Trim Extenders

[BrownTrout]

I've noticed over the years that Todd over on the Setup Forum has always recommended trim extenders for Ranger boats, especially it seems, when running a Mercury Opti motor. Anyone understand the logic behind this?

[EuropeanAM]

I imagine it's due to the transom angle, PLUS the weight of the hull (additional trim angle may help with bow lift).

Incidentally, I DO NOT RECOMMEND TRIM EXTENDERS. They are DANGEROUS.

Instead, I'd recommend "Transom Wedges". Using a transom wedge (instead) allows your engine's trim angle to remain "within it's engineered design range".

Extending the "angle" of the trim beyond it's designed range can, and will, result in less "lateral support" of the engine between the transom brackets and the swivel bracket. This can result in undesirable handling characteristics, metal fatique or failure, and potentially, loss of control and/or injury to persons or property.

In other words... it's a "safety issue".

[John Jackson]

Just to add, if you can't trim out far enough, you really need more setback. The correct way is either add setback, so you don't need to trim way out, or add the wedges. With trim extenders, the motor will extend beyond the lateral supports, which is dangerous.

[Bass Commander]

Don mentioned wedges and I thought I would share a pic of my 2 degree wedges that Allison puts on their 21' bass boats...for those that arent familiar...

[MIZ-ZOU]

Aren't those wedges installed upside down for negative trim??

[TRCM]

My thoughts too....pls explain ?

[John Jackson]

They are installed the opposite of what most boats need. But on hulls with the proper amount of setback, more tuck gives a better holeshot. And the proper setback means that best speed is with the motor vertical, not trimmed way out.

I run them the same way on my Stroker.

[MIZ-ZOU]

I guess that this would make sense on light hulls that don't need the positive trim to get bow lift. Over trimming a Stroker or an Allison could get scary at the speeds that they run. It was just strange that someone would post a picture of reverse-mounted wedges in a post that talks about increasing trim.

[John Jackson]

What is actually trying to be achieved is to lift the bow for better performance. And there are several ways to do it. Think of it as a balancing act, with the boat balanced on the pad. Properly ballanced, the boat has good response to trim input.

You can lift the bow by: adding setback, prop work, adding additional trim, moving heavy stuff from bow to stern. Keep in mind adding trim can hurt holeshot, and many times you can't trim under enough to stop porposing. Probably half the wedged I've seen installed were adding more tuck for better holeshot. I didn't see anything wrong with that photo. He was just showing what a wedge looked like. But they can be installed either way.

Weight of boat is not that important when properly balanced. (Stroker hull 1250 lbs, 21' Bullet 1350lbs, 21' Allison 1400 lbs, Gambler 1800 lbs) Add moter, gear and people and the weights are not that different from standard boats, with Gamblers being heavier than many. Most boats fall into the above weight range.

[EuropeanAM]

+1 Thanks for jumping in on this, John!

I agree... wedges are used for "both" directional purposes... and lighter, faster hulls may indeed benefit from more "negative" trim to assist with holeshot!

[Bass Commander]

Didnt mean to cause confusion...just showing the installation of wedges which I assumed some here had not seen before.

[Sterling]

Thanks Rob.

I had no clue what they were. I am new to the large HP bass boats.

[bmas13]

Which wedges do you recommend and how much do they cost? It seems like a pretty easy install. I have the trim tabs (currently) but this looks like a much better proposition.