Allison XB-21 ProSport
Yamaha 250 SHO
Croxton Razor 4XL
Update. I discovered a leak at the rear gland seals that were installed by a mechanic. Bought new oem ones and replaced them. So far so good.
When removing the leaking seal i discovered that the port side wasnt torqued down very well. Seal may have been fine but having already bled the system i replaced anyway.
Thanks for all the help
I flushed a whole bottle through mine. Found it much easier to bleed by just keep cranking the wheel slowly.
So my dead spot is back again. Ive replaced the gland seals, the shaft seal inside the cylinder, and the helm. After replacing the gland seals it seemed fine for a couple mobths then it came right back. Ive bled the system multiple times using the methods described here, and in seastars literature. There are no noticeable scratches on yhe shaft, and i dont see any fluid leakage.The deadspot is in the same place every time the problem comes back.
Is there any reason not to just replace the cylinder at this point? What else could it possibly be?
I ran into this in the past. It is the helm and the check valves not seating good anymore. Took the helm apart, rebuilt it. I Even stretched the springs a little. Also rebuilt the cylinder but the dead spot kept coming back. Had to replace the helm. Hope you can figure it out. Harry
Since you have tried just about everything else, my guess is there may be a scratch on the inside wall of the cylinder itself. The shaft o-ring seal may be wearing out over time as it keeps rubbing the scratch. At some point when the shaft seal is worn enough, this may be letting fluid “blow by” the o-ring seal from one side of the shaft to the other when it gets to that same spot. When I have to find very small scratches on anything, I use an old pair of my wife’s pantyhose. Those will “snag” on even the tiniest of scratches. You can run that along the shaft and on the inside of the cylinder and see if you get any snags. If it’s not that, I’m not sure what else it could be.
Good Luck
Have a Blessed Day,
Mike
Have you tried bleeding like is illustrated in the use of this bubble purge.? Might be worth looking into this.! https://outboardst.com/product/bubbl...t-ost-pbb-001/
Thanks for the replies, i will try looking for tiny scratches.
Clayshooter i have a cheaper version of that bleeding kit. That one looks much nicer but the fact is ive bled it dozens of times. Even if im not doing it right every tim, its odd that the problem is in the exact same spot in the steering everytime.
Since it seems like you've tried everything else, is there a chance your problem could be in the engine steering tube (or whatever it's called)? Easy to check by removing bolt at front connecting Seastar to engine and then turn engine by hand to feel for something (at different trim angles)....
Also, if you have tilt steering wheel you could check the knuckle and bronze bushing in the tilt assemble in case it's binding or sloppy...
Last edited by McQuaig; 12-06-2023 at 12:26 PM.
2002 Skeeter ZX200
2018 200SHO
This is a bad internal seal in the ram cylinder no doubt allowing oil to bypass just like failing master cylinder will act. Replace it with a U-Flex cylinder, far superior to seastar and you will be glad you did.
Thank You Leon Pugh
When mine fails and it will, this option would be my first choice! Being a machinist and working with one of the best hydraulic guy around I may just make my own! I trust hus decisions and he knows different type of seals and such. With the price of materials currently cost are high. I do believe the U-Flex is the best available. Where the piston runs wears, no doubt in the center(or around the center) plus listening to my hydraulic gentleman it is possible there is a better seal for the gland, who knows I do trust the gentleman I work with!
2013 Pantera 2
200 Pro XS (2b009069)
Ghost Trolling Motor
Thank You Leon Pugh