Blazer VL100 The Forgotten Pocket Bass Boat

[rojoguio]

Repair Trolling Motor Holes 15.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 16.JPG

Now I add the reinforcement ground up fiberglass to the epoxy and fill the remainder of the holes just a tiny bit high.

Repair Trolling Motor Holes 17.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 18.JPG

By placing the bondo spreaders on the repairs I make sure no sanding will be needed if mounting the trolling motor on this side. Once cured the bondo spreaders peel right off. I had a couple of small ledges that a razor scraper cut right off. The bondo spreaders will not peel off until the Epoxy is cured so if you try to peel and feel resistance walk away till the Epoxy cures. Give it a extra day. I use the cheap spreaders from Harbor Freight just make sure you put the flat side down. Another thing, Epoxy can be tinted. I could have tinted the Epoxy to match the boat enough to reduce the visibility of the repair if I was not installing a trolling motor over the repaired holes.

[paulrodbender]

......... Yes sir. Did the same thing to mine. Just couldn't live with myself knowing I had extra holes up there.

[rojoguio]

......... Yes sir. Did the same thing to mine. Just couldn't live with myself knowing I had extra holes up there.

Owners who don't keep that area filled and not just silicone in the holes are rolling the "Rot" dice. You can't see it but water accumulates under the trolling motors mounting bases and if there is the tinniest hole water will eventually rot the core material.

[rojoguio]

For those following, I ordered the top fabric Friday so making the new Top for the Arch will be very soon. Stamoid has gotten so expensive I switched to Weblon Regatta. It is a good fabric just a little bit bulkier than Stamoid Lite but waterproof none the less.

https://www.herculite.com/marine-fab...egatta-fabrics

I have always used single side coated Stamoid (Lite) as when stowed the tops bundle diameter can really be contained but that is not needed as the Arch will support the little bit of added weight & bulk with out any problems. I always make a Boot for the tops I fabricate and I'm looking for a Lime Green material for the Boot. If I can't find a suitable marine fabric in that color I will make a Boot out of the white Regatta fabric.

[rojoguio]

If I can take you back to here.

Bimini Arch Painting 12.JPGPatterning the Canvas 8.JPG

The fabric arrived today. I didn't manage much on the new Bimini today as other jobs and cooking lunch got in the way. I did get the Patterns cleaned up, trimmed up, and began laying out the patterns on the fabric.

Making the Arch Bimini Canvas 1.JPGMaking the Arch Bimini Canvas 2.JPG

When you make a top pattern plenty of notes keeps you from having a mistake. POUT means PORT Out or topside and SOUT means Starboard side.

Making the Arch Bimini Canvas 3.JPG

The books are the service manuals for my 2001 Crewcab, the one that got crushed. When I buy a new vehicle I march right over to the parts counter at the dealership and order a set of the manuals the service techs use. Well they make great weights for holding the patterns in place on the fabric too.

Making the Arch Bimini Canvas 4.JPG

Maintaining the direction of the Bimini and the Centerline is extremely important. I make numerous reference marking on all my patterns so when you forgot a detail it's noted on the pattern to remind you.

[rojoguio]

Went for the first official crappie fishing trip in the Skeeter I picked up in a swap day before yesterday. Hopped up on the front deck. Plopping down in the seat while it was positioned in the original seat base was a mistake as the seat just leaned over. Not a large deck by any means, I was heading for the water

The problem with having 5 Legacy Bass Boats is keeping them up.

Bow Seat Base Replacement 1.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 2.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 3.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 4.JPG

I wanted to re-carpet this boat anyway so after ripping the carpet up I could get the full view of the problem. What a mess, no Stainless Steel here.

Bow Seat Base Replacement 5.JPG

First thing is to keep the rest of the boat clean. Skeeter recessed the seat base then applied gelcoat to blend the seat base to the deck before carpeting it. Well this just made the seat base rust worse.

Bow Seat Base Replacement 6.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 7.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 8.JPG

After grinding all the cracked gelcoat flat and cleaning out very well the deck area and rim around where the original seat base was located I cut 3 layers of Stitch Mat to fit and fill the void. You can see in the pictures how the Stitch Mat gradually gets larger as the layers stack. The outside weaves were pulled also to ease blending.

Bow Seat Base Replacement 9.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 10.JPG

Mixing some polyester resin (I'm out of Epoxy resin right now) up I laminated the first 3 layers in place allowing enough time for the resin to flash and cool before continuing.

Bow Seat Base Replacement 11.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 12.JPG

Switching to Chop Mat shredding the edges first layering Chop to just about fill.

Bow Seat Base Replacement 13.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 14.JPGBow Seat Base Replacement 15.JPG

Finishing the repair for overnight curing I use Rage Gold Body Filler augmented with Polyester resin to fair.

[rojoguio]

Here is a picture after sanding. I thought I had some white gelcoat but I don't so I will do a color match and order some from Fiberglast.com premixed. There is some nicks I want to fix and having the original color uncovered will make a great color match easy.

Bow Seat Base Replacement 16.JPG

Once the sanding block cut scratches all the way across I stopped sanding. The deck is very straight now. Once gelcoated I can carpet and replace the seat base. I cut the carpet where the base goes with a razor blade after the base is mounted. I use the screws to hold the base so it remains perfectly positioned while I cut the carpet. No carpet goes between the base & deck. I will update this as the repair is completed.

[billnorman1]

It's amazing someone would put a mild steel base in a bass boat. Now I fully see why you were headed over the railing LOL. I might be tempted to move the new base an inch or two to get some existing deck as well as the repair. Too bad someone doesn't sell a slightly larger base, however there are some rectangular bases sold.

https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Lockn...435178858&th=1

[rojoguio]

I know what you mean. Now I have installed a 7x7 SS base real close to the bow for single pole crappie fishing. My feet rest on the TM scissor MT and gunnel using that base. Great for single poling. My marine supply warehouse has numerous seat bases offered and I have 2 4x8's and 2 7x7's Bronze bushing in my cart. I'm going to add a 60gph Racor to the new 184DC Champion I recently bought since Mercury customer service won't advise to or not to install. Said bring it to a dealer and ask them if they would install. I don't think a 2022 175 ProXS will lean out on a 60gph filter. So I put the Racor in my cart with the seat bases. The original was 6x8 a odd size for me. I mostly work on Saltwater Center Consoles and they use the 4x8 bases in the back and 7x7's everywhere else so I usually keep them in stock but recently had to replace the OEM units on a LTS240 Triton. 2004 model so they got their monies worth. Still propping this Skeeter out a Solas Hydro 20in turned 5600rpm so I also had a Hydro in 22in in my stash of props so I put that on to try.

[Charles Prestridge]

Thanks for keeping us along for the ride of your adventures. Your time spent posting is much appreciated.

You may be on the verge of having too much to do

[rojoguio]

Thanks for keeping us along for the ride of your adventures. Your time spent posting is much appreciated.

You may be on the verge of having too much to do

Too Funny! I've got to say the Solas Hydro propeller is the ticket for these Legacy boats designed for the older, much lighter, 2-Stroke engines. So the 115 Yamaha on the VL100 Blazer was really stern heavy and the Hydro was the ticket and this Skeeter was designed for a 240# outboard no jackplate.
I have a 320# E-Tec 90 3 cyl with a 5in setback jackplate on it. With the cranking battery installed in the bow Livewell space (not a livewell anymore) to move the Longitudinal center of gravity forward & modern trolling motor on the front it floats with me in the helm seat where the water is right under the splashwell drain holes.

That said I put the 22in Solas Hydro on before heading out yesterday and when testing the Skeeter ran 47mph @ 5400rpm. That is the best this engine has ever pushed a boat. I fished using the seat base I already added up front near the bow and offset seat pin right up on the bow but had a additional 6in seat pin for height extension added. It worked so well and clears the deck behind me so well I don't think I'm going to replace the rusted seat base. I have a 36in seat pin on my welding table this morning to cut & weld a 6in offset into it plus add the extra 6 inches in height. I think that's going to do it for me on rigging this boat for now. Totally opened the bow casting deck up. A square foot of gained space is a premium in these little boats.

[Charles Prestridge]

You are incredible.

Good info about the Solas Props. I have never used one.

[rojoguio]

I tried the Hand Control Trolling Motor and decided a Foot Control is what I have to go back to. Too much effort was needed when I already know how to use a foot control. Well when I went out last Sunday to smack some Tacos after swapping to a foot control TM onto the boat the foot control was sliding all over the "carpet-less" deck.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 1.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 2.JPG

Now the front deck carpet is just laying there. The Cockpit deck is still glued. Both fit so well I want to save them for patterns.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 3.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 8.JPG


I don't fight the carpet removal a scraper on a Sawsall zips it right up without stretching or tearing.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 5.JPG

I had to tie up the Hot Foot as I worked up under the console area.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 6.JPG

Once the carpet is up on these older bass boats the glue just needs to be kinda cleaned off. I have to move the boat around into the other shop where all the "dirty" work happens.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 7.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 4.JPG


Got my first two pattern pieces off. The duct tape was used to hold the carpet stretched to fit.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 9.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 10.JPG

The front deck was already cleaned off and now the Cockpit Floor has been run over with the scraper first then some 40 grit sandpaper on a DA sander. A damp wipe down and I'm ready to install new carpet. Oh, there must have been 5 pounds of sand in the Cockpit Floor carpet. More later.

[rojoguio]

Got right back on the Skeeter this morning after a trip to Home Depot for some Adhesive Remover #747.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 11.JPG

I pulled the Aft Hatches, there was a plastic TrimLoc piece on the bottom of both hatches. The TrimLoc inserts have rusted and swollen the plastic outer body to the point I'm going to radius the bottoms of the hatches and just wrap the lip with carpet like they do boats today.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 12.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 13.JPG

Removing the Hardware was first.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 14.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 15.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 16.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 18.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 19.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 20.JPG

The wood block and clamp really held the hatch lids well. When using a Sawsall for this and to prevent the scraper from digging in be sure and use the tool with the bevel up.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 21.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 22.JPG

I spread a tarp down on the shop floor before unfolding & unrolling the replacement carpet upside down to layout the pattern pieces. Maintaining the direction of the carpet grain so all the pieces will have the grain running in the same direction is very important. With this layout I will have enough carpet remaining to do the Aft Compartment when I feel like it. Using a "Everything" marking pen I traced the pattern pieces allowing 1-2 inches extra for fitting later. Once traced all the pieces was cut out.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 23.JPGRe Carpeting the Skeeter 24.JPG

Taking the carpet job to the next level I ordered a carpet edge binding sample color card to get as close to a exact match as I can with the binding. Once I had the color I placed a order so it binding will come in next week. My plan is to fit and bind all the edges of the carpet that is seen. The 1-1/4in Binding attachment for my Walking Foot machine was a little tight so I had to bend it open a bit so the carpet would pass thru it.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 25.JPG

You mix the #747 Adhesive Remover 1:1 with warm water. Right now I have the Rod Locker hatch setup and soaking in the shop with a good spraying of the mixture. It doesn't work fast, I will post a working time so others get an idea of what to expect. So far on the old glue on this Skeeter I'm not impressed but it may be such old glue.

[rojoguio]

Once I finish this carpet job I will pull the Blazer back out and finish the canvas work so the Arch can be installed. The Carbs are still limiting its ability to idle. They need more work. I would have left the 115 on it but can't get insurance. Without insurance I can't leave it off site in a rental boat shed, they require insurance.

[rojoguio]

Well after reviewing the pdf from the manufacturer #747 does not do all adhesives. If your carpet was installed using a waterbased adhesive that was troweled on in the application you will probably have success using this adhesive remover.

That said I have been wetting this Rod Box lid for 2 days with #747 and it has not touched the glue used to secure the carpet to the lid. I expect the glue is contact cement but not sure. The deck glues was applied with a trowel.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 26.JPG

The gasket scraper was removing the glue with much effort which was still hard after 2 days so I rinsed the lid off and tomorrow I will use the automotive adhesive remover I have shown several times on posts across this website. It removes every kind of adhesive but is a solvent based mixture.

Bottom line before you spend $30 for a gallon of #747 you need to know what kind of adhesive residue you are looking to remove.

[Brianmoore25]

Well after reviewing the pdf from the manufacturer #747 does not do all adhesives. If your carpet was installed using a waterbased adhesive that was troweled on in the application you will probably have success using this adhesive remover.

That said I have been wetting this Rod Box lid for 2 days with #747 and it has not touched the glue used to secure the carpet to the lid. I expect the glue is contact cement but not sure. The deck glues was applied with a trowel.

Re Carpeting the Skeeter 26.JPG

The gasket scraper was removing the glue with much effort which was still hard after 2 days so I rinsed the lid off and tomorrow I will use the automotive adhesive remover I have shown several times on posts across this website. It removes every kind of adhesive but is a solvent based mixture.

Bottom line before you spend $30 for a gallon of #747 you need to know what kind of adhesive residue you are looking to remove.

Try using the 747 uncut. Just wondering if it would help. It was contact adhesive that I used it on and it worked very good. I would like to know for my future projects also.

[rojoguio]

Try using the 747 uncut. Just wondering if it would help. It was contact adhesive that I used it on and it worked very good. I would like to know for my future projects also.

The Automotive adhesive remover softened it right up. The mfrs website says it's not a universal adhesive remover. I bought a gallon and tried it but whatever glue was used on the last re-carpet was not a indoor/outdoor carpet glue. I'm going to post the pile of glue I removed off of one hatch later today. I've seen videos of installers using 747 with great success.

[Brianmoore25]

What is the automotive adhesive remover you use? I'm interested in all options with the number of carpet jobs I do. I wish you were closer to Jackson. Gonna be there all next week. I'd love to see this project in person. You're the man for sure.

[rojoguio]

I'm there all the time on The Rez but this boat stays home. The 184DC Champion is on the Rez in storage so I don't have to pull a boat up. I fish there during the week and try to leave at the latest on Fridays.