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  1. #1
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    89 Vision Restore

    I am thinking about undertaking a glass boat restoration. I have done as much research as possible and I have learned that people just don't take enough pictures and explain them whenever possible. I can't talk much though, I haven't ever done this before. I know the basic steps that I probably need to follow but once I remove the upper glass hull, how do I measure the correct lenght, width, depth ect of the stringers and other decomposed wood that needs to be replaced and reglassed? I once saw a glass boat "improvement" I think it was an older "Astro". The owner raised the front deck up and I remember it showed several good photos. I think it was on this board but, it's been awhile. Anyway, if anyone has any good locations that I can find some helpful info, I appericate it. Thanks I will take picture and try to explain and maybe, just maybe I'll do this job right and it'll be of help to someone else.


    Modified by Fishinjunky at 4:26 PM 3/14/2006

  2. Member
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    #2

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)

    bump to top


    may have got missed by the experts

  3. Moderator
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    #3

    Re: Member (blackram)

    You might try to IM Cyclone70 on this site.....I think the pics you seen was from his ride

  4. Member
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    #4

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)

    before you remove any rotten wood there is probably enough still there to make card board patterns. they dont need to be one piece patterns, but make good reference mark one smaller pieces. make sure the bottom is surppored, so in stays straight. the trailer is not enough.

    take some pictures and post them and ask question. you'll get the answer/s

  5. Member
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    #5

    Re: Member (merklerob)

    Well no time like the present to get started. I took some pictures of the boat as is. I have to say most of this damage was caused by me. I need more discipline when it comes to covering her. No matter how much I regret it, I need to get started. I plan on doing ALL the work myself. Anyway, here it goes!

    Having problems posting pictures to this message!!!!!!!! I know that pictures can be posted directly to the message, But I haven't figured it out. Could someone help?

  6. Member
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    #6

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)

    GOT IT FIGURED OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    <U></U>
    Here she is!


    You would think she looks okay, til you get close.



    What should I do about this. You can see the color of the hull is black and this is a white spot. Is this major or will I be able to sand and buff it out? Notice the gouge to the left. That was there when I purchased the boat. What's the fix for that?

    Here is a similar looking spot, same corner of the hull.

    My brother calls this my Maytag. She'll flat churn some water. V8 275 BIG BLOCK. Gas sucker!!!!!!!!!!!!

    She's a good boat, just a little weathered.

    She sets low, low, low in the water. At first I thought that it was because of the massive motor, but now I wonder if it is water logged in the rear. It leaks around the transom cap and the splash well is ALWAYS in the water. When she leaves the hole and gets on pad, she stays there and man what a smooth ride!


    I'm gonna try to wet sand and then wax and buff the oxidation away.


    I already tore into the seats. The glass is in great shape, the wood is gone, The foam is a little wet but, in great shape, the vinyl for the most part is in decent condition. I'm sure they're some pieces I'll have to replace.


    Vision Boats is outta business now so I think I'll try the wood grain like the Ranger guy. He made it look simple enough.

    Replacing the carpet is a must but, I've done that before. I'd like to make some alterations to the interior but, that might have to wait til I get a shop. I know I really need to de-capatate it and start from the inside out, but, I don't know if I can do that out doors. This is Arkansas ands the mosquitoes are horrible.

    If anyone has a suggestion, I'm willing to hear it and If anyone has the know-how, I'll read it and TRY to follow it. But, I think she probably won't see fishing water this year.



    Modified by Fishinjunky at 7:09 PM 10/27/2006

  7. Member
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    #7

    Re: Member (Rollo331)

    Chuck,

    I can't find it in the search.

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    #8

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)


  9. Moderator
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    #9

    Re: Member (Rollo331)

    It appears to need a pretty extensive face lift...I think you try to sand a oxidation spot smooth and buff see if it has much gel left on it..........Is the boat all flake?

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    #10

    Re: Member (Rollo331)

    Yep, All Flake. I was running my hand along the top accent line and I could feel the flake. What will happen to that when I sand it there? I washed it after I took the pictures. It doesn't look quite so bad now but, I did notice the white spots came off alittle. Is that oxidation too? I've read some of the other post on the board and some say to use an air powered orbital and other say a sanding block, I guess it comes down to preference? I'm gonna try to get started on the hull after I finish the seats. The weather still a little screwed up here. Not to mention I have to do this in my spare time and I don't have much of that right now. Besides I've gotta take it in to the local boat shop and get the motor looked at. It seems to be running on about half the cylinders some of the time. I replaced one of the power packs in the fall but that didn't help, so I figured I'd get some diagnostics done. Anyway, I'd appericate any tips I can get.

  11. Member
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    #11

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)

    Hey Clayton,
    The gel coat on my javelin was in pretty bad shape too and I could feel the flake when I ran my hand along it. In fact, I washed it with a hand mit and it tore the mit apart!. Yeah, it was pretty bad. Anyway, I wet sanded it; started with 1000 grit, then 1500, and then topped it off with 2500 grit. I then washed it real good, applied some Meguires #49 on it, followed the directions for that and then put a coat of Mequires gel coat wax on it. It was a lot of elbow grease involved for just a little bit of area but well worth it. Now it is as smooth as glass and shines like new.

    Hope this helped ya out.

  12. Member
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    #12

    Re: Member (smoot504)

    Thanks George!

    I keep that in mind. I have thought about it too long and I'm thinking of making some changes in the layout. If I'm gonna go to the trouble of replacing the carpet and redoing the seats, well I might as well make some more changes that I have wanted in this boat. Check this picture out and maybe you'll agree.

    BEFORE


    AFTER


    1. I'm looking at flipping my rod box access to face into the boat.
    2. I always wanted a ice chest that didn't move around and spill in rough water.
    3. I NEED more storage space and I hate tripping over my stuff, so more storage is in line.
    BONUS = More front deck space and I get what I need and always wanted.

    I'll frame it and glass it in, add paint and flake then gel coat. I figure I'll probably have to re-gel the entire interior as well as the top cap. Don't you think? I figure that is the ONLY way I can make everything look like it came that way.

    QUESTION?: How can I make a lip on the new compartments to be some what water proof (you know, keep water from running in during weather or cleaning )?

    Let me know what you think.

    Oh yeah, George! I am a fellow officer too, Sheriff Dept Captain, ex narc (Don't miss being a narc).

    George, answer me a question. How do you and Barbour and Rollo, get those images on the bottom of your post?


    Modified by Fishinjunky at 10:16 PM 3/15/2006


    Modified by Fishinjunky at 12:42 AM 3/16/2006

  13. Member
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    #13

    Re: Member (Rollo331)

    Hey Rollo!

    It's been awhile but, I have started on the "Project"! I have a question (The first of many, I'm sure), I have taken all 1000 screws or so out and removed the bumper channel and the other 1000 hidden screws removed the maytag and behold, a damp transom, (but, moving on), none of the fixtures (Bolts, thru hull fitting, ect...) were sealed, yep just damp, "I Think" Now for the real topic for now anyway, After I removed the motor and aluminum cover for the transom, I fould it filled with an epoxy, what appears to be just a filler epoxy. Well, after I chiseled this out, I still could not budge the top cap at the transom so, I peered in the rear of the hull and seen that the factory used this same epoxy to seal the interior of the transom to the hull. Now there is enough room to get inside the hull and chisel this away but, now here is my question so get ready " Do you think the interior surface of the top cap/splashwell, approximately 6" x 24" is glued to the interior of the hull transom with this epoxy?" I know that if I try to pull the top cap off using pressure, it will probably break at the splash well. But, if I chisel away the epoxy inside the hull, could or would it most likely pull away from the mating surfaces? The only other out I see to this is to use a sawz-all and cut that portion of the splashwell away and try to remove it with the top cap outta the way and repair it later (before I reinstall the top cap). I'm by NO MEANS a pro at this as you can obviously tell. I wish I had picture to show you what I am talking about. "It got too dark out and yep, it's a yard job." Anyway ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPERICATED!!!!!!!!!!!

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    #14

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)

    If you want it off fast cut it off and repair.....alot of manufactures use transom putty or they will take a big wad of glass and resin when the set the deck on the hull.........and seal it..... it sounds like they got sloppy and got it layed not only on the transom but in the splashwell also......i would look at trying to use a sawzall very gently under it and cut it loose between the deck and the hull....

  15. Member
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    #15

    Re: Member (Rollo331)

    Chuck,

    I agree with the sloppy part. I wish I could get you a pic but, I don't have access to a camera right now. But, let me tell you what I have in mind to remedy this situation. I'm thinking if I cut the top on the splashwell along the lenght (The part the aluminum trim covers) using a skil saw (just to ensure I get a straight cut) and then follow up with a sawzall (and try to stay right at the inner surface of the rear of the splashwell) then I theroitically I should only cut the epoxy and alittle transom wood.

    I really don't know much about galss repair but, maybe someone here can give me some good SIMPLE pointers. I'm thinking I could lay some glass cloth on the exterior and resin it then pull the top cap and flip it over and do the serious glassing on the interior, then go back and sand the top cloth and resin smooth and it should be good as new when painted, flaked and cleared. Am I on the right track? let me know what you think, Thanks

  16. Member mcgaff1's Avatar
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    #16

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)

    Clayton
    When i did mine i took ahack saw blade and taped one end and went slow.I also let the transom cap cover the piece that broke out. Isaw the post about the splash well tubes the only replacement i could find were the plastic ones mcgaff1

  17. Member
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    #17

    Re: Member (mcgaff1)

    Well, I tried using a chisel, (little help), so I turned to my saws and after some work I got it loose. It was soild epoxy for about 7" x 24". Man even with a sawzall it was a job. Not to mention all the glass I got on me and now I'm paying for it. Anyway, now i think its ready to de-cap and get to work, maybe more picutres soon. Hope me well!!!!!!!!!

  18. Member
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    #18

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)

    Well, how is the project coming along? Those old Visions are great boats.

  19. Member
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    #19

    Re: Member (perfect-storm)

    Well, it's going slow but, I am making some progress with it. Here are some update pictures

    I'm the FAT guy with the BIG grin

    Here is the hull, it seems even bigger without the top cap.

    I'm gonna have to remove all the area in black except the 2x6 braces in the center, they are solid but, the boxes on the sides that are filled with foam have to be replaced and refilled with foam and sealed again.


    I'm gonna try to remake these with carbon fiber and resin but, I haven't quite figured out how to relabel them.

    And as you can see, the wiring has been a little trashed over the years.

    Just to let everyone know, When you get everything else loose and you figure the top cap should come up easy, take a saw-z-all and JUST cut along the seam of the top can where it joins the floor. Don't do as I did and cut it with a skil saw and make more work for yourself. Now I have to replace the lower floor material and re-glass it in. Oh well, I'll know better next time.

    I about made up my mind to repaint the whole thing. This weekend I'm gonna strip the adhesive from where the carpet was glued to the fiberglass and aluminum.

    Anyway, we'll see how it goes. Thanks for asking and looking forward to more ideas and support.

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    #20

    Re: Member (Fishinjunky)

    thanks for the pics now is the time to get some floor height measurements

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