Ranger Livewell Control Binding

[kailor]

I went to clean my livewells today and discovered the livewell control (RECIRC EMPTY AUTO) by the driver's seat binds somewhat when trying to put the control into the RECIRC position. My cleaning solution immediately drained right out the livewells and subsequently the back of the boat. I removed the two phillips screws and pull the dial mechanism out of its mounting hole and was able to turn the dial back and forth and got proper behavior from the livewell system in RECIRC, although it seemed somewhat stiff when changing dial positions. Has anyone experienced this issue? Thanks in advance.

[kelbro]

Mine seems a little too stiff too. Interested to hear suggestions.

[Jbass123]

I had this happen once, on a 2014. Took it to the dealer and had them install a new cable.

[rangered]

Yes I even bent the inner cable. Take off the plate and try spraying some WD40 into cable. Also if you can get to your valve in the bilge
area you might clean and spray the cable there.

[kailor]

I got into the bilge today and checked my Flow-Rite valve. I have the one with the green lever and the cable approach is from the rear (of the boat). I guess my cable to be approximately 10' in length from driver's seat to the valve in the bottom of the bilge. I could see some orange-ish corrosion on the steel cable where it exits the sheath and goes to the green lever on the valve. I sprayed both ends of the cable with WD-40 and worked the cable back and forth from each end.

RECIRC EMPTY AUTO are all functioning properly. At some point, in the heat of the summer, I'll pull the cable out and determine its precise length and then order a spare system (valve + cable). I'll do the same for the remote drain plug.

I also cleaned around my remote drain plug in the bilge and put Molykote on the o-ring outside the transom on the red plug.

BONUS ALERT: I found a 5/16" quarter-inch drive socket I had lost 3-4 years ago. It was incredibly rusty!

[rangered]

Yea that cable is kind of weak for what it’s asked to
do. No doubt that corrosion get’s in it. Glad you
lubed it as that will help.

[schinkr1]

Mine was stiff from day 1. It feels like I'm going to break the plastic switch or cable every time I turn it. I hate the new livewell system on boats. I'll go back to a simple plug in the bottom of my livewell any day.

[Jbass123]

Mine was stiff from day 1. It feels like I'm going to break the plastic switch or cable every time I turn it. I hate the new livewell system on boats. I'll go back to a simple plug in the bottom of my livewell any day.

You’re not far from Knox Marine. Call Mike and ask him for an appointment to get it fixed. It’s not a design problem; something simply isn’t right on your boat.

[scream_n_chicken]

Mine was the same. Earlier today I removed the valve body from the boat opened it and cleaned it. Works great now. It was only difficult because Ranger used crimp on hose clamps that are a pain to remove. Maybe putting clean water in live wells and draining would have flushed it but i was also checking for damage. After 13 years it still looked good.

[scream_n_chicken]

Mine was stiff from day 1. It feels like I'm going to break the plastic switch or cable every time I turn it. I hate the new livewell system on boats. I'll go back to a simple plug in the bottom of my livewell any day.

I think sometimes the screws that hold the levers in place one the valve body are too tight. I loosened mine an 1/8 to 1/4 turn and now it is a lot smoother. Saw that trick on the ole youtubes.

[kailor]

I have a cinch clamp cutting PEX tool if I ever need to replace a pump. I'll the go with the quick connect fittings too, or just good ole heater hose clamps.

[wbfishon]

Had the same issue on a 2008 Ranger I bought a couple of years ago. A friend had a gadget that clamped around the end of the cable that allowed for cable lube to spray into the cable sleeve.
I lubed it several times, allowing plenty of time for it to soak/flow downhill toward the far end. I also clamped vise grips on the cable to allow for working it back and forth, rather than using the plastic lever.
Eventually it loosened up and has stayed operational now for the past two years.

[schinkr1]

Had the same issue on a 2008 Ranger I bought a couple of years ago. A friend had a gadget that clamped around the end of the cable that allowed for cable lube to spray into the cable sleeve.
I lubed it several times, allowing plenty of time for it to soak/flow downhill toward the far end. I also clamped vise grips on the cable to allow for working it back and forth, rather than using the plastic lever.
Eventually it loosened up and has stayed operational now for the past two years.

I have one of those cable lube tools. Would like to give that a try. I just removed the two screws holding the switch plate on the side console, but it doesn't seem to want to come out through the hole. Is that how you access the cable?

[schinkr1]

I took the whole valve assembly out. Cable moves fine. Binding was the valve. I'm just going to replace it.

[Vtbuck]

I bent my cable this weekend trying to get it to the recirculate position. I’ll look at the valve, but does anyone know how long the cable is before I order a replacement?

[botrdav]

On my 2019 518 L the cable is 12 foot and the replacement livewell actuator Flow Rite number is MV- 01- RN01

[Amistad Tackle]

Take the switch off the cable and see if it is the switch. Mine was bad. Binding up. Ordered a new switch and all is well.