Handy tool for changing gear lube.

[poe]

I made one of these several years ago and I use it all the time. Beats the heck out of pumping gear lube into a big engine gear case by hand. Takes maybe 2 minutes to fill your gear box on a 250 HP Engine. Although it will work on any size engine. I call it a "Crazy Filler" The main item you need to make it work is an air compressor. The size of the compressor doesn't matter as you only need 10 to 20 PSI to make COLD gear lube flow. But you do need a compressor. Other than that you can build the complete "Crazy Filler" for about $50 or less. About the price of one lube change at your dealers.

If anyone is interested email me for further instructions on parts and how to install. I think the picture I have posted below pretty much tells the whole story.

http://i222.photobucket.com/al...r.jpg

It sure does make changing gear lube easy especially if your like me and fish all winter and the temps drop down to below freezing on you when you finally decide its time to check the gear lube for water.

GL, Brian

[Carlos H]

very nice!

[poe]

Thanks Carlos .... from the reception I guess its not something many want.

Guess the wife was right.. Not many work on their own equipment anymore. I thought since the economy was so bad it might help a few keep some $$$ in their pockets rather than pay a dealer or someone to do this job. I know a lot of guys say they use the hand pumps and that's OK but this is so much easier. Heck I'd go out and buy me a cheap air compressor and build this if I was young and planned on having a boat for years to come. It would completely pay for itself compressor and all in 2 years.

Oh well.. That's what I get for thinking

[Nick2000gmc]

yeah interesting idea, although I am usually not in a hurry to change my lower, like to take my time. I do have one question are you putting the fluid in the main chamber. Maybe a video would work better to show how it works

[gjudkins]

Excellent idea! The drawing is first class also.

If you know the amount of grease for your engine, could one omit the blow gun and just put the coupler fitting in the cap ? This is assuming a regulator on the compressor.

where do you get the foot fitting that takes the place of the plug?

If one did not have access to a compressor and had all day, you could just fill by gravity.

[sealer]

buy the hand pump @ wally world for $8 - $9. fairly quick, cheaper, & easier.
dennis

[1kickerfish]

The $8 Wally World hand pump has worked great for me for many years.

[poe]

Nick... Thanks.... Its not that I'm in a hurry to fill my lower unit. I'm retired. I usually have at least two and sometimes three engines for different bass boats that I'm doing at the same time. The Crazy Filler just makes it a lot easier on my thumbs. It would take me nearly an hour to fill all three motors with a hand pump. Another nice thing about the Crazy Filler is its a very even flow you get when putting the lube in the gear case. No air pockets.

Yes the gear lube goes in the main PVC body. You unscrew the threaded cap off the clean out and pour the gear lube in there then put the cap back on. It can be stored in there also. Its every bit as clean and air free in there as a partial bottle of gear lube would be.

Sorry I have no video but I do have a shopping list and assembly instructions if your interested.

gjudkins.. Thanks for the compliments. You could put the male air hose connector on the cap I guess but I wouldn't recommend it. #1 if you forgot to turn your regulator down you could be putting 100 or more PSI of air into the Crazy filler and even though it has one open end it might be dangerous. Besides it would blow gear lube everywhere out the vent hole. #2 the blow gun is precise when it comes to filling your lower unit. You can cut it off for any reason. A phone call.. when the lube starts coming out the vent or when your wife hollers LOL.

I took the clear plastic hose off with the lower unit fitting of my old hand pump. All the fittings are the same for all motors that I've run across anyway but Wal-Marts & Cabela's sell Lower Unit Fittings Reg: $6.99 Sale: $4.88 That is the one you screw into your drain hole on your lower unit to fill. You would have to buy the clear plastic hose separately if you did that though.

10/4 on the gravity. That would work also *smile

sealer and kicker-fish... I agree with you that wal-marts hand pump is cheaper, but sealer.. the hand pump is not easier. Its usually around freezing when I do mine. I made my Crazy Filler so I can do all three motors with one filling of gear lube. If you have a big engine you will not only be pumping for a long time but you will also have to stop and change bottles in order to do more than one engine if there any size.

Personally I don't care how anyone does their engine/engines. I'm not trying to sell this. I just built a better mouse trap and I thought I'd share the idea. Use it or don't use it. It makes no difference to me. I thought it might help a few people out and save some money that take there motors to dealers and pay $50 to $100 to have this simple job done. Sure they can do it with a hand pump but my way is easier and faster and the cost is about the same as one trip to the dealer to have the same job done.

Your call, Brian

[mossboss]

can you repost the picture, it is not coming up

[poe]

Here ya go mossboss. Its a modified picture. Hope you can understand my ramblings.

http://i222.photobucket.com/al...1.jpg

[poe]

Just for the fun of it. Here is the shopping list and instructions on how I made mine.

Here is the grocery list of things to buy at your local home center to make the Crazy Filler.

PVC section:
1. 4" schedule 40 PVC pipe. The shortest you can get over 12". LOL
2. 4" threaded cleanout with cap (fits over the 4" PVC pipe and is glued on).
3. 4" flat or domed slip cap. I prefer the domed cap as it allows the lube to flow to the bottom of the Crazy Filler for easier clean up. (Cap fits over the 4" PVC pipe and is glued on)
4. One small can of PVC glue.

Air compressor section:
5. One blowgun. Cheapest you can find looks similar to one in drawing. Usually between $5 and $8.
6. One 1/4" rigid hose barb. (Make sure this fits your clear plastic hose)
7. One male air hose quick connect that fits Air IN threads in the blowgun.

Plumbing section:
8. One 1" long threaded nipple to fit Air OUT side of blowgun. (Remove rubber tip on blowgun and check hole size and threads to make sure you have the right size nipple).
9. One roll of plumbers tape

Hardware section:
10 Two 3/4" long flat head screws
11 One rigid hose barb. (Make sure this fits your clear plastic hose) Same as in #6. Sometimes found in either section.

Three other things you will need are the clear plastic hose with the lower unit fitting. You will need one light wire coat hanger or something of your choice to make the hanger out of. Also for cheap insurance of no leaks pick up two new seals for your Vent and Drain plugs. About $0.65 each. You can remove the clear plastic hose from your hand pump and use it instead of buying a new one. If you do this make sure you check the hose size with the rigid hose barb and make sure they are the proper size. You may need a bigger or smaller rigid hose barb. Also check the nipple that screws in the blowgun to make sure it is the correct size and thread type. The air hose connector should be the same size and threads as the ones in the blowgun. If you need the connector that fits your lower unit drain plug Cabelas and Wal-Mart and others carry them.

Making the Crazy Filler

#1. Cut the PVC pipe 12" long for the main body. (Holds approximately 80 oz.) Enough for two large engines.
#2. After making sure you have the proper size nipples and rigid hose barb, drill & thread the center of the caps.
#3. Wrap the nipple with plumbers tape and thread into the blow gun.
#4. Wrap the other end of the nipple in plumbers tape and thread into the cap for the 4" cleanout.
#5. Wrap the threads of the rigid hose barb with plumber’s tape and screw into the flat or domed cap.
#6. Glue both the caps on their respective ends... It doesn't matter right now which end you glue them too.
#7. Push the clear plastic hose on the rigid hose barb and secure it.
#8. Drill and screw the ¾” flat head screws into the Crazy Filler where the clean out is glued to the main body.
#9. Cut and bend an old coat hanger around the two ¾” flat head screws to make a hanger for your Crazy Filler.

Walla... You now have a Crazy Filler.

HAVE FUN. Can also be used to fill differentials on cars and trucks.

Do NOT USE HIGH PRESSURE WHEN FILLING YOUR GEARCASE. Its not needed. 10 to 20lbs of air pressure is sufficient for filling your gear case.

[FishNutz]

I like it and it works like a dream. Thanks

[Charger]

I'd like to see the pic of that.

[poe]

FishNutz... Your welcome and thanks for trying it.. I'm glad you like it. Congrats.

Charger... I'll try to remember to take a pic of mine today.

[poe]

Charger.. Here is a pic for you. I'd have taken a few more with the threaded cap off where the lube goes in etc but my batteries were low. Hope this helps.

http://i222.photobucket.com/al...1.jpg

On the far left is the clear plastic hose attached to the rigid hose barb that has been threaded into the domed slip cap. This hose runs to the lower unit connector. Its the one with the orange cap over the threads. On the far right is the clear plastic hose from the blowgun. Note the end closest to the main body of the blowgun has the air compressor connection. The air flows through the blow gun down the clear plastic hose. through the main body and out the slip cap into the clear plastic hose on the other end to the lower unit connection. When I made mine I did this different than the instructions say to do. The instructions eliminate one step in the building. In the instructions the blow gun is threaded right into the clean-out cap. It really makes no difference how you do it. I did it this way because it was a modification from the original Crazy Filler. Made it easier to do. On the left side is the 4" PVC slip cap that is glued on to the 4" x 12" main body of the Crazy Filler. On the right side is the 4" clean-out with threaded cap. The threaded cap is removed to add gear lube. Above and below the main body are two narrow white lines... These are the hanger. There are fastened to the 3/4" flat head screws that are screwed into the clean-out.

Holler if you have any questions, Brian

[Charger]

Thanks Brian, that looks great and easy to make!

[poe]

Thanks Charger... and yes its much easier to make than it is to tell how to make... Faster too.. I think I put mine together in about 30 to 40 minutes.

[dirtmonkey]

So the air pressure pushes on the gear lube? I was expecting some sort of "ram" or pusher disc inside it to seal off the air chamber... it just seemed to me that the air would mix with the lube and cause bubbles or aereation...

[dirtmonkey]

actually I use a similar setup for filling batteries, just gravity fed 2 ltr coke bottle with barbed cap and hose

[poe]

No sir. I've had no problems with aeration... Possibly because I use low air pressure. I'm sure if I threw 100 PSI at it it would boil the lube so to speak. All you need is enough PSI for a good even flow.

I see your point and a ram may be a good idea but I haven't found it necessary. I feel if other users use at the recommended PSI they will have no problems either. When I built this I was looking for a simple idea of how to make filling three gear cases easier.... This was the easiest solution I could come up with for a reasonable price. Not saying its the best but it does work like a charm.