2013 250 Pro XS IB961561

[mini-x fan]

I just bought a boat with a 2013 250 Pro XS Serial# 1B961561. This motor has roughly 850 hours and has strictly been used in saltwater. I realize this engine is likely not long for this world, but I want to address some items on it to hopefully get a few more years out of it. Here on the Texas Coast corrosion kills most outboards - just a part of the game here.

The engine runs fairly well. It hesitates out of the hole sporadically, and the max RPM I have seen is roughly 5500 @ 65 MPH. I am still learning how to run the boat so I have not really pushed it yet.

History:

• Stumbles out of the hole sometimes
• Got the low oil alarm last outing. I screwed up and put it into break-in mode while on the water in an attempt to prime it. After hours of reading, I realize this was NOT the right way. I will run 2 hours above 3500 RPM with level trim to run the clock out. I expect to foul my plugs.
• Compression (Charged Battery, Operating Temp, Throttle Open etc) - 1: 115 PSI, 2: 115 PSI, 3: 110 PSI, 4: 120 PSI, 5: 118 PSI, 6:120 PSI
• Noted oil all over hoses on below intake plenum. No fresh oil noted on bottom allen screw of oil pump.
• Changed gear lube. Dark but no metal or water.
• Fuel rails rusted/rotted at the bottom
• Cracked coil on cylinder 5 - still firing
• Temps - Rises to 145 or so before dropping to 120's quickly and maintains ~129 on plane at all times.

Plan:

• Fresh plugs gapped correctly. Current plugs pulled out of motor were correct NGK plugs but gapped at .027 not .042-44
• Clean and degrease motor completely to locate oil leak and resolve.
• Cylinder drop test on coils to verify all are good (suspect #5 is bad or will be soon)
• Replace fuel filter, clean VST, rebuild pulse pump, and replace fuel line/bulb (Fuel line is new and not Gray. Plan to do this in future after testing with fresh plugs)
• Replace water pump, rebuild poppet, and inspect T - Stats (no issues here now with temps, but want to stay ahead). I have already cleaned and flushed compressor strainer.
• Work my way through the wiring harness and clean corrosion

I first plan to address the oil leak. Then I will investigate the ignition system for obvious issues before moving to the fuel system.

Does this sound like a good approach? I am trying to stay within a budget here and keep this engine running good for another 2 years or so. I don't want to throw good money after bad with a ton of parts since this engine is likely to die from corrosion before anything else. Please let me know if I am on the right track here or if I am missing anything. Thank you!

[EuropeanAM]

Yes- good approach. Couple items I would strongly recommend adding:

-New BELT

-Test Tensioner Spring (70 lbs/in before tensioner hits end of travel)

-NEW THERMOSTATS (in salt water you'll want new OEM ones).

Be aware... the fuel rails are essentially scrap and would be non-serviceable (requiring replacement). Something to be prepared for... and monitor them religiously for any signs of fuel leakage (if any is noted, DON'T run it again until repaired).

Excellent compression, BTW... and you can subtract about 175 hrs. from the gearcase runtime.

[mini-x fan]

Don,

Thank you for the great input! I will add those things to my list and keep an eye on the fuel rails.

Quite frankly I was surprised by the compression as well. She's sipped on Premium Plus her whole life and I am afraid to switch that up at this point. I am running the cocktail now though. Thank you for the intel on the gearcase as well.

I will begin working my way through the list and report back with the progress.

[mini-x fan]

I did some more investigating on the motor today after a trailer axle replacement nightmare. Pretty defeated here… some good but mostly bad:

The belt tensioner passed the test and there was no shaft play in the compressor pulley. The compressor built pressure to the point I could not rotate by hand quickly.

I found another issue that puts me dead in the water for now. The air compressor outlet hose is leaking (Detected from moisture bubbling out while running. No drips just bubbles?) It looks like I will need part #32-8567631.

Does the moisture bubbling out of this line raise any questions? It rained today and of course it is humid here in Texas. I need advice on a path forward. Do I buy this $100 hose or begin looking for some rails? My rails will rot out soon. I also suspect this air leak could be causing some performance loss and rich condition, especially when coupled with the high ambient temps and RH%.

[massbays]

Have been dealing with opti's in salt water since they came out.
never had a fuel rail rot out, they're aluminum. supply lines have steel ends and get ugly but have never had one fail.

[EuropeanAM]

Seen MANY of them rotten. Most commonly it's a case of not being able to get the hose fittings out of the rail- and if you do, they won't reseal.

Where on the air supply hose are you seeing "bubbling"? Are you using the correct OETIKER clamps?

[mini-x fan]

Seen MANY of them rotten. Most commonly it's a case of not being able to get the hose fittings out of the rail- and if you do, they won't reseal.

Where on the air supply hose are you seeing "bubbling"? Are you using the correct OETIKER clamps?

The bubbling is right where the Oetiker clamp is on the compressor outlet. I assume it is the correct Oetiker 15.3 clamp (everything looks factory). My plan is to take the hose loose, trim about an inch off, then reattach with a fresh Oetiker 15.3 clamp. I have the clamps and some pliers on order. While I wait for those to come in, I have been degreasing the motor and wrapping up the axle project. At this point, I might as well start my mornings with a shot of PB Blaster and use Antiseize as aftershave .

Thank you for all of the valuable information. This site is an incredible resource!

[EuropeanAM]

I'd reduce the amount you cut off if at all possible. You might also simply check to make sure the clamp is fully crimped (very easy to under-clamp them).

[mini-x fan]

I'd reduce the amount you cut off if at all possible. You might also simply check to make sure the clamp is fully crimped (very easy to under-clamp them).

Will do! I will try to crimp the existing clamp first, then try a fresh clamp, then cut a minimal amount off the hose if the first two attempts don't work. Thank you very much!

[mini-x fan]

Will do! I will try to crimp the existing clamp first, then try a fresh clamp, then cut a minimal amount off the hose if the first two attempts don't work. Thank you very much!

A new clamp resolved the bubbling and now it idles smoother (probably just in my head). I also ran it in the dark and verified none of the plugs are arcing on the block. Everything checked out, so the plan is to put the cowls back together and run it for a few hours today to get it out of break-in mode. Thank you again!