Finally was able to get out on the water today. Motor acted pretty much the same with load, and thermostats appeared to cycle twice which is something I have never seen before. Once they open it takes some time to get back up to 120, but when they do, it seems to hold there. Something else to mention thought don't really know if it's an issue. Smartcraft reads a degree lower than VV Link. According to Smartcraft, temp holds at 119.
Not sure what you're referring to as "Smartcraft"... Smartcraft is the technology (includes the Vessel View LINK and whatever display it's communicating through).
Guessing you have more than one Smartcraft "Device" you're looking at?
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Smartcraft gage is on dash and VVLink info on Lowrance Carbon. Temp is 1 degree warmer on Carbon display than Merc Smartcraft gage. I know you said 120 or above was the number needed when running. After thermostats cycle, Carbon display temp hits the 120, Merc gage only reads 119.
send it
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Still having an issue. Most times, engine warms ups correctly (129-131) before poppet opens, then drops to low teens and back up settling at 120. Other times it gets to 125 drops down to low teens and won't go past 118 no matter how long I let it warm up. Both thermostats are new OEM. I removed them both and they are perfectly clean, not even a speck on either one, but still, the motor often won't warm up completely. Kind of at at loss where to look next.
Poppet is not supposed to open at IDLE... it opens only after you begin to accelerate. Make sure that it is moving in and out of the seat with ZERO effort (like it's buttered).
In addition to being "clean" you need to make sure there's no damage to the seat area (which is aluminum). Rocks and pebbles will put divots in the surface and it takes only a couple grains of sand to create a leak as far as "size" is concerned.
If you can find no other reason whatsoever- try swapping the thermostats side to side and see if there is any difference.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
So I swapped thermostats, but in the process, noticed a buildup if old gasket material. It wasn’t a lot, but there was some there. I cleaned that up, and ran it on the muffs. It warmed up normally, and settled at 120, but thermostats cycled twice more over the next five minutes. Eventually it did settle at 120 degrees. Maybe that was the problem? Full water test tomorrow, so I’ll see how it goes.Originally Posted by EuropeanAM
report back with results
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Since swapping thermostats from port to starboard, everything seems much more normal. Ran a bunch today and let it cool down before restarting. Getting a constant 120 degree operating temp, though the two to three times cycling up to 130 and back down to 1 teens before stabilizing is something new.report back with results
Sounds like it's working properly now.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Thanks Don, I hope that did it.
I swear this thing is driving my crazy. Thermostats won't stop cycling and temperature reading is like a yo yo. It hit 130ish, back down to teens, up to mid 120's back down, up to 133, back down to 113, up again, over and over. It wants to run at 118 almost every time it settles on a temp to stay at which can be more than 5 minutes of crazy cycling. Water pressure is great whether at idle or while running with no fluctuations. Poppet seems smooth (butter like) no leakes anywhere, strainer totally clean. I'm at a loss....
replace stats with OEM new ones
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
They are both brand new OEM and have not resolved the problem that has been on going.
surface temps ?????
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Water still in the high 60’s to low 70’s where I ran it.
as DON says new doesnt mean its good
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Maybe on to something there. After seeing endless thermostat cycling of temps, and won't continually run over 118, I once again took out both of the almost new OEM thermostats to do a stovetop water test. (I do know the proper procedure) What I found, one was lazy to open (136-138 degrees) and even then did not really open fully, the other while it did open at 131-132, was very lazy to close. Obviously there probably was no way these to could work in concert with one another, For all the agravation this has caused me, it would have been easier to take that $200 and chuck it out the window. So now I'll try another new set and see if it finally solves this mess.
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Mine is steady 128 or 129
Ron Fears
Stroker/300XS
1E003823
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