prevent the reeds from closing effectively.
After careful washing and drying,assemble the reeds to the cages using a small amount of blue or red locktite on the screws,notice most reeds have oversized mounting holes to allow the reed leaf to move into the position that provides the best and most even coverage of the cage windows,a good footprint margin around each window is important for a good seal and long life.
When you're satisfied with the fit,snug the screws...remember the new reeds are somewhat flexible and compressable,and can be distorted by over-tightening.Snug the screws,and let the locktite do it's work.
Once the new reeds are mounted on the cages,re-mount the cages on the manifold or reed plate,again using locktite,and re-assymbly the motor.
Note...some motors(DFI's in particular)may need an oil system purge and prime,before starting.Refer to the service Manuel for your particular motor,or a known trustworthy expert,to be sure the motor is ready for service,and all necessary procedures and adjustments are done.You need to own or have access to a service manuel for your motor!
This is a brief overview to changing out the reeds,feel free to call the shop if you need further information,thanks again,Chris Carson,CCMS Custom Reeds.

[EuropeanAM]

I <u>DEFINITELY</u> recommend that an OEM Service Manual be utilized as your guide... it will provide you with instruction, torque specifications (and patterns), as well as guidance on the appropriate Loctite products to utilize on various hardware.

Lapping the reed cages is CRITICAL, to ensure that the cage surface is true, and flat. Depending on your reed cage type, 300-400 grit paper may be TOO COARSE (I do not recommend utilizing anything lower than 600 grit on "rubber coated" reed cages).

On aluminum cages, 300-400 grit (wet and SOAKED paper) can be utilized. Recommend following up with a finer grit (600-800 grit) for a smooth finish.

Careful fitting of the reeds to the cage is critical to ensure a good and proper seal. Reeds must be aligned side-to-side, and end-to-end, to ensure that they are square, each petal has a good sealing surface, and NO REEDS HANG OFF THE END OF THE CAGE. That last part is VERY critical... as many of our engines have only 1/8" clearance between the reed cage and crank.

Blue liquid loctite is usually suitable. A little goes a LONG way... apply enough (but don't be sloppy, as it can weep into the seam between the reed and cage). I'll often lay out the needed screws for one reed petal on a paper towel, apply one drop to each screw, then fit the reeds and screws (excess loctite ends up in the towel, helping to prevent excessive application).

If time permits... I hope to be doing several video series, so I'll add this one to the "wish list".

[HDETERS]

Thanks everyone. Any pictures or video would be great. I saw somewhere to use a piece of glass as a flat surface for lapping the cages. Also, do I use the factory torque numbers for fitting the reeds to the cages or less since they are not metal like the factory ones?

[EuropeanAM]

I recommend utilizing the OEM specified torque settings.

[Nitro 929]

Good post, I too just sent my injectors to Don for service and going to install CCR reeds my self. I have the factory manual, but didn`t know about the lapping of the cages. 1st time post, but have been reading the posts daily for sometime now. Great Site!

[Ranger519VS]

Laying your wet n dry paper on a sheet of glass really works well. Lots of water with just a bit of dish washing liquid.
I'd glue the paper with some 3M77 spray adhesive to keep it in place. Spray it on and let it almost dry before laying it on the glass. Then you will be able to pull it up easily later.

[Gamblinman]

I can almost guarantee that if you have rubber coated reed cages, they ain't flat. I have yet to find one.

I do mine exactly like derick881 describes.


Gman