when i went to the lake this weekend i noticed that my tach was not working right
it works when the motor is at an idle but when you get in the throttle it just drops to 0 anyone have any ideas i really dont like to run a lot with no tach
when i went to the lake this weekend i noticed that my tach was not working right
it works when the motor is at an idle but when you get in the throttle it just drops to 0 anyone have any ideas i really dont like to run a lot with no tach
In my case it was the rectifier. Did you notice if the starter battery seemed less than fully charged.
The sequence of events...
flakey tach
starter battery craps in the middle of the lake
try to charge starter battery after I get home
replace battery, rectifier, and some burnt wiring
Mine did the exact same thing this weekend and I have a brand new battery. Hope somebody knows whats going on. Checked the dash and didn't see any loose connections at the tach. Other guages work fine.
Your brand new battery will be toast if the rectifier goes short to ground. It will discharge the battery very quickly and you will find some burnt wiring. You will be replacing all three. Get a good volt meter and check your charging volage. Tachs are cheaper than rectifiers.
C
i havent checked my batt but i ran it for 4 days with no problems at all
In that case it's prolly just a bad tach!
Got an on board charger? Disconnect the leads to the Cranking battery, recharge the battery with a manual charger, turn on one of your DF's to show the battery voltage or use a meter. Make sure you use Stainless steel nylon insert nuts with stainless steel lock washers on your batteries. Start the motor on the muffs and recheck the battery with the meter and see if the regulator/rectifier is putting out. Should be at least 12.2 at idle and no more than 14.0 at WFO. The last test should not be done on muffs (WFO), but an throttle increase should show an increase in voltage. Any difference in H20 pressure when this started? The R/R is H20 cooled and a decrease in cooling will cause them to fail. Easy way to check though is with a good known working tach. CM
You can check the tach signal at the back of the tach with a volt meter set to DC volts, connect the red meter lead to the terminal with the gray lead attached, connect the black meter lead to the terminal with the black lead attached, start the motor, with water of course, at idle speed the volt meter should show 9 volts.
If the volt meter does not show 9 volts you need a rectifier.
I would suggest if you dont get 9 volts you disconnect the motor battery cables at the battery until you can have the rectifier replaced, they have a slight problem with causing Fires on the motor.
thanks guys ill do some checkin tonight and see what i can find
i take it the rectifier is under the black plastic cover on the back side of the motor right?
hey rusty just out of courisoty what does a rectifier cost?
96 johnson venom 200
and are they hard to replace?
ill be doin some checkin tonight when i get home to see what kinda voltage i have
ok rusty and CM hee is what i found out tonight
CM-hooked voltmeter up with motor runnin on water and checked voltage 12.2 at idle, best i got at any rpm was 13.0.when it did this at the lake here was no drop in h2o press that i saw.
RUSTY- checked voltage on the plug for the tach i got 10.0v
i took he black cover off just to make sure there was no burnt wires or anything and didnt find any.
on the tach plug there are 8 numbered wires
1-purple
2-black
3-grey
4-brown/yellow chaser
5-brown/black chaser
6-brown
7-brown/orange chaser
8-brown/blue chaser
i kinda figured that the brown wires are for the alarm lights and the black is ground and grey is power and the purple tach signal but i dunno
could just the tach be bad?
my brother in law has a charger boat thats the same year and has a 200 rude vind
could i just borrow his tach and plug it in and see if its just the tach?
thanks,luke
I did not look at your siggy to see that yours is a 1996 motor, you have a System Check tach, the test wont work on your tach, you have to substitute a know good tach, Sorry.
Borrow the tach.
ok guys i borrowed a system check tach and hooked it up and its doin he same thing
does this mean i need a rectifier?
With the power pack off check the reg/rectifier and see if it has the purple and grey wires the new regs do not have the purple wire. CM
If I was a betting man I would say the regulator/rectifier was the problem.
While you are getting ready to replace the regulator (the new one does not use the purple wire, just tape it off) inspect the black coils on the stator underneath the flywheel. Chances are they are dripping black plastic insulation (which could "glue" your timer base spark advance) and if so, it is best to change it also. Chances are you had wing nuts on your battery (batteries) at one time, or loose connections, even momentarily.
Remove the blow off valve on the backside of your motor and replace the plastic "nipple" with a 1997 or later one that is grooved to bleed air from the water gallery which also cools your regulator. The cheap way to accomplish the same thing is to just drill a 1/16" hole in the middle of the "nipple" to act as an air bleed.
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