Wanting to delete the VRO as it appears it is malfunctioning (Horn blows a single time consistently when running but there is oil and bulb is tight) Been thinking about bypassing just in case for a while now. Question is what fuel pump should I be using? There is a pulse line going into the VRO but I have seem some pumps where this is removed and the new fuel pump is bolted to the head. Not sure the best route.
The engine model number is TE115TLEND.
See this artical on VRO operation. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
this will help with isolating your problem before making a decision. It is a very good explanation on the system.
Go to https://www.maxrules.com/ for more info on VRO rebuild parts as well as the VRO elimination parts. I got my non-VRO fuel pump from there, and he was good at trouble shooting a fuel leak issue about a year later via e-mail. To me, if you can eliminate the VRO (newer oil injected systems can’t do this), you have the piece of mind that you know that oil is getting mixed in (if you are good about doing this) and save space in the bilge for an extra battery or hydraulic shallow water anchor pump—this is a real problem for some of us with smaller, older bass boats.
1985 Skeeter SF-175 & 1985 Evinrude 150 XP (with VRO removed)
2x Humminbird 1199 with Humminbird 360 and Side Imaging & Garmin Echomap UHD 93sv with LVS32
Minn Kota Ultrex 80 45" DCS Advanced GPS
Millennium Spyderlok Crappie Rod holders (this boat is primarily used for crappie fishing)
Originally Posted by jjue1979
Perfect, this is exactly the information I was needing!
As long as the fuel side is working, add premix to the gas tank to get it going thru the system. Then simply disconnect the oil feed line and plug it or remove completely, disconnect the wiring harnesses for the pump and oil tank and cap off the inlet. No need to spend the extra $$ if the fuel side is still working.
++ to Championman man too. The VRO has been working for over 30 years. In the end it is your wallet.
I did go ahead and removed the VRO and all seems to be good other than the idle. With muffs on in the driveway the idle speed is at 1100 and I think prior to that it was around 750-800. If anyone can share any thoughts that would be greatly appreciated. Engine seems to run better and not stalling/stumbling at idle as before ( it was pretty cold natured at startup before). Just a quick choke when cold and it idles fine, just a little to high.
They will idle high without back pressure from the lake water. Did you install a new premix pump or just cap off the oil side?
Just capped off the oil side. It idled lower out of the water with the muffs just the day before the removal of the VRO. Not sure if the air fuel mix needs to be adjusted and if so what the procedure would be
Carbs aren't adjustable all fixed orifices.
Did you premix the oil to the fuel and run it prior to disconnecting the oil side?
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