is there a good way of making crankbait suspend without putting a ton of strips or dots on them?
Modified by whoza_daddy at 9:48 AM 11/13/2010
is there a good way of making crankbait suspend without putting a ton of strips or dots on them?
Modified by whoza_daddy at 9:48 AM 11/13/2010
Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!
a trick i use on a husky jerk( i know it already suspends ) to get it to run deeper, is to change to bigger hooks...i can get a 2 hook hj to 10 ft...![]()
on the old style balsa baits, we used to drill a hole in the front just below the bill and epoxy in a bullet weight...now they sell them that way....
I have a few old Poe's that I want make suspend
Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!
drill a small hole deep enough to place a few bbs then epoxy over
Cheaper to keep a kid in tourney fishing than paying attorneys to keep them out of jail !!
Try wrapping solder around the front treble as it is a easy non-permanent solution. The suspend dots are a PITA to remove or they fly off for me. Drilling and adding weight I would only do if you have experience ballasting cranks or are willing to ruin some baits learning.
Allen
That is what they used to do at table rock with the origional rapalas to make them suspend.
Drill a hole in between the front hook hanger and the lip, and insert a drop shot weight....keep cutting the weight off until you get it to just barely float/suspend. Then remove the weight and make the hole deep enough to accept the entire piece of lead. Put some epoxy over the weight hole.
Chris
I've weighted quite a few and repaired alot that have been weighted improperly, when testing the bait after inserting your weight keep in mind the water temp in the bucket or where ever your testing at as it makes a huge difference in weighting your crank, imho![]()
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Ky Z21 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I've weighted quite a few and repaired alot that have been weighted improperly, when testing the bait after inserting your weight keep in mind the water temp in the bucket or where ever your testing at as it makes a huge difference in weighting your crank, imho</td></tr></table>
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Yup, and I don't recommend just drilling the hole wherever also. I've suspended quite a few, and every bait is different. It really takes some trial/error to get the weight placed correctly; otherwise the bait will suspend crooked. (unless that's what you want?)
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Also, I like using my dremel and a tiny drill bit, just big enoug to sneak in, pieces of those tiny bait weights. Breaking off just the right # of pieces is critical.
And remember too, if the epoxy/glue you use is thick and heavy, that will add extra weight. Enough so, that youmay have it where you think it will suspend perfectly, then that extra epoxy will sink it.![]()
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If the hole you drilled is small enough, you can take a large toothpick, insert it into the hole, and snap it off flush. Then drip your epoxy/superglue on the hole. Without something for the adhesive to wick into/bind to; the epoxy/glue will fall right into the bait. Then, unless you hang it to dry (with the hole facing down); the epoxy wants to suspend in the hole. But, then again, if the epoxy/glue is too thin, it'll run right out.
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Take notes along the way of how many pieces of weight you put in; etc. OR better yet, get a digital scale that is very sensitive. Cause if you get one right and want to do it again; without good notes/measurements, you're back to square one.
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It's interesting what a delicate balance it is to get the bait to suspend properly, then perform properly too. The weight you inserted has to rest in just the right spot in the belly of the bait.
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Be patient, it's not as simple as some have posted. Unless you want a lure paperweight or keychains.I've got a ton of 'em.
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Why not use the lead tape then paint and seal over it?