2008 250 Pro XS Cracked Reeds Symptoms?

[JOE54]

^^^^^^^^ +1 should take app 4 seconds to fire off

[Slig]

Today's fuels can vaporize at temps as low as 60F. So you'll need to pump the bulb firm before EVERY engine start (not just the first one of the day).

If, after you've done that it's not starting on the 3rd revolution (yada-da-yada-da-yada-da-vrrrrrm) something is WRONG.

After the motor has been sitting for a bit, it definitely doesn't go yada da yada yada vrrrrrmm like it did before all of the issues began. It cranks then acts like it's going to try to go but doesn't. If I give it a little throttle that seems to speed up the process, and then about the 3rd key back on attempt it, it starts. And I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key before cranking, so my first guess is the bulb. It doesn't make sense why the bulb doesn't stay firm even if I don't start it, but I'm not a merc tech so maybe that's normal.

I took the cowling off while pumping the bulb and I don't smell fuel or see/hear anything obvious.

[EuropeanAM]

1. Could be the bulb, anti-siphon valve, OR an air leak between the fuel level and the bulb.

2. Could also be TOTALLY unrelated to fuel (Crank sensor or Flywheel/Reluctor wheel rusty-flaked paint). Tends to cause an "I think I can I think I can, nope... well maybe" on some cold or restarts.

[Slig]

1. Could be the bulb, anti-siphon valve, OR an air leak between the fuel level and the bulb.

2. Could also be TOTALLY unrelated to fuel (Crank sensor or Flywheel/Reluctor wheel rusty-flaked paint). Tends to cause an "I think I can I think I can, nope... well maybe" on some cold or restarts.

Thanks Don! I might take the cowling off again in the garage where it's quiet and no wind, see if I can pinpoint an air leak. If not, correct me if I'm wrong, it looks like the OEM primer bulb replacement is part # 8M0061875.

[EuropeanAM]

Or, 8M0061876 (either is fine).

Not likely you'll "hear" an air leak between the fuel level and bulb.