Thread: Prop blow out?

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  1. Member
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    #21
    Quote Originally Posted by TheRubberDuck View Post
    They are smooth rounded Allen bolt heads as opposed to the nut and bolt threads. Brent himself said it probably doesn't matter, but it's preference. Basically it makes a smoother surface for the water to move over (under the foil).
    The water is so turbulent under that foil during take off I doubt there is a bit of difference. I run mine (300R) on top, it sure looks better, even though they are much harder to get in due to the hollow anti ventilation plate on the sporty. In fact I had to drop my lower unit down to get the two bolts most forward to go in. JMO. Thanks for the reply.

    Edit: Adding some information for clarification and accuracy. First of all there is no cavitation or anti cavitation plate on an outboard motor. Cavitation occurs when the pressure on the low pressure side(front side) gets low enough to cause the water to boil. This will cause blade slip and pitting of the metal on the blade surface. This would be an exceedingly rare event.
    What you do have is an anti ventilation plate. Ventilation occurs when the prop is pulling air from the surface (and or exhaust) causing the prop to slip. The anti ventilation plate "shades" or blocks some of the surface air lessoning ventilation. When you add the foil, even though you are getting a little lift from the angle of the foil, the main thing you are doing is increasing the effectiveness of the anti ventilation plate. The higher you run the motor the more likely excess ventilation will occur. Those of us that run the sportmaster with P to P above the pad, some approaching 2 inches above, have a hard time taming ventilation. In my particular set up (XRS and 300R) I had to lower my motor from 1-7/8" above to 1-1/2" above. I was getting tired of slinging blades and struggling with ventilation a little. Mark Croxton strongly suggested I lower the motor and give up a few MPH to help prevent ear slinging.

    To the OP: If there comes a time you tire of seeing those multi colored balls in your jackplate, I have an alternative method. You will need a top plate also for my method. Go to Lowe's or similar and buy a pack of 1"x12"x48" styrofoam boards. You can cut this up into appropriate size pieces and fit them into the jackplate. You will have to cut foam into pieces you can fit under and around the rods and nuts but, with a little effort you can stack it one layer at a time to completely fill the jackplate. Add the top plate and you have a neat installation that is out of sight and you get rid of the clown look of the balls, no offense intended. Feel free to PM if you need more information on the styrofoam installation.
    Last edited by gehol; 08-14-2023 at 06:01 AM.

  2. Member TheRubberDuck's Avatar
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    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by gehol View Post
    Add the top plate and you have a neat installation that is out of sight and you get rid of the clown look of the balls, no offense intended. Feel free to PM if you need more information on the styrofoam installation.
    Believe me, I've been on Brent about a top plate with the Bullet logo. Not only does it not look clown-ish LOL but the balls won't slip out.

    I also thought about cutting a bunch of pool noodles and stacking them in the jack plate. But I wasn't sure it would give the lift the balls do.
    Cody
    2018 Bullet 21SDC 250 ProXS
    2B526206

  3. Member WVBullet's Avatar
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    #23
    I love my top and bottom plates

    2008 BULLET 21XD 2007 Merc 300xs


  4. Member
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    #24
    I really like using a large exercise/yoga ball in the same color as your jackplate to fill the area. It conforms to the shape and size of the volume and it's almost impossible to see. Of course you have to have the top and bottom plates for this to work.

  5. Member
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    #25
    just try to make sure you cover up all the sharp edges to keep from puncturing the ball, like I did, but they do work fairly well

  6. Member WVBullet's Avatar
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Bullet 250 View Post
    just try to make sure you cover up all the sharp edges to keep from puncturing the ball, like I did, but they do work fairly well
    Yes, watch those edges.

    2008 BULLET 21XD 2007 Merc 300xs


  7. Member TheRubberDuck's Avatar
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    #27
    I put heat shrink on all the bolt threads and sharp edges. But they are cheap balls so if one fails, no big deal.
    Last edited by TheRubberDuck; 08-15-2023 at 10:17 PM.
    Cody
    2018 Bullet 21SDC 250 ProXS
    2B526206

  8. Member
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    CADIZ, Ky
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    #28
    This my results w/a 21XD. 12" Rapid Jack w/top and bottom plates. Filled the plate
    w/blue sheet foam from Lowes. The foils was from Beman( out of business).
    The prop was a 26 TXP. Holeshot was exceptional. The boat just literally pushed
    forward w/very little bow rise. Shut down was just as good. I could chop the throttle
    and the boat would rise and move away from the wave. I was running 3/4" below the pad
    w/a250 XB. Top end 83.5 w/ 1/2 tank and light tackle load. This was near to perfect setup
    as one could ask for. LDS
    Larry D. Scott Retired KY Water patrol/F&W
    www.greatscottshooters.com

    2008 TRACKER TV 18 w/150 Mercury 4S
    MK Ultrex 80lb, 102 Garmin Live scope
    and a UHD93SV Garmin on the bow.
    UHD 93SV at the console.

  9. Member TheRubberDuck's Avatar
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    Cody
    2018 Bullet 21SDC 250 ProXS
    2B526206

  10. Member
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    Northport al
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    #30
    Looks sharp, now tell me about that truck.
    Bullet 21XRS 250 pro xs serial#2B775575

  11. Member TheRubberDuck's Avatar
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    #31
    9BAA0677-ADF4-4977-B64C-B1015929D440.png
    My pulling truck
    95 F350 (yes 7.3 powerstroke)

    what would you like
    to know about it?
    Cody
    2018 Bullet 21SDC 250 ProXS
    2B526206

  12. Member
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    Northport al
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    #32
    Just wanted to see a better pic of it I love those body styles. I built my son a 93 flairside 4x4 150.
    Bullet 21XRS 250 pro xs serial#2B775575

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