Bad day for me

[EuropeanAM]

Vise-grips would be my next choice.

[Bob G.]

Back at it today. Can’t get the broken bolts to budge. I tried end cutters, but the bolts are a little short to get a good grasp. Tried vise grips and another tool, they slip off. Also tough to do anything as the compressor plate rotates. I took the snap ring off and tried to pry the plate up but that didn’t work out and put the snap ring back on. My thought process was that it would be easier to work on it in my garage and not on top of the motor.

Any ideas? I have a Dremel tool and can put flats an the broken bolts. Also have a small extractor tool set that I used to use at work. The bolts are grade 10.9 and I’m worried the extractor might break off. If so, it would be time for a new compressor.

[lpugh]

Bob, get a cobalt left hand 5/32 driil bit, small center punch or use the dremmal tool to make a very small center for drilling, use a 1/8 drill bit to make pilot hole, drill at very low speed with a small low torque drill motor, then us the left hand 5/32 bit in a reversable drill motor, slow speed. the drilling will heat the metal and probably extract the broken part, then use an easy out if needed.
A machine shop could easily cut them out with a carbide mill. I do it this quite often

[Bob G.]

Bob, get a cobalt left hand 5/32 driil bit, small center punch or use the dremmal tool to make a very small center for drilling, use a 1/8 drill bit to make pilot hole, drill at very low speed with a small low torque drill motor, then us the left hand 5/32 bit in a reversable drill motor, slow speed. the drilling will heat the metal and probably extract the broken part, then use an easy out if needed.
A machine shop could easily cut them out with a carbide mill. I do it this quite often

Thanks Leon. With the snap ring removed, can the plate be removed to work on it separate from the compressor?

[Savage]

I would mig weld nuts onto each stud. The heat from welding frees the threads. I've done this hundreds of times even on studs that are completely flush.

[Bob G.]

I would mig weld nuts onto each stud. The heat from welding frees the threads. I've done this hundreds of times even on studs that are completely flush.

Thanks for the idea Savage. I looked online earlier for a 5/32 left hand cobalt drill bit locally, couldn’t find one. I don’t have a mig welder. Might have to remove the whole air compressor to work on it.

Since I failed to make any headway this morning, I started my winterizing checklist. I couldn’t run the motor, so I used the rear flush port with the compressor strainer out.

Edit: Since I can’t attach the pulley to the compressor, I turned it with a big pair of Channellock tongue and groove pliers. It would turn easy, then build a little pressure than get easy again. I thought the test was to rotate the pulley and build enough pressure within 3 revolutions and not be able to turn again. Not even sure if it’s good at this point.

[FeFanatic]

I have in the past drilled holes in broken bolts and driven a torx socket into the hole to extract the bolts. You just have to drill small enough to tightly fit the torx socket. It grips great and my success rate is almost 100%

[lpugh]

Thanks Leon. With the snap ring removed, can the plate be removed to work on it separate from the compressor?

here ya go.
Amazon.com : 5/32 left hand drill bit

[Bob G.]

Thanks Leon and Fe. I ordered the 5/32 left hand drill bits from Amazon. I try to buy local but couldn’t find anything. I just saw that HF has a screw extractor and left hand drill bit set but doesn’t say it has cobalt.

I’ll try to grind the broken bolts flat so it’s easier to center punch.

[EuropeanAM]

I've had really good results from getting it cherry-red and melting some bees-wax (or a crayon) at the threads. Wicks down in there and does wonders.

If worst comes to worst, send us a picture of the crank hub top and side. Might just have a couple dozen of those hubs.

[Bob G.]

Update: Life gets in the way sometimes. See attached pics.

Removed the air compressor today. I figured if the compressor is trashed, then there is no sense working on the broken bolts. The end cap connecting rod is rough on part of it. The back side of the reed plate has black stuff on it but it doesn't appear to be metal shavings. Not sure what it is since I've never taken the air compressor apart. I should have loosened the end cap and cylinder head bolts while it was attached to the motor. Live and learn. Any thoughts?

End cap assy.jpg
Inside compressor.jpg
Reed plate back side.jpg
Reed plate front side.jpg
Cylinder.jpg
Cylinder head.jpg

[EuropeanAM]

Compressor is trashed. Rails and injectors should be cleaned and validated before running it with a replacement compressor.

[Bob G.]

Thanks Don, that was my thought as well. I’ll work on getting everything removed.

[Bob G.]

Should I replace the oil filters along with the air compressor? Anything else?

[smoken86]

Definitely replace the filters

[SilverFox579]

Definitely replace the filters

Yes.

[krindgen]

Make sure you use RED LIQUID LOCTITE when reassembling. We saw a lot of this back in the mid 2000's where "pre-applied paste threadlocker" was being relied on solely.

Locate all the pieces- inspect for any debris (good idea to check intake as well as the compressor head/reeds for debris), reassemble, check compressor, new belt, etc and see how she does.

Fixed a number of them with this back in the day, usually weren't too terrible. As long as all the junk stayed out of the "reserved for rotation internal passages" of the engine.

Those precoated bolts have a shelf-life. Project I'm working on, we purged all of them after disassembling a few and the coating was powder.

[Bob G.]

I ordered an air compressor and 2 oil filters from European Marine yesterday. I haven't taken the fuel rails and hoses off yet, will do when I back from a trip.

Observation with the compressor oil hoses: The oil hose to the compressor had a radius ty-wrap but the two oil return oil hoses had no ty-wraps. Do the oil return oil hoses need ty=wraps? Thanks.

[EuropeanAM]

No harm in using them, but they're usually not needed on this line/location.

[Bob G.]

Thanks Don.