Fly wheel removal

[Lockjaw]

Is there something I need to be aware of? I mean if I loosen the bolt, and have a puller deal, is there anything I can screw up taking it off or on?

I need to replace my voltage regulator.

Do I have to reset the timing, can I do that without a test wheel? Is it hard?

[THE WITCHDOCTOR]

Only thing I can think of is if the bolt holes stri p on the flywheel.... you will not need to retime, as you have changed nothing that will affect the timing as it is a keyed wheel....

[Lockjaw]

I figured I was ok with the timing. What bolts, isn't it just the big center one?

You know what I really need to do don't you? Buy another engine I can take apart and see how it works. Thats really the only way I am going to understand, either that or watch someone else do it.

[THE WITCHDOCTOR]

I use a steering gear puller that has 3 bolts that go in top of the flywheel on mine... yours might be different... I wouldn't reccomend using a 2 or 3 jaw puller as you could damage the outside starter ring.....

[Lockjaw]

I am not sure if mine is two or three, or if it goes wide enough yet. I guess I need to see if I can get the bolt loose with my electric impact gun too.

I got to get a tach working though.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lockjaw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am not sure if mine is two or three, or if it goes wide enough yet. I guess I need to see if I can get the bolt loose with my electric impact gun too.

I got to get a tach working though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That electric impact gun ain't going to do it. You "will" need a fly wheel turner as it is called in the automotive world, to hold the fly wheel and a long breaker bar to break the bolt loose.
I soaked mine over night with some penetrating oil to help with the loosen. I think the torque on that fly wheel bolt is between 140-145 ft lbs.
Maybe them young boys have a better idea but, that is way I done mine.
Oh by the way you might have to smack the top of the wheel puller bolt with a hammer to get the fly wheel to pop off after you tighten against it. Just be careful

[THE WITCHDOCTOR]

Mine pulled off with a impact... but a good one... and after I hammered and hammered the trigger on it... lol......

[RUSTY63]

Use the three threaded holes in the top of the flywheel to attach the puller bolts, I read your post Lock and it sounded like you were thinking of pulling from the outside of the flywheel, That wont work.

[Lockjaw]

So I have to use the holes in it? OK well I need a different puller then. Mine is for stuff like a harmonic balancer.

My impact is stout there Dofer. It will do flywheel bolts on a Nissan I6 and they are torqued pretty good. PLus I locktite mine. Don't want a flywheel coming loose while I am hotfooting it.

Why can't it just be on the side like older engines.

I got to get a BRP one, got the down low on that. I have CDI electronics now. My guy here says only use BRP electronics.

[RUSTY63]

I would agree with your guy there on the BRP only parts.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lockjaw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My impact is stout there Dofer. It will do flywheel bolts on a Nissan I6 and they are torqued pretty good. PLus I locktite mine. Don't want a flywheel coming loose while I am hotfooting it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Keep us posted on the effectiveness of that stout electric torque wrench. :roll eyes:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lockjaw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I got to get a BRP one, got the down low on that. I have CDI electronics now. My guy here says only use BRP electronics. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am running a few CDI parts also. I am sure I will use BRP when they go bad, or I will sporting a new E-Tec 150 HO.

[Lockjaw]

Yeah I figured you would like that. You must have BRP stock options or something.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lockjaw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I figured you would like that. You must have BRP stock options or something. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha ha ha, not exactly. But, to get that old XP running again after sitting unattended for 15 years, I replaced all of the electronic, except spark plug wires, coils and stator. A completely new oiling system (4-wire OMS) including new tank and hoses therefore, I had to ease the pain a tad bit by using some cheaper electrical stuff.
(Rusty is going to kill me. )
Through all of the pains of getting her running again. She has served me well crabbing and fishing for the past two years and the first three years it was a terror on the water beating most bass boats equipped with Merc 150's and it was pushing a 17.5 open bow run a bout.

[Lockjaw]

Well considering the price of gas, I like the idea of a working VRO, it would have to save me some money. Even when using the OMC XD25 oil, it still only takes 1.5 fill-ups to run through a gallon of oil, and thats a weekend at the lake for sure. Thats 12 bucks.

I could get Merc oil in bulk probably cheaper, but it seems to me the best thing to do is run OMC oil in an OMC. It doesn't smoke much.

Got to have a working tach though.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lockjaw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well considering the price of gas, I like the idea of a working VRO, it would have to save me some money. Even when using the OMC CD oil, it still only takes 1.5 fill-ups to run through a gallon of oil, and thats a weekend at the lake for sure. Thats 12 bucks.

I could get Merc oil in bulk probably cheaper, but it seems to me the best thing to do is run OMC oil in an OMC. It doesn't smoke much.

Got to have a working tach though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The VRO system does use less oil however, I am using the new four-wire OMS which does use a little more oil than the older VRO.

I stopped using leaded premium around the time when they took all the lead out of pump gas and OMC sent me a letter saying that it was ok to use unleaded gas in my XP.

Now my total time is set at 28 degrees instead of the factory recommended 30 degrees.

Hey have you got that flywheel off yet?