I am doing a little wet sanding on a boat with 1000 then 2000. After that, I'm applying rubbing compound. The only problem is the rubbing compound will not come off and if it does, there are heavy swirl marks. Is there anything I can do to get the compound off easier and get these swirl marks out?
The Dink Dominator
Hi fivebasslimit,
I just done the same to my fender today and had no problems at all.Im not a pro but here is what I used.
Meguiars m 85 diamond cutting compound.Meguiars red and white solo wool pad on a Dewalt 849 set at 1400 rpms.
The depth of shine is unlike any I have seen to date.It was super easy,and it was my first time ever using it,so I was nervous at first,but got it done quite quick and easy!I'm going to do the whole boat now.
Here is a good online source for all the Meguiars stuff http://www.autodetailingsolutions.com/
You can also learn a little more about it at Meguiars chat room, http://meguiarsonline.com/
It is a very helpful site,I have been reading there for a few years,I use all their stuff on my truck and car.
I can take some pics and email them to you if you would like to see it! And the stuff I used!
Good luck!
Ed
Ed, thanks for the reply. I think the problem is that I am getting conflicting information about rubbing compounds. I used some Turtle Wax rubbung compound today....it says to apply with a damp cloth then wipe off with a dry cloth. Then someone else tells me to apply with a cloth, let dry, then wipe off with a dry cloth, pretty much like waxing. Then on an internet site it says to apply (on a buffer) and buff an area until all the compound disappears, then wash the area with water. I'm confused man.
I did one 2 ft section today with the 1000 grit, then the 2000 grit. I then applied the TW rubbing compound with a rag, let it sit a few minutes, then buffed the compound off.....it turned out slick and the color and shine came back immediately. I moved to another section, repeated the same steps and I got swirl marks like crazy and the compound just didn't want to come off. So I got pissed and quit.I am however going to finish the job tomorrow if I can figure out this compound thing (wet or dry cloth, rub on with rag like wax or buff til it disappears?)
The Dink Dominator
Here are some instructions for wet sanding :
Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wet sanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander if you do not own one...a lot of labor involved, but can save you big $$$$ over a re-clearcoat.
All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer.
You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clearcoat, you can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model.
Harbor Freight has an inexpensive 3,000 rpm model.
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...2623s
3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing.
Wet Sandpaper in 1200/1500/and 2000 grit. The grit can be matched to the severity of the oxidation...if it is real bad you may have to start with 800 grit and work up to 1200 grit.
3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973
3M Final Glaze # 06066
Any hard Carnauba Marine Wax
1st step is to remove all the hardware you can.
Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass.
2nd step is to wet sand by hand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper.
Start with the 1200 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1500 grit, and rinse, then again with the 2000 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru LOL..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you feel any of the metalflake ( rough , grainy ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes.
When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded.
3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel.
When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat.
4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat.
make sure you cover the carpeting in the boat with a tarp or plastic to keep all the material off the rugs.
By this time if their was not any actual gelcoat damage the clearcoat should look almost new again.
The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnauba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as it comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver..
Pro-Tec makes an excellent polymer sealer for the gelcoat, bonds to the glass and seals the pores to help prevent oxidation.
http://www.protecproducts.com/products.html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fivebasslimit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ed, thanks for the reply. I think the problem is that I am getting conflicting information about rubbing compounds. I used some Turtle Wax rubbung compound today....it says to apply with a damp cloth then wipe off with a dry cloth. Then someone else tells me to apply with a cloth, let dry, then wipe off with a dry cloth, pretty much like waxing. Then on an internet site it says to apply (on a buffer) and buff an area until all the compound disappears, then wash the area with water. I'm confused man.
I did one 2 ft section today with the 1000 grit, then the 2000 grit. I then applied the TW rubbing compound with a rag, let it sit a few minutes, then buffed the compound off.....it turned out slick and the color and shine came back immediately. I moved to another section, repeated the same steps and I got swirl marks like crazy and the compound just didn't want to come off. So I got pissed and quit.
When using compound you must break down the diminishing abrasives. The swirl marks you are seeing is because you haven't broke down the compound. This is very hard to do by hand most of the time.
Take a small area about a foot square and really work the compound in for a few minutes. It should turn kind of oily looking when the compound breaks down. Then wipe off immediately. (Dry microfiber towel is best) Compound should never be left on to dry. ThatÂs for wax only.
Another thing that will help is get a foam applicator pad like the ones that come in a can of wax. Use the pad and really work the compound down and you should get rid of the swirls.
What you might be seeing is the sanding marks. Most of the time sanding marks need a rotary buffer and compound to get them out completely.
take bass cats advise and you will be much better off.
Reply With Quote