Hello,
A while back I saw a post here that pretty much step by step listed the process for wet-sanding, compounding and finishing oxidized fiberglass - could somebody possibly repost this?
I have been spending the last year trying to get enough courage to try this and I think I've finally convinced my self to do it
Thanks much!
I don't know who to give credit to for this as it has been posted a bunch, but to whoever originally posted it, Thanks!!!
Edited to add...I just found that it was BASSCAT7 that posted these instructions.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here are some instructions for wet sanding :
Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wetsanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander if you do not own one...a lot of labor involved, but can save you big $$$$ over a re-clearcoat.
All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer.
You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clearcoat, you can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model.
3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing.
Wet Sandpaper in 1200/1500/and 2000 grit. The grit can be mqatched to the severity of the oxidation...if it is real bad you may have to start with 800 grit and work up to 1200 grit.
3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973
3M Final Glaze # 06066
Any hard Carnuba Marine Wax
1st step is to remove all the hardware you can.
Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass.
2nd step is to wet sand by hand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper.
Start with the 1200 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1500 grit, and rinse, then again with the 2000 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru LOL..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you feel any of the metalflake ( rough , grainy ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes.
When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded.
3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel.
When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat.
4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat.
make sure you cover the carpeting in the boat with a tarp or plastic to keep all the material off the rugs.
By this time if their was not any actual gelcoat damage the clearcoat should look almost new again.
The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnuba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as ti comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver..
BASSCAT7
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Modified by hammerhead at 1:47 PM 4/14/2008
Those are the instructions I have posted...Here are some before and after pics from using these steps.
Before ;
After :
Thank you, Gents! much appreciated!
I think I'll print it out this time.
To me this seems really useful. I'd recommend it's one of those posts that has the "tack" next to it so it stays for the duration.
Modified by russj684 at 11:14 AM 4/14/2008
OK, printed those steps out and have everything on hand or on order. Here's my question, how do you actually apply the compound? Do you spread it on the gel coat with a rag or something and then go over it with the high speed buffer? Or do you glob it on the buffing pad and hit the trigger?
Thanks
dc
Quick question. Do you do this with the pad of the boat as well?
My cajun has a pretty decent finish but I wouldn't mind making it shine a bit.
Also how do you deal with logo stickers? I would like to keep them until they eventually degrade on their own.
Compound will ruin the stickers/decals.
I used 3M 1200 scratch remover and it's liquid. I poured it on the boat and smoothed it around with my hand and then used buffer. DO NOT ATTEMPT this in direct sun!
lots of pics here
http://www.bbcboards.net...61302
I am getting ready to do this to my 20ft Astro and this web site is the best thing I could have found. I will post pics along the way (new carpet, new lid latches, recessed foot control for trolling, wet sand, new electronics)
I have some questions and appreciate any feedback:
1) can you use a power sander for this or must it be done by hand?
2) at West marine, they recommended a one step 3M restorer and wax (rubbing compound / polisher combination product). Has anyone used this for heavy oxidation after wet sanding or am I better using seperate products for each step.
3) Some people tell me the oxidation will show back through after several months even after wet sanding and that for a perminant fix you need to redo the gelcoat. is this true?
here is the 3m product recommended
3MÂ Marine Restorer and Wax
[click to enlarge] Designed to remove HEAVY oxidation, chalking, fading, minor scratches, rust and exhaust stains; plus provide protection on fiberglass/gelcoat. Available in liquid and paste versions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redneck Nole »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am getting ready to do this to my 20ft Astro and this web site is the best thing I could have found. I will post pics along the way (new carpet, new lid latches, recessed foot control for trolling, wet sand, new electronics)
I have some questions and appreciate any feedback:
1) can you use a power sander for this or must it be done by hand?
2) at West marine, they recommended a one step 3M restorer and wax (rubbing compound / polisher combination product). Has anyone used this for heavy oxidation after wet sanding or am I better using seperate products for each step.
3) Some people tell me the oxidation will show back through after several months even after wet sanding and that for a perminant fix you need to redo the gel coat. is this true?
here is the 3m product recommended
3MÂ Marine Restorer and Wax
[click to enlarge] Designed to remove HEAVY oxidation, chalking, fading, minor scratches, rust and exhaust stains; plus provide protection on fiberglass/gel coat. Available in liquid and paste versions.
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1. Sanding gel coat is a delicate process that has to be done by hand... if your not careful you can go right threw the gel coat and expose the metal flake. You are removing layers of gel coat, and doing it by hand assures your not taking to much off, and its way better attention to detail.
2. Use 3M rubbing compound and final gaze. This has worked for everyone that has done this.
3. TRUE. If you don't sand off heavy oxidation, it will reappear later. Without sanding your just covering it up. For light oxidation a good compound can take it off. If you are considering wet sanding, then you know your boat looks bad.
4. I learned by BassCat7's instructions. If you follow them you will get great results. After I did one boat, I had it memorized by reading it 100 timesThe second boat I have changed a few things to my own liking, but the same prinicle and steps.
5. Don't look at this as alot of hard work. Look at it as an art, because it takes more finesse then streghth. Take your time and get a feel for the sand paper, and how its effecting the gel coat... rub your hand across it and feel how smooth its becoming. You will get the hang of it in no time at all.
6. Good luck and ask questions as needed.
thanks for the reply
ok, maybe this is a pretty obvious answer but - if the entire boat is not oxidized, can you only do part of the boat (will the non sanded and sanded sections be able to be blended together) or do you need to redo the entire boat gelcoat to make it look right. On my boat, only 1/2 of it has the oxidation problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redneck Nole »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the reply
ok, maybe this is a pretty obvious answer but - if the entire boat is not oxidized, can you only do part of the boat (will the non sanded and sanded sections be able to be blended together) or do you need to redo the entire boat gelcoat to make it look right. On my boat, only 1/2 of it has the oxidation problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your gonna do it.... do it all... if you dont, the part you did do will look a ton better..... if there is no oxidation on the 2nd hafe of your boat, just wetsand the oxidation, then buff the whole boat with the compound, ect..
I would do the whole thing to make it all look brand new.
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