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  1. #1
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    Stroker transom update!

    Here is the latest on my journey into the depths of a restoration. Before and after transom rebuild. Now all I have to do is figure out how to rewire the whole boat I'm not a bad carpenter, but I suck at electricity.

  2. Member AirForceAngler's Avatar
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    #2
    Looking good! I'd rather rewire your whole town than do that stuff.
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  3. Moderator JerryT's Avatar
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    #3

    Re: Stroker transom update! (bigfishn864)

    Is that PT plywood? Looks really green?

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    #4

    Re: Stroker transom update! (JerryT)

    looking good i hope its not pressure treated

  5. Member thomasfouraker's Avatar
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    #5

    Re: Stroker transom update! (haulingbass)

    Hopefully you got a good quality cut that isnt pressure treated. I wouldnt use anything worst than an A/B exterior grade wood for my transom. Thats at the very least. Good luck man!
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    #6

    Re: Stroker transom update! (thomasfouraker)

    Yes it is PT, but every piece was sealed before installation, so there is practically no way moisture can enter the wood. Marine grade is intended to be submersed i.e. boat docks, whereas PT resist moisture. If my transom is ever submersed, the wood type, wont matter

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    #7

    Re: Stroker transom update! (bigfishn864)

    They are actually refering to the plywood being a void free grade, sealed and then lapped so the grains are running against each other, then clamped together and wrapped. A properly sealed plywood transom shouldn't take on any water anyways.

    Nobody's calling you out, just want you to have all the facts before the cap is set on.
    2011 Z6, 2011 115 optimax

  8. Member thomasfouraker's Avatar
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    #8

    Re: Stroker transom update! (djarrett)

    I could be mistaken, but I believe there are big issues with delamination when fiberglassing treated wood.

    Maybe some of the experts will chime in and clarify it. If you stay with it you I hope you wont have any issues. I just think if it was a good option to use PT wood in boats, boat makers would.
    2001 Mercury Optimax 225
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  9. Member BASSCAT7's Avatar
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    #9

    Re: Stroker transom update! (thomasfouraker)

    <table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by thomasfouraker &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I could be mistaken, but I believe there are big issues with delamination when fiberglassing treated wood. </td></tr></table>

    Pressure treated plywood can be used for transom building if the plywood was dried out.
    The chemicals used are wet and the wood retains the moisture from them.
    If the wood is dried well there is no problem.
    If the wood was green and damp then there could be problems down the road IF the moisture level in the wood was too much. It could start to delaminate the plys in the wood.
    Another problem is that a lot of pressure treated plywood is ordinary, interior-grade plywood that has been chemically-treated, and it is often made with softer woods to enable the penetration of the wood treating chemicals, with no special care taken to eliminate all gaps or voids.
    Marine grade plywood is gap and void free made with waterproof glue.
    You have to be careful when buying PT plywood for use in boat building, make sure you are getting the right type of PT wood.

  10. Moderator JerryT's Avatar
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    #10

    Re: Stroker transom update! (BASSCAT7)

    Wasnt trying to pee in your Cherrios bud...saw the pictures and the wood looked pretty green..Hate to see you do such a nice job and have it come apart on you when its still at the easy change point

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    #11

    Re: Stroker transom update! (JerryT)

    No offense taken, but I agree, PT wood warps easily and Marine grade is basically a better quality. I have used PT wood on all sorts of projects and I always let it cure before making any measured cuts. Hey, I am a complete rookie so I cant argue with people who have done this before, and I took the advice of someone who has used both types with equal success. Keep the comments coming, I appreciate any credible advice. Oh, the wood did look green, but I assure you it wasent, picture taken at night.

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    #12

    Re: Stroker transom update! (bigfishn864)

    If the wood was sealed prior to installing, you won't have delam issues.

    If you tab it all in very thoroughly with good, high quality stitch and mix your resin perfectly, you wont have warping because the wood won't be able to move


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  13. Member BASSCAT7's Avatar
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    #13

    Re: Stroker transom update! ('82X-270)

    <table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by ’82X-270 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">If the wood was sealed prior to installing, you won't have delam issues.

    If you tab it all in very thoroughly with good, high quality stitch and mix your resin perfectly, you wont have warping because the wood won't be able to move</td></tr></table>

    You are right when using good grade plywood.
    But a lot of pressure treated ply is still very damp from the chemicals injected into the sheathing layers. If this damp wood is glassed in, there is a chance the plys in the wood may delaminate and result in an unstable base.
    The glass won't delaminate, but the plywood may.

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    #14

    Re: Stroker transom update! (BASSCAT7)

    Thanks a lot guys, I would like to know what goes on last. I read a post where a guy put gel coat on his repairs? Is there a specific type or brand. Again, rookie, so throw out advice, Im all ears or eyes.

  15. Member thomasfouraker's Avatar
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    #15

    Re: Stroker transom update! (bigfishn864)

    I am no expert either, but I believe you can brush on gel coat or a bilge coat to give the resin UV protection. I think I am going to use Interlux Bilgekote on mine. Comes in either white or gray and is fairly cheap.

    I wish I could find me a Stroker to restore. How did you come across this boat and what history do you have about it? When was the last time it was in the water and what did they have powering it?

    Awesome Restoration though and looks like you are doing a great job and are pretty handy. Keep it up!
    2001 Mercury Optimax 225
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    #16

    Re: Stroker transom update! (bigfishn864)

    Yes...gel is the final step. You can brush it on or spray it....doesn't matter even if you want to make it look good you can buff and polish. I just finished gel coating my transom replacement too...feels good doesnt it?


    \'82 HS X-270 150XP Evinrude
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    #17

    Re: Stroker transom update! ('82X-270)

    I think i would listen to what these guys have to say about using PT plywood, One of the main ingredients in the PT process is very corrosive and will rust out the motor mounting bolts in just a few months. The work looks good you just need different material.
    River Rat
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  18. Member thomasfouraker's Avatar
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    #18

    Re: Stroker transom update! (River Rat)

    Wanted to bump this thread for an update! Looking forward to seeing some progress on this one!
    2001 Mercury Optimax 225
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    #19

    Re: Stroker transom update! (River Rat)

    [quote= One of the main ingredients in the PT process is very corrosive and will rust out the motor mounting bolts in just a few months. .[/quote]
    Sorry but I find this hard to believe......if it were true the bolts and nails holding my deck on my house would have fallen apart years ago.

  20. Member sandbarDan's Avatar
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    #20

    Re: Stroker transom update! (Scotty B)

    those knee braces are ridiculous , what horsepower is that rated for? whats the measurements on the transom? get to work..


    Modified by sandbarDan at 3:41 PM 5/31/2011

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