reflash the ecu???

[kent61]

2003 225 efi
My idle problems persist and the shop has not been able to identify the problem.
Have been through the motor again, systems checked: fuel pressure, injectors (just serviced by buccao's) recheck, compression 130 all cylinders, cdi's check all seem in good working order, wiring harness check and ohmed good. He has the mercury service tech for our region coming monday to reflash the harddrive. And the tpi has check out fine as well. Have me missed anything??? Is reflashing the ecu like erasing and reloading a computor program? Any other ideas???
Kent

[EuropeanAM]

You've got a good understanding of the ECU Reflash... it's indeed like loading a new "operating system".

Have you checked the bleed valves and ALL BLEED LINES (especially those hidden under the electrical plates, etc)?

[kent61]

I have not. I will check with the service tech and see if he has. If not what am I looking for??
Kent

[EuropeanAM]

Bleed lines are small fuel-resistant lines, used to move "puddled fuel" from one portion of the engine to another (where it can be used for lubrication, or burnt).

The bleed lines run side to side around the intake, AND on each side of the engine (a complete diagram is available in the service manual).

Common leak points are where the lines attach at the side of the cylinder block (especially underneath the electrical plate).

[kent61]

I have no leaks that I can find but if the lines were clogged would that cause loading up after warm up and long idle periods????
Also the small elbows coming out of the engine. Are they also check valves or just elbows that I could clean out?? Also, the lines that run between the elbows are the some lines that came with the motor. Ask the tech during rebuild if they were going to replace and he said no that the old lines would be fine. Do these lines break down from the ethonol like the fuel lines do??
Thanks,
Kent

[EuropeanAM]

Some fittings ARE check valves, some are not. Specific fittings would need to be verified via the service manual and/or parts manuals.

Yes, since these lines do carry fuel.... there is always a possibility that ethanol is breaking down the lines, and allowing leaks to occur at or around the fittings, etc.

On this particular engine, you'll often narrow down a bleed line problem "search" by starting the engine (COLD) with the cowling OFF. Sometimes, on a cold start, a leaking bleed line will cause a backfire, followed by a "puff of smoke" from the offending leak.

[kent61]

Got the boat back and still won't start with adding throttle after engine has started the first time. Have not been able to get back to them yet but your previous comment got me to thinking. Is a leaking bleader line like a leaking vacume line on a car in that it effects the mapping sensor and causes it not to give the propper amount of fuel???
Thanks,
Kent

[EuropeanAM]

That's "close". It could affect the MAP very slightly (but only slightly). More likely is that it's sucking air.... resulting in a leaner mixture.

[kent61]

My last post was not quite right. It should have said after engine warms it will not start unless a little throttle is applied. Got to speek to the shop this morning and it seems that this model has had issues with the butterflys not letting enough air through at idle and while there is not a service bullitin out about this the regional merc tech said the fix is to drill an 1/8 hole in the butterfly to allow some additional air. (yet to be done) After engine starts idle is still a little rough but dosen't seem to load up like it did, so what ever they did seems to have helped a little. What do think about they remedy??? I guess if they do it and it dosen't work or makes it worse the'll fix it.
Kent

[EuropeanAM]

There is an adjustment for the throttle plate.... drilling the plate probably should be the "last" resort....

Kent.... you might also want go give me a call sometime. May have some other pointers for you.

[kent61]

Don it was great talking to you today. I went and check the butterfly valve on top of the intake manifold and it is completely shut. No gap. There is an adjustment on the port side of the valve. When we talked earlier I was thinking that you were speaking of the throttle stops on the side of the engine. Which one were you talking about??? Also I noticed that when I got the boat back it seems that full throttle was shorter on my pedal than before so I checked the butterfly valve for wot and with the pedal at wot the valve is opened abount 80 %. Should it be straight up and down???
Thanks again
Kent

[EuropeanAM]

I was speaking of the stop screw AT THE BUTTERFLY SHAFT (and NOT the ones on the side of the engine).

Yes, your throttle blade SHOULD be reaching full travel (straight open in the bore), with approximately 1/16" of further travel (so it's not hammering against the stop and wearing the throttle shaft or blade).

[225efi21xd]

my 2001 did the same thing until I put a MAD EFI tuner in it. now touch the key and it fires right up