I am having issues with my bow graph on low voltage alarms. Battery appears to be good. I suspect it could possibly be my battery cutoff switch? Any suggestions on a quality marine switch? Thank you!
I am having issues with my bow graph on low voltage alarms. Battery appears to be good. I suspect it could possibly be my battery cutoff switch? Any suggestions on a quality marine switch? Thank you!
With the graph operating on it maximum setting, measure the voltage at the switch input point and then at the switch output point. This will tell you if the switch is the problem, part of the problem or not the problem.
measure the voltage across the two connectors on the switch, should be less than .6 volts for that ckt with all devices turned on.
if more than that replace it with bussman or blue seas switch/breaker
this is called voltage drop test, easy and a more reliable way of testing
Thank You Leon Pugh
The real question is "Why do you think your battery is good?" Why do you suspect switch? Not much to go wrong with a simple switch.
I would never suspect the switch. More likely battery and/or connections.
Thank you for all the suggestions! Much appreciated! Yes, it could be the battery, but I doubt it as it cranks over my Optimax fine. Will report back after I find out what it is.
Cheap and easy switch test: Bypass it temporarily.
One thing isolated.
Doubt that the problem, but you'll know.
Hard to be accurate without knowledge of how you are wired, but this idea will isolate the switch.
Thank you! It's wired using a Sea Clear harness from the cranking battery to the cutoff switch and to the console graph and to the bow graph. Will keep you posted on what it ends up being. The negative side of the harness is on the negative post of my battery (X2 AGM) and the positive side of the battery to the input and the harness on the switch output. I guess it's possible the connection to my graph is dirty and or loose? Didn't want to pull my foot pedal tray, but might have to for access to my wiring? Appreciate everyone's help!Originally Posted by MCIPinkie
Had the same problem. Pulled a dedicated wire from the battery to the bow. Think I used 10 gauge duplex marine wire. Also installed a breaker in the bilge to protect said wire. Problem gone. Might not be your issue, but just a suggestion.
Are you saying using a Sea Clear harness you bypassed it to fix your problem? If so, then Sea Clear should replace the harness.
sea clear is a very poor system and connectors are junk, follow my guidelineMFDSYSTEM.jpg to do it right the first time,
Thank You Leon Pugh
sea clear is a very poor system and connectors are junk, follow my guideline to do it right the first time,
switch to mounted at battery, fuse to go in right rod locker against consol upright
MFDSYSTEM.jpg
Thank You Leon Pugh
Thanks Leon! I know you do quality work!
I still recommend the low amperage fuses at the devices.
why would you want to add additional resistance to the circuit? just like your car one proper fuse at a central location is always the best way
Thank You Leon Pugh
Boats are not cars. Fuse panels are a high failure point. Run one if it makes you feel good, but still incorporate the low amperage device fuse at the transition from the heavy to light gage wire of the factory plug. I also recommend shortening the factory pigtail.
FYI:
I ran an 8 ga pair from a master switch at my battery to a Blue Seas fuse box in the port rod locker. Close enough to my units that I was able to shorten some of the factory wires.
Big fuse, can't remember size, at batteries, then fuses in the fuse box appropriate for each unit. Helix 10, Mega 360, Mega Live 1, Target Lock. Ionic 125 lithium.
No issues.
IMHO, that is the best way to get power to the bow. The manufactured harnesses, Sea Clear for example, are over priced. I hear lots of opinions on quality. I know I can do as well, or better. Of course, I have the tools and talent to run wires.
You need to protect your units.
Fuse individually per the manual.
A 30 amp fuse at the battery won't protect your $3,000 unit.
READ THE MANUAL !!
I don’t think anyone is recommending not using a low amperage fuse (mfg recommended rating) for the devices. It is just the location which is either at the device’s pigtail connection or at a remote located fuse box. My recommendation is not to make a run of heavy gage wire after the low amperage fuse in the fuse box to the small gage wire of the factory pigtale & plug without a fuse at that transition.
Last edited by leo13; 04-15-2025 at 09:55 AM.
Update! Had a chance today to look into my low voltage issue. Leon! You were correct on the Sea Clear connectors. The connector for my bow graph basically had loosened up and fell off in my hand! Inspected the rest of the connections and tightened up a couple more. I called Sea Clear and they do have great customer service! Eventually, I will make a modification to the harness connectors to a better system. Thank you to all who replied! Much appreciated!
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