250 SHO + Lithium Starting Batt = Wasn’t Good

[Mattsuey]

i don't have a switch between them, i would assume the cranking battery would be getting charged by alternator while running

[yam911]

Thanks.

[rid 05 198]

So when it started kicking my motor off I put my helix on so I can watch voltage and all of that and it goes all over the place......13v all the way up to 17v and in between non stop.....it does it constantly..... and only does it once the battery is up to full charge....when it is not full charge its perfect at 13.4-13.5v steady no movement.

If it was me, I would not put the boat in the water and run around with it, with all that going on. Just me, I had a boat fire once...

[78Staff]

Another Ionic 125ah user with a '15/'16 VF225 SHO - no issues to date - running for about a year I guess. I have considered dropping my AGM back in as a starting battery and dedicating the 125ah for electronics, but not due to capacity issues. I just have this $500+ Northstar AGM 31 behemoth sitting in the garage going to waste. Would also put some weight back in the stern, as after going all lithium and multiple bow units, plus the tackle store I keep in the boat, I am a bit bow heavy now :).

Cons, well lifting that f&cker back into the bilge for one. But I'd also have to switch from a 4-bank to a 5 bank charger, or come up with some alternative charging addon for the 5th battery. Didn't bother with it during the summer, but now that fall is here I might make a project of it, esp if I find a good deal or Black Friday deal on a MK 5 bank charger.

I'm waffling back and forth on dropping the AGM back in as a starter. I don't really need the AGM for any capacity/runtime reasons - current setup of 125ah Lithium Starter and 3x50ah for trolling is plenty of juice - I've never come close to running them down - typically I'm still above 80% at the end of the day, maybe 70% on a long day on the water.

I was just thinking I've got this damn $500 battery just sitting in the garage going to waste. So I thought, put it back in, use it for boat/motor power, dedicate the 125ah to electronics only, and also get some weight back in the a$$ end of the boat. And, to abate any nagging concerns about using Lithium as a starter for the SHO, despite the numerous reports of folks using it with no issues.

But, it would put all that weight on the drivers side, which is already "heavy" compared to passenger side despite my best efforts to put as much weight as possible in the port lockers lol. Plus I would need to either add a combiner or switch to a 5 bank charger. Just more cost and complexity that really isn't needed... Plus it is a colossal pita to get it in the bilge, due to Skeeter's small hatch and transom transfer brackets. I can't even lift/maneuver it by myself, and would be paying shop to do it, since I am getting some other stuff done there Friday.

So, I am basically trying to talk myself out of it I guess lol...

[78Staff]

I think I'm going to bail on putting the AGM back in. I've had no issues with the Ionic 125ah as a starter, and have seen no real need for additional capacity. And don't relish adding 70lbs back on the drivers side either :(. Plus having to swap out chargers or add a combiner. ROI not really worth it in my case I feel.

Maybe down the road I'll add a 100ah Lithium dedicated for electronics IF I feel like I'm needed more capacity, ie in the summer running livewells all day.

But, I'm still getting the Bob's pro holeshot plate installed this am. Not sure how much difference it will actually make on the Bobs JP, but theoretically should clean up some of the noise at the surface on my transom side imaging, and maybe reduce some backsplash as well. These are all BMS claims, I haven't really found any reviews or discussions re the full coverage pro holeshot plate vs the oem that has the gaps around the edges. I'll do a separate thread after I run it though with some impressions...