Nitro Z19 - power switch questions

[Lezm001]

I bought a 2018 Nitro Z19 with a Mercury 200 hp Optimax engine. My question is related to power to fire up that engine. The boat has a 3 position power switch. Position 1 - starting battery. Position 2 - just one of the trolling motor batteries. Position 3 - both starting battery and one of the trolling motor batteries. When I try to start the motor in position 1 - it will not turn over and all power to the boat accesories goes dead. If I move the switch to position 3 - I can start the motor. Should the motor be able to start from just the starting battery? I assume this means my starting battery doesn't have enough cranking amps to start the motor. This is my first boat with a setup like this and this is probably a rookie question but hoping someone can clarify how it should work.

[bassfisher444]

Yes the starting battery should start the motor, it is probably weak. Also I am not a fan of having the motor cables ran through a switch, I always hook my motor cables directly to the battery then put all of the other accessories on a switch.

[Andrebass]

You should be able to start the motor in position 1, If motor doesn't start then you can move to position 3 and have one trolling motor battery jump the starting battery. If you have to use position 3 every time, then starting battery is too weak and should be replaced or made sure it is charged properly.

Position 2 turns on power to the power switch on the console. That power switch controls everything tied to it. (Lights, radio, Fish finders, etc...)

[Lezm001]

Thanks for the feedback. The starting battery is a tracker lithium, I'm guessing it isn't the right battery type for a starting be attery and weak. So just a clarifying question, of my starting battery is good, I should be able to switch to position one and keep it their all the time? I should only go to position 2 or 3 only if needed in an emergency?

[Lezm001]

Just a clarification, when the power switch is in position 1 (starting battery only), I do have power at the console and all electronics.

[bassinloose]

Just a clarification, when the power switch is in position 1 (starting battery only), I do have power at the console and all electronics.

position 2 should put power to the breaker panel under console windshield. Therefore running all additional accessories. Position 1 should just run motor trim. some boats run the gauges and dash lights. Position 3 emergency use only.

[Lezm001]

A learning a lot. I'm surprised that one of the trolling motor batteries is relied on to supply power to the electronics. That battery must be the weakest link in the 36 volt trolling motor system?

[bassfisher444]

A learning a lot. I'm surprised that one of the trolling motor batteries is relied on to supply power to the electronics. That battery must be the weakest link in the 36 volt trolling motor system?

It shouldn't be, the trolling motor batteries should only power the trolling motor. If you have electronics hooked to a trolling motor battery unhook them and wire them to the starting battery.

[Andrebass]

Let's clarify one item here.
This switch is called a master switch
Position 1 is OFF Position 2 is ON.
These two positions on certain boats (not all boat are alike with this switch) controls the console switch.
If this switch is in position 2(ON) when the boat is not in use, the starting battery will die over a short time and needs to be recharged.
A safety device is on position 3(Jumper) If you kill the starting battery from a number of reasons You have the luxury of turning to this position and using one trolling battery as an emergency jumper.

With the master off, you should be able to operate the trim from the throttle and the motor itself. You can start the motor and drive the boat, gauges will work, but not the lights on the gauges. Once the master is ON and the console power switch is on, then the fish finders will work along with the trim button at the bow, all the livewell functions and anything else on the control board on the right side of the steering wheel.

Are you sure you have the correct charger for the lithium?

[HiTorq]

Well there's been several explanations of this switch, and all are right except they are not how Nitro rigs this switch.

Position Off - Nothing will work except the trolling motor. No engine trim, no accessories nothing.

Position 1 - Cranking battery. This will power everything in the boat except the trolling motor.

Position 2 - Trolling motor battery. This again, will work just like position 1 but your pulling power from the last trolling motor batter to power the rest of the boat.

Position 3 - Which if I remember correctly says 1+2 on it. It's basically a jump start. You now have your cranking battery and your last trolling motor battery in parallel.

Nitro used this switch for about 3-4 years, then went to single on/off/jump, switch, and currently they are using just a single master on/off, and giving people a NOCO jump pack with the new boats.

If this motor was at new 4S it would be different in that the motor would function without the switch being on due to the 4S require clean power line and the motor to be connected directly to the battery.

Also something to consider, the Tracker Lithiums are famous for "going into sleep mode" try hooking a regular old fashion manual charger up to it for about 15-30 minutes to see if it will wake up.

[Lezm001]

Very grateful for all the feedback. My boat appears to be setup exactly as Hitorq has stated. I'm going to pull the Tracker Lithium battery out to have it tested. I'm currently able to run all electronics, gaugues, trim the motor, lights, etc. with the tracker lithium. It just doesn't appear to have enough cranking apps to fire the motor. the charger on the boat is a 4 bank minn kota precision charger. It does not have a lithium charging mode so I've read to use AGM charging mode on the Lithium. Maybe part of the problem is that this lithium battery hasn't been charged properly with the current charger.