1993 Procraft Restore

[reelnmn]

I have a great looking 93 Procraft that has been in my family for 15 years. Unfortunately this December I found a water leak that has been around a long time.





I've decided to do a full restore, replace the transom, floor, and any other rotten wood I encounter. My issue right now is removing the cap. I cut the tabbing in the front around the livewell, rod lockers, and center compartment. The dual consoles are cut free as well as the seating areas. I also found tabbing at the two rear compartments. Now comes the splashwell.





I've chipped and grinded most of the epoxy away. I'm able to get a 4" putty knife most of the way around the splashwell, but it still won't budge. I've made two A frames with come alongs to help lift the cap off. Even with it positioned directly over the splashwell and a car jack positioned on the inside I can't get this thing to budge.



Also I while trying to remove the splashwell material I ran into some really strong white material. I'm not sure if this is glue or some kind of strengthening material. Does it need to come out for the cap to pop off? Here's pictures:

Area I'm working on marked "A"


Appears to be the same material just under the fiberglass on the transom (below the red line):



I've been at this splashwell for two weeks and haven't made any progress. Any tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Chris

[Jwengerd]

ok where the splash well is there is 2" flat of fiberglass/gel coat on top of the actually wood transom cut this out then you can get a chisel/ pry bar and drive it between the top cap and the wood transom this will allow the top cap to "pop" free. They epoxy the topcap to the transom with "bondo glue stuff?".

[Jwengerd]

After looking at your pics theres not alot of room to chisel from the bottom due to transom support in the way( not sure if you can cut it out) but if you can get it out then you can do it like the following cut the red square out, then the arrows are pointing to alumminum thru hull fitting ( splashwell drains) theses need removed also before the top can be free.

[reelnmn]

Thru hull fittings are removed. I had already removed the transom support and tried to pry underneath there. How do you replace or reinstall the red square area after its removed?

[Jwengerd]

you would have to sand down the gel coat, then apply some "peanut butter to the under side off that "red square" then glass that square to the hull. Then you will either have to re gel that area or just use bed liner.

[jameson93]

check out my post 93 stratos restore i wedged progressively larger wood "shims" from the bottom up leaving spaces in between them to put larger ones in and kin 0f leapfog them so to speak. all the while lifting up on the cap with my hoist. i did not cut my cap anywhere you can do it find some one with a wood shop and make the wedges with some oak or other hard wood. also i had a pickle fork gear remover i jammed in there with a air hammer. if you dont have acces to a wood shop let me know and i will mail you some. jameson 641-420-7911.

[jameson93]

that water is coming out of your floatation boxes. when they built them they drilled big holes in the top to pour foam in and never glassed over the holes. mine were totaly saturated, this is aloty bigger job than i expected i am going to spend well over 1200 alone just at us composites. just a warning to ya

[reelnmn]

Thanks for the replies. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I'll try to keep the thread updated once I make progress.

James I bookmarked your thread, very interesting and good work. I hope my final tally is under $2k. I've already spent about 1k on tools, wood, hardware, etc.

[reelnmn]

Thanks for the replies. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I'll try to keep the thread updated once I make progress.

James I bookmarked your thread, very interesting and good work. I hope my final tally is under $2k. I've already spent about 1k on tools, wood, hardware, etc.