02 optimax upper oil reservoir

[findley1202]

I have an 02 225 optimax. The upper oil reservoir keeps getting a little low. About once every five times I take the boat out I have to pull the cowling off and remove the upper reservoir cap. Then the oil will refill and I can replace the cap. It is alway just abarely low enough for the sensor to be exposed. I have check the tank and replaced the gaskets and it seems to be air tight. Any Ideas?

[EuropeanAM]

In cases of "mysterious oil level drop", where ALL potential air leaks HAVE BEEN RULED OUT (preferably via a PRESSURE TEST of the system):

REPLACE BOTH the Crankcase Pressure Check Valve AND the "Tee" shaped check valve below the engine mounted oil tank.

Crankcase Pressure Check Valve Part# 8781051
"Tee" Check Valve below oil tank: Part# 424254
"Radius" head Sta-Straps for hoses: Part# 816311T (at least 3 required)

[findley1202]

How hard are both of those to replace? Are there any tricks that ineed to know?

[golfpro307]

Dons the man!!! I had a tiny crack in my oil tank cap hairline on my boat not the motor in which case caused my oil tank on the motor 01 225 Opti not to prime or fill up all the way! If that helps any.

[EuropeanAM]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by findley1202 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">How hard are both of those to replace? Are there any tricks that ineed to know?</td></tr></table>

Crankcase fitting:

Located below the starter, screwed into the STARBOARD side of the crankcase front-half. Cut the tie-strap, remove the pressure hose. Unscrew the old fitting, screw the new fitting in snug (do not overtighten), install hose, and install new tie-wrap TIGHT to secure hose.

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Tee-shaped check valve:

Cut tie straps, remove hoses ONE AT A TIME while installing on new fitting in the same orientation. Install TWO tie-wraps (tight) to retain hoses. Note: one nipple INTENTIONALLY left open on the "tee".

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Final Bleeding:

See the following post for bleeding instructions to remove air from the lines:

http://www.bbcboards.net/zerot...esent

[findley1202]

I replaced both of those and hopfully fixed the problem. If not the only line, let to replace is the line that pumps the oil up to the reservoir. It doesn't appear to have any leaks. What is the purpose of that small white piece in the line and I was also wondering why that line is spliced and if I replace it can I just use one solid line from the tank to that tee.

[EuropeanAM]

That "white piece" is an inline oil filter... placed there as the oil injection system's "last defense" against any debris that might have been dumped into the remote oil tank. I would not recommend removing it completely (though it would be fine to replace it with a new one).

[findley1202]

I was still having the problem after replacing those valves. Someone suggested replacing the oil pickup and the black cap that feeds the oil up. I dont see any cracks but it may be leaking and I dont know it.

[EuropeanAM]

I would suggest cleaning the pickup screen in the oil tank (it's on the end of the pickup tube). They sometimes get clogged if the oil is contaminated (even slightly) with water, or low-quality oil has been used.

If a problem is not found here, the next step is to pressure test the system. This is done with a GEARCASE PRESSURE TESTER- remove the PRESSURE line from the crankcase pressure fitting, install the pressure tester into the line. Pump the pressure tester up to 8 psi... and use a spray bottle with soapy-water to spray down lines, connections, clamps, caps, etc. to look for leaks.

If it holds 8 psi for 15 minutes... there's likely no leaks. Try bleeding the upper tank with the pressure at 8 psi, to see if oil flows to upper tank.

If it DOES NOT... you have a restriction somewhere between the REMOTE TANK oil level and the upper tank (pickup tube, line, line filter, etc).