Used 2009 Skeeter 20i inspection checklist

[Kzaker]

Not sure where to ask this but:
I have not been on the forums in a while: work, life, old skeeter went to a new home.
Im going to look at a 09 20i with a bad motor but want advice (any and all) on exactly what to look for that I might miss. Things specific to (and not specific to) the 20i of that vintage and even the obvious so I have a comprehensive list. I’ll include what my plan is:

Walk deck and lids for weak spots, check tightness
Check lid shocks (expensive little devices)
stress cracks in obvious places like corners on the cap
Stress/impact marks or indications on the rub rail area around the cap
Cracks on the back “balloon” areas where skeeters crack in the corners
Wiring under dash and in general
Pumps: live well and bilge
Dash Functions
Graphs function
trolling motor
Wobbled holes at jackplate
i believe it has a keel guard on it so looking for damage isn’t likely there
Steering hyd leaks
Fuel tanks fastened (older 202’s had an issue)
check/clean bilge look for signs of breakdown.
Check hull for signs of impact
I know the EZ-LOADER trailers are prone to rust/rot so expecting that.
Even though the owner claims 1 CYL lost compression, I’m going to ask for it to start on ears.
goes into forward and reverse.
No prop wobble
Associated motor gauges operational
Tilt/Trim operate from both locations (3 if equipped)
Leaks on T/T unit
I’ve heard the dash controls on some boats(don’t remember which era) have lost function?

im going from a 1999 ZX202 with a 200EFI Merc to this 09 20i with the 250hdpi vmax
Given that repower is going to happen; what is the motor upgrade that I’d get the most value from? Or just repower with same motor? I have a line on the same motor for sale locally at a marina.

thanks for any and all advice before I make this trip in hopes of being back on the water again!

Regards

[MichAngler]

I believe it has a "Brain Box" and if the touch pad is not functioning correctly this is most likely the cause
There is an aftermarket company that sells them (not cheap)

Pull the center part of the rub rail on both sides of the nose and look for lose or broken screws – bring a Philips screw driver and just see if you can turn the screws – 1/4 to 1/2 is excitable
If you find some look at screws at the stern as well

Stress cracks just below rub rail on either side near consoles

Play/lose steering wheel

Check brake fluid level

Check tire codes for age

[Kzaker]

Any idea what would indicate non functional brain box and/or panel? Would it be something like inop nav lights, pumps don’t react to switches, POWER switch doesn’t activate or deactivate devices?

[All Bites Matter]

i put a 2024 250 SHO on mY 21i now and traded my old motor in. Check the main pivot pin busing on the motor you can do this by grabbing the skeg and lifting up on it and if it wabbles up and down the bushings are bad. Mine were bad for 10 years just greased it a lot. and told the dealer when I traded it in they were bad. As for the hull. Check the DMS system. Get the lock code and see if the alarm/locks work. If they don't its probably the eye's that are on the lockers easy repair. Make sure all the DMS panels work. ( Consol/Bow) I would also ask if the Brain Box has been changed. They go bad after many years. Not a big deal you can still get them. Normal cracking for the hull is up by the front cleats on bolts sides. check the trailer tongue pivot area for bad cracking and wear. This can be fixed but is common. Also check the front roller mount for cracking. They crack from power loading, and you have to have them welded. I love my I class had very minimal issues and rides/looks great.