Bearing cap removal

[JFK67]

I have removed bearing caps before that have a lip on on end at the hub. These don't have one. Also center piece is plastic and not rubber. I don't want to start banging on cap or prying plastic because of possible damage. Looking to inspect grease and bearing. Anyone seen these?

2007 Triton tr200

Best way to remove? Thanks in advance!

[fishnfireman]

I use one of those orange plastic blow hammers-- tapping on the outer edge while turning hub.
Be sure the paint seal isn't holding.

[wmitch2]

It looks like whoever installed them used a black silicone to seal them. Use a soft or dead blow hammer and tap around on each side and pull on it with your hand and it will slowly "Walk" it's way off. Use a RV Silicone lightly around the cap when re-installing. Some also have a very light "O" ring also. Use a little grease or very light coat of silicone to hold it in place when Re-installing the cap too.

[DaveBrabec]

Should have a oring slot cut into it. But like said. Tap around edges

[JFK67]

Thanks gents, I will try the dead blow...gently!

[Lightning 6]

Those are UFP gold series oil bath hubs. Use a dead blow hammer and rotate the hub as you go along. Drain the oil first.

https://www.marinemastertrailers.com/pdfs/trailer_buddy_gold_service_manual.pdf

[JFK67]

Lightning 6 thanks for the info! That is exactly what I have. Never heard of an oil fill system for bearings but that's what I have. Did not notice the drain/fill plug in hub until just now. Well, since I do not have any issues, I think I will just drain the hub and put some fresh oil in it. I am going to leave the hub cap on since I do not know if its threaded or not. Maybe convert it one day to grease.

[xcoach]

I looked for those caps last week because I am doing some brake work, couldn’t find them so be careful removing them. I would recommend draining and refilling. I did that a couple of years back. I have a 03 trailer and 0 issues with leaks.

[Lightning 6]

No worries. The bearing covers are NOT threaded, they are an interference fit. I use valvoline 50wt racing oil. Try to get 100% if the air out, and refill them as close to 100% full as you can. I rotate my hubs from 10 to 2 as I refill them and use a straight pick/ punch to break surface tension to pop air bubbles….so I can get them completely full. Dexter has discontinued these hubs, but all the parts are the same as the vault hubs except the vault hub bearing cover sight glass/ piston is not transparent. Personally, I have mine covered so I just visibly check for leaks, monitor hub temps at every stop, and I change hub oil annually.

[xcoach]

Scott, thank you for posting that info about the hubs.

[JFK67]

Great advice, I was going to use Lucas hub oil but sounds like you have had success with the Valvoline 50 wt oil. The manufactures manual was specific about staying with 50 wt so I will. My ramp at the lake is only 5 miles away so I should be good for a while. Thanks again!

[catdude28]

I thought those were the oil bath hubs when I first saw the pic. I had those on my 06 Stratos trailer. If the seal is not leaking, just change the oil. When I had a leaking seal on one of mine, I tried three times to put on a new seal and everytime I did, the oil leaked. I finally just changed it to grease out of frustration.

[Lightning 6]

No worries, glad to help. Been running them since 2011 and have never had a idler hub over 95 degrees or a rotor hub over 120 degrees.

[krindgen]

Dead blow hammer, Harbor Fright has decent ones, and a 2x4. Man, prolly in the minority, my COOL hubs were absolutely flawless in 18yrs of ownership.

[davesz518]

I had these hubs on a 2002 Ranger......and ran it for 7 years. The only thing I did was maintain the hubs yearly with a 50 weight Valvoline Racing Oil change. The hardest part was finding the oil from a parts store in my area. I popped the air bubbles with a tooth pick while filling. Hubs were trouble free for me.