Can I test my live well with the boat out of water?

[Canadian Bass Man]

I bought a used Ranger at the end of last year. I got out on it a couple times before winter. The livewell wasn't filling/draining/recirculating properly. Can i fill it with a hose & run it? can i duplicate the action of it filling? obviously it will drain my starting battery but i can always charge it. Any ideas?
thx.
CB

[red314]

Welcome to the site


You should be able to fill the livewell from the deck lid hole and see if the valve holds and run the recirculate option. I replaced mine a few years ago and they do not work that great so try an not get to upset if they do not work the best.

[red314]

The ranger forum has information on how the livewell works. If you need more info try the flowrite site.

[bassdad]

Well there are a few things....does the pump work? Are the flappers worn in the valve? Does the "Fill / Recirc / Empty" cable work OK? Are any of the lines blocked? I ended up taking everything out, replacing the Flow-Rite valve, cleaning the pump, lithium grease on the cable, cleaning out the "black" [read disgusting] lines.as well as new connections.......and then tried again......I guess you can fill the well and run the system, but if it is an older boat, chances are the stuff is all original and worn out.......

[haveme1]

Sure ! Play with it. As long as you don't burn em up running dry a long time.

[Canadian Bass Man]

Hey guys, I poured water into the well & it ran straight out. I checked the valve & it seemed to be between positions. I manually assisted putting it into "recirc" & it held water. The switch seems real stiff. (this is with no power, though that shouldnt matter, should it?).
So I decided to pull out the valve & have a look. When I took the cable off it moved easily. The switch seemed to move easily too without the cable. hmmm.
So I have taken the 2 hoses off but I have a question about the white plastic pipe connection. Is it held with teflon tape or glue? Can I just twist it off? Or do I need to do something first?
Plumbing is NOT my excpertise!
See the pictures if it helps...





Thanks!

[bassdad]

Just so I can get my head around this....

1. Do I see: 1 valve, 2x 700gph Rule pumps, 1 x manual bilge pump and 1x automatic bilge pump? If so, does the flapper valve run to both pumps via a "T" connection? [which is how it looks in pic#3]. Are you filling two livewells or just one? Do you have only one inlet in the stern?

2. The white plastic pipe is threaded into the pump - and probably has teflon/plumbers tape on it. If you remove the black hoses, it should come off - it will be tight. It seems as though the valve may be OK and its your cable that should be greased. Either that or the cable is trapped or at the wrong angle. Also, the Rule pump can screw directly into the valve [check the flow-rite website...] However, if you've gone this far, you might just want to replace that valve anyway. I think I would also cut all the ties off and open up the area. It will allow you to to trim wires/hoses and replace/grease the connectors. My replacement valve arrived today [from Flow-Rite] and is of much better quality that the original- with flappers that work!!

Dave

[Canadian Bass Man]

Hey Dave! I'm in Peterborough but have family on Eagle Lake near Dryden! I hope to visit them in June for some Bass & Walleye fishing!
My boat is a 2006 Ranger X20 I bought last fall.
I had done what you suggested, ie cut the zip ties & it helped a lot.
I am only filling one divided well. 1 pump is for recirc, 1 for auto, I believe.
Yes only one inlet.
You are right about most of what you said, the valve does run to both pumps via a T. The white plastic pipe doesn't look threaded as it is right to the shoulder & there is <u>no"Bolt" style shoulders on either the pump or the white pipe</u>. Though I see on Flow-rite's website the new ones are threaded for sure. Did you use a wrench to get your's off? Did you buy your's online from them? Any more thoughts?
Thanks for the help,
Bryn.

[red314]

From what I see from the pic is that the 2 white elbows are glued together in the middle but the ends are threaded. The valve should have female threads and the grey should be male. You can use thread tape which will help seal the threads or rector seal #5 works also but it will be hard to get apart in the future and I am unsure if it will harm the fish.

I will be up to Eagle lake in May on the 22nd threw the 26th for the opener

[red314]

I have the new style valves and you will need to place them in recirc to keep the water out fill will let water in and empty will also. In fill the water will not empty when you run on plane. The same with recirc. Empty is just straight open so the well will fill around the water line and empty on plane like if the plug was out of the boat.

[Canadian Bass Man]

Thanks. Where are you staying on Eagle, Red?

[red314]

Pine beach lodge

I am so looking forward to the trip and this year I am bringing my boat

[bassdad]

Hi Bryn: The existing valve has a female thread [it looks like a Flow-Rite RCV 75] and should unscrew with a bit of "help" [no wrench needed]. I replaced my valve as the body showed signs of wear and just replacing the flappers was not an option. I bought a V2 from Flow-Rite - total $44 shipped to the door. Easy install with one line. I have no experience with a "T" set up and two pumps - Can Tire or Home Depot carry a lot of plastic/abs 3/4 in fittings so you should be able to do a re-fit.

[Canadian Bass Man]

Hey BD. I got the valve off, thanks. Ordered a new one.
Will be back on here if it doesn't go back together properly!

[bassdad]

Did it screw off? If so, install is not a problem - use plumbers tape on the thread for a watertight fit. Look through the valve you took off and you'll probably see daylight as the flappers will have worn and twisted. Clean out the tubes while they're off and clean the bilge pump to ger the crud out.....in fact, it's a good idea to inspect/clean/ replace as necessary while your messing around in the bilge.........most of all, have fun.....

[Canadian Bass Man]

Hey BD, it did screw off. I just didn't want to reef on it until I was sure it was threaded. The old valve was in brutal shape! I got my new one today too! What service. I will check out the other stuff too - good idea.
Hey I also sent you an instant message from here last night but I don't know if I did it right. I may be going fishing on Eagle Lake in June & wondered if you know if the bass will likely be prespawn between June 6 & 12? I have never fished prespawn & was thinking this might be the proper time of year for that. If you can aswer that question, then I can ask for some tips!!!

[bassdad]

Bryn: Will depend on the weather / water temp - most likely will be just post spawn and not as agressive as during the spawn - the bass are agressive in defense of the spawn area but this also tires them. Shallower water is a good place to start. If they are in transition, the deeper water on Eagle Lake may still be too cold for bait fish and so the bass will move out of the shallows and start to cruise. It can happen in days....you might catch them in the shallows one day and then in two to three days......nada......they've moved. As for dates, full moon periods often mean a drop in temp, also watch for cold fronts as the fishing will literally stop. Oh, by the way, take pics of the pump/bilge!! And if you're coming up to Eagle, maybe call/e-mail and swing by for a Tim's

[bassdad]

Bryn: Here's a few pics of my bilge area - just finished pump / valve install:
Pulled the boat out with seats/hatches off:



Used bedliner for the bilge and mounted fuel/water separater, new valve, cleaned the pipes and tidied up:







I closed off the front livewell but have left all the plumbing in place - in case I ever want to use it! Now I just have to finish the carpet, install Keelshield, organise the rod lockers, install graphics...etc...etc....