Alarm 99% oil remaining

[ZO6]

Coming back in today ran at 5000rpm intermittently to 5900rpm for 5 mi. Everything was great 67mph top. Motor temp 124 degrees - water 89.9. 15+psi water pressure when aired out. Slowed to idle for "no wake" zone. Idled for 500 yds all well. Adjusted jack plate and trim when accelerating. Alarm went off on Smartcraft slowed to idle. Checked it said "Oil remaining 99%" Cleared. Cut engine off restarted and alarm came back. Idled to ramp.

I did add oil before using but it was not 1/2 way down. Checked for good seal on oil tank seemed OK. Have not checked tank on motor.

This a 2005 250 XS ser. OT999026
Any ideas?

[EuropeanAM]

Try bleeding the ENGINE MOUNTED oil tank. See the following post:

http://www.bbcboards.net/zerot...esent

[shermsmarine]

The alarm your getting is for low oil in the eng. mounted reservoir. It must be completely full try bleeding it as Don mentioned.

[ZO6]

The reservoir on the engine appeared to be full. However, I followed the procedure and opened the reservoir with the engine idling until oil started to ooze out of the reservoir. I let it run for about 5-8 seconds to be sure. Didi not notice any bubbles.

Turned engine off and restarted same alarms from SmartCraft. 4 beeps. Turned off repeated procedure. Same result 4 beeps. Am I supposed to clear SmartCraft or is there an issue with the sensor, check valve or filter? Thanks to all


Modified by ZO6 at 3:19 PM 9/23/2010

[rangerguy]

Have you check for water in the fuel filter. That is the 4 beeps also. If it is not that you might want to read this thread.
http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread?id=586413

[ZO6]

The alarm on SmartCraft still says 99% oil remaining. Are you suggesting changing the gas filter on board boat and on the engine?

[rangerguy]

I'm sorry, I was thinking 4 beeps and what causes it and forgot your smartcraft gage reads 99% oil remaining. You need to read the link I posted above because that is what happen to me and my 2002 225 Optimax.

[ZO6]

Thanks RangerRick. I went to the link and i and I am now thinking I may need to replace the onboard tank with the sensor. Any other ideas? Thanks

[rangerguy]

I would check it out the way the guy that started the link did. You have to see your sensor is in the "Open" state before you know where to go from here. Your sensor should be "Close" when the tank is full. If it shows open with a Ohm meter at the little tank full, then I'd say your sensor is bad.

Open = No Continuity

Closed = Continuity

[ZO6]

Rangerguy, I am planning to order the entire tank. I am under the impression the tank comes with the sensor. Can you confirm?

[shermsmarine]

A new oil tank does come with the sensor but you can also replace just the sensor in your tank..The reason for a new tank is if the float inside the tank isn't working properly causing the issue vs. the sensor..

[rangerguy]

Sherm is the man and yes you can replace just the sensor, but like he said, if the float is bad which is built into the tank, you will have to replace the whole tank which comes with a new sensor. That was my problem, the float in the tank had broken and wouldn't move and I had to replace the whole tank. Got my tank and sensor from Sherm. Call him, he will treat you right.

[ZO6]

You are right Rangerguy! Sherm is the man! He spent a lot of time with me on the phone today discussing my options and when we arrived at my best plan he is expediting to get me my parts at a great price. I really, really appreciate the great customer service. Now if I can do what we discussed!

[ZO6]

One final post..... Was able to follow the great instructions from Sherm and Don Weed. Critical points in my view were:

1: Removal of the oil from the old tank down to about 1/2 in with the aid of an IV kit and 35 ml syringe I bought from the local vet supply house. ( Cost of syringe and IV kit were under $5.00 including tax) The small tube and the cut off on the tube supplied with the kit allowed oil removal from the old tank into a clean used coffee can and placement back into the new tank very easily and without making a big mess.
2. Remove the lower left cowling.
3: After cutting the old tie and disconnecting the oil line, clamp the oil line from the old tank off Very, Very Lightly taking care to just to hold it in place and not get air in the line when adding the new tank.
4. Add new oil to the new tank. My syringe and IV tube and cutoff greatly aided this process and helped me keep it clean.. Sherm and Don's tip to put about 1 in of oil in the new tank worked perfectly.
5: Be sure to buy radiused cable ties when you order the tank. They do not come with the new tank. Local auto houses here had never heard of them.

Alarms are gone and all is well with the 250 XS again.
Again, Many thanks to Sherm and Don. Without their help this project would not have been a success.