May be heading to Mr. Don's place soon.

[Reelsore]

2007 250 Pro XS ser # 1B446096

This past Saturday it ran fine all day, I was able to open her up to about 77 mph.
Sunday however was different. I got up runnin about 75 mph about 5900 rpm's and the motor just shut off. No sputter, no alarms, no alarms on the merc monitor, 24+ psi water pressure, 1/2 tank fuel, absolutely no warning it just shut down. After checking what I could on the water (bulb firm, fuses, battery connections, etc...), it fired right back up. Got up and running bout 72 mph and it did it again. Not a good feeling running 70+ mph and losing all power and coming to a rapid stop, bout ate the dash. After the second time, I just eased around bout 65 mph with no problems. So as the heading suggested, I may need to go see Mr. Don and/or any suggestions at what may have caused this, I am all ears.

[esdbass]

Fuel line? Is it ethanol resistant ?

[EuropeanAM]

If the loss of power was "immediate" (and not at all gradual).... it's more than likely electrical in nature.

You might want to check the ignition switch harness connections at the engine. Some engines of this vintage utilize a 1' adapter harness (adapting from the older cannon-style plug to the newer 14 pin harness). A loose connection at the cannon end of the adapter can cause your complaint (there should be a metal clamp that bridges this connection to prevent vibration).

We'd be glad to get you in, if you'd like.

[Reelsore]

I'll check the harness this evening when I get home. Thanks Mr. Don.
If this isn't it, I'll probably come see you.

[Reelsore]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by esdbass &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Fuel line? Is it ethanol resistant ?</td></tr></table>

All has been replaced about 4 months ago, bought from Don along with new water pump kit. Also got new plugs gap per Don's specs. Cleaned out the filter at the lower block going to the air compressor and changed foot oil. I do all of the preventive maitainance regularity that I know of because I hate being stranded out on the water. Any other ideas are welcomed. Thanks

[esdbass]

Looks like you got that angle covered and Don's assisting you as we speak

[Reelsore]

I believe this is the connector you are referring to.




It is tight if this is the correct connector.

[EuropeanAM]

The connector I was referring to would be about 6-12" away from that one (on the same wire loom, down under the intake).

Yours may, or may not have this adapter.

[Reelsore]

It is a solid wire going into the wire loom. Could the connection be in there? I'll check this evening when I get home.

[EuropeanAM]

Follow that wire loom toward the cowling rigging connector.

Don't worry about looking "inside" the loom.

If there are no "adapter plugs" noted.... you do not have the adapter in question.

[Reelsore]

Well in that case, no I do not have that particular cable. I guess I need to get up there. The earliest it could be is 2-3 weeks for me. Will not be running that motor anytime soon because shrimp season will open this weekend. I'll be in my tin boat.

[EuropeanAM]

Just give us a holler (preferably a couple days in advance), and we'll set up a day to get it checked for you.

[Reelsore]

Thank you. Is there anything else I could check? Also I assume you'll be able to see the motor go from 5900 rpm's to zero on the freeze frame or something when I bring it to you?

[EuropeanAM]

What we "do, or do not" see on the Freeze Frame History will help to narrow down the problem. Some items would register, others (such as an ignition switch or harness problem), likely will not (the PCM simply perceives that the key was turned off).

Items you could check on your own:

-Load test battery, clean and check terminal connections (engine cable on first, remaining lugs largest to smallest, finish off with a Stainless Locknut).

-Check ignition switch for loose wires, or "strange" feel of the switch (electrical tests also possible, but more in depth).

-Check kill switch wiring to verify no loose or bare wires (electrical tests also possible, but more in depth).

That's about all you can do on your own, without getting it on the CDS....