Done the compression test today and all six were from 55-60 on all six. This was cold.
Isn't that really low? If thats the case what's the next order of business? Top End work, powerhead bored, cleaned up new piston rings, etc.?
I am going to try another guage just to make sure.
Modified by Mr205 at 7:36 PM 9/23/2009
It's easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission.
Sure is real low!!! Warm up the motor(not generally necessary although recommended) and retest the compression. Should be closer to 100 ft-lbs for sure. Could be an inaccurate gage also. How many hours on the motor and what information such as MPH at WOT including prop pitch and water pressure can you provide? Might want to have a leak down test done which will identify any specific cylinder culprit. Good luck and keep the information coming.
I'll give a run down of what I've got and what I've done so far. The boat is a 2000 Procraft 205DC 2000 Motor 225 EFI, 25p Laser II
No water pressure guage on this boat.
I do not know how many hours are on the motor. I do know that I am the third owner however.
I bought the boat in March of this year. The motor runs fine as far as not missing or cutting out. When I bought the boat I fished a tourney out of it and used alot more gas than I thought I should use. The motor was set at 6 inches below the pad and I've read and figured that out to be way deep. So my father and I moved the motor up with the jackplate to 3 3/4 below which is where it is at right now. With the motor deep (6in) I had no rooster tail at all, the water was flat in the back. Now I have a rooster tail that is about cowling high.
I didnot gps it with it 6 inches below but did at 3 3/4 below. THe boat was full of fuel (45 gal) dad and I, tourney load and it was 62.1 WOT at 5800 rpms. THe water was flat also.
I have never set up a boat before so I am all ears on any suggestions. I have been told to try a 25 p tempest but that's 400 bucks to "try". I just can't do that. And a loaner in this area is non-existent.
It just feels like my boat is nose heavy and it's not getting up on the pad. The front end isn't loaded down heavy at all rods and few worm boxes is all. When I'm at WOT, trimmed up, I can look down over the side and see spray as far up as my grear shift.
We are going to try a different guage to see what kind of numbers we get out of it. I am guessing that even though the numbers were low they were still close together.
If anything else let me know and I can try to provide that info.
I wouldn't care if my boat only runs 62 mph if it was set up right but I just think something is either wrong or not right yet.
It's easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission.
I have an 2001 210 Super Pro with a 3.0 225 EFI. Very similar boat and motor.
When I bought it, the compression was in the 115 to 120 psi range. Do the test again with the motor hot, throttle open and all of the plugs removed. If you really do have 60psi for compression its time for a rebuild.
From the RPM your turning its sounds like the motor is healthy though. The Lazer II is not a good prop from what I've heard. My boat came with a 26p Trophy plus and ran about 70 MPH at 5600 and handled good. I have switched to a 26p TXP 3 blade and now run 74 MPH but handling is not so good. I picked up that prop used twice on Ebay for $180 shipped.
I tried a used Fury, it ran 68 mph and the bow ran flat and porpused at high speed, kind of like what you describe with the Lazer your running. I had it blueprinted and more cup added to produce more bow lift. It ran 72.5 MPH and handled great and the bow was being lifted properly.
I was told the stock Fury does not have enough bow lift for this nose heavy hull design and that is what I experienced.
From what I have researched the Trophy plus has tons of bow lift and is the best all around prop for these boats. You may want to look for a used 25P Trophy in the Props4sale section or on EBay. I hear the older Trophy props like to break blades so make sure to get a newer version with the torq-flow hub and PVS holes.
A Tempest would also be a much better choice than the Lazer but I have not run one so I can't comment. I saw one in the Props4Sale forum that sounds inexpensive. You may be able to turn a 26P considering your boat is a tad shorter than mine with the same motor and mine turns a 26 all day long.
Modified by NoSloProcraft at 10:41 PM 9/23/2009
Mercury 3.0l 225EFI
2001, 0T264057
250XB Fuel ECU
300PM ING ECU
Lightened Flywheel
63cc heads
Boyesen 2stage reeds
Cowl mod
Recheck that compression with:
1. Engine WARM
2. Throttle plates WIDE OPEN
3. FULLY CHARGED, PROPERLY RATED BATTERY
4. Kill switch removed and plug wires grounded or connected to spark tester
5. KNOWN ACCURATE GAUGE.
60 psi is obviously not accurate.... engine would barely run (if at all).
I would also STRONGLY recommend a water pressure gauge. It's nearly impossible to properly set your engine mounting height without it.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Ok, found a different pressure guage and ran another test with the motor warm, and the steps described above.
Here's what they were: 1--105 2--105 3--108 4--105 5--103 6--110
I'm guessing compression is good. So it would be in my best interest to find a prop and install a water pressure guage and start attempting to set this boat up.
Thanks for all the info, it was greatly appriciated.
Matt
It's easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission.
Sure makes sense now!! Move forward with all other prop tests,etc, since you most likely have removed the motor issue possibility out of the equation at this point. Would like to hear the results of further testing. Thanks. Good luck.
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