How do I fix this? I'm mostly concerned with the newly created black spot. I did that one myself (a ladder fell against it in the garage). While I'm at it I'd like to fix the two yellowing spots to the upper right of the black spot. The black spot is about an inch or so in diameter.
Thank you.
You'll need to get some matching gel coat, either from the boat manufacturer, or from a place like Minicraft.
http://www.minicraft.com/
If using a gel the repair kit, follow the directions for mixing the catalyst into the gelcoat. MEKP is the catalyst, treat it like acid, so be careful when handling it.
If using gel from the Manufacturer you'll need to get a small tube of MEKP, available at most auto stores.
Clean the chip area real well, lightly sand the edges to remove any loose particles, using a Dremel tool, bevel the edges sloping into the repair area. Make sure there are no ledges.
Tape off the area around the repair.
Stay close to the repair. Make sure there are no tape ends in the sanding area. The purpose of the tape is to avoid a mess and protect the area around the repair from the sand paper.
Mix about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of Gelcoat in a paper cup with 5-7 drops of MEKP.
Stir completely, with a wood tongue depressor, the MEKP will start a chemical reaction in the gelcoat. You'll start to feel the cup heat up a little, this is normal.
If on the top cap it is pretty easy, follow directions on mixing the catalyst in the gel...if on the sides/bottom you'll probably have to build it up in layers. You can thicken the gel by adding a little pure talc powder to make it a paste type to get on hard to reach areas.
Build the gel a little over as it will shrink some, if you see any air bubbles pop them gently with a pin..........should be cure in 4 hours, but waiting overnight to sand is best.
You will need a piece of waxed paper/cellophane tape, etc. over the repair to seal it off and help the curing as gelcoat will not cure in air.
Just lay the wax paper directly over the wet gelcoat to keep air off it.
If the surface is still sticky on top but the gelcoat is hard underneath, wipe off the tackiness with acetone so your wet sand paper does not gum up.
Acetone is also used for the cleanup ( fingernail polish remover )
Once it is completely cured you can start finishing it.
Use a small sanding block and 600-800 WET sandpaper to get a smooth finish, keeping the paper wet, if sanding lines are still seen up the sandpaper to 1000-1200
If you see a shadow below the sand area you are about to go through the Gelcoat and into the glass and resin. stop sanding.
Once you get the chip sanded smooth you can compound and wax.
Here is a repair I did on my Ranger a while back, I don't know if it will help but it might give you some ideas.....it's not hard, just a little scary if you've never done it before....good luck
"If I can do it, anybody can, well, almost anybody"
http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread?id=686718
great posts fellas, thanks.
just ordered the flake...i'll post back with results.
This is a great post. I also have spots that need repair. My question is when do you mix in the metal or polyflake? I would think that if the flake gets to close to the surface that it would burn the flake when you sand the gel coat down. Do you do it in steps and finish with a clear gel coat topcoat??
In my case, I just mixed the flake and clear 1 to 1 to get the right color, then add the hardener last. I let the tape do the work. Tape over the top of the gel will give you a almost ready to buff finish, the only part that needs major cutting with sandpaper is the seam where it makes the transition from new to old. Your right, it will silver up if you sand too much, just light sand and buff.
I'm pretty happy so far...
Last night I mixed it up (1:1), filled it in, covered it with tape, & let it dry over night.
I pulled the tape off this morning and it looks pretty darn OK...not perfect...I didn't put in quite enough filler and there is a bit of a divet (sp?) yet...gonna fill that in tonight & sand tomorrow.
As long as I was gonna mix up some more filler I wanted to fix some of the yellowed repairs that the previous owner did. If you look at my first picture, you can see the yellowed epoxy areas to the upper right of the black spot (previously black spot!)
What's the best way to remove the old yellowing epoxy covered areas? Sand 'em? Dremel? Other?
Thanks for all the help guys...
Just looking at the picture, it looks like to me you are going to be better off if you remove the old bad spot, your choice of tool, I don't think sanding will get it though.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by offByOne »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I'm pretty happy so far...
Last night I mixed it up (1:1), filled it in, covered it with tape, & let it dry over night.
What's the best way to remove the old yellowing epoxy covered areas? Sand 'em? Dremel? Other?
Thanks for all the help guys...
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Take a dremel tool with the sanding barrell and just grind out enough so you can fill it. Wipe it off with acetone and fill. Always overfill a bit with gelcoat as it will shrink when it cures.
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