Ok guys....I am sick of it. Every where I look, its shakey this and shakey that. I guess its time for to figure this thing out. Anyone care to give me a rundown? Water type, depth, color ect. I realize this is a finess technique, but does it work best shallow, deep, clear water, dingy water, boat docks, brush piles, cypress trees, ect?
Would like to learn more about this and any advise or tips would be more than I know now, so lets hear it.
Here are my thoughts and opinions on the Shakey Head.
While I think that this technique being a finesse technique originated in a clear water environment, I have used it with success in stained water. I have not had to much success in muddy water with it (mainly because it is more of a sight based technique for me). It can be used in any type of water as far as I am concerned, and on any type of cover. I have used this in water depths of 10' and less because that is what I have around me (this is why in some of my fishing reports I list a 1/16 oz Shakey Head), it DOES work deeper you would just have to increase the size of the jig head. I am not sure about cypress trees, I have never personally fished them, I am sure that someone with more experience will chime in with some more info.
Here is what I use, take it as a sales pitch I really don't care, it's not meant to be. 1/16oz Shakey Head, Shakey Worm (because they FLOAT) (Both from Hookerz Tackle, a BBC Sponsor) Light line is a must I use 10# Fluorocarbon this year, I just started using the new Vicious Line, I am still up in the air on it.
6'-9" Mag Light casting rod (light tip, plenty of backbone to drive the hook in) Shimano Scorpion 1000. I have caught fish (among other things) in August with 90 degree water temps and in December with 30. It works all year, you just have to vary your presentation to how the fish want that day just like anything else.
I primarily use only use two retrieves:
1 (inactive/neutral fish): Cast out and let it sink to the bottom, and rest for about 30 seconds. Shake your rod tip for about 5-10 seconds and stop, let it rest for 15-20 seconds and repeat all the way back to the boat, shore, or until you are out of what you think is the strike zone.
2. (Active Fish): Cast out and let it sink to bottom, I will continuously shake my rod tip, but not moving the lure horizontally very much, giving the appearance of something feeding on the bottom ( I use a little bit heavier jig head for this to maintain bottom contact)
Now for fishing laydown, and bush piles, I will Texas Rig the shakey worm on a smaller EWG or J Bend Hook to achieve the desired tail up appearance. Now you have a lure that is more weedless than a jig head that can be fished through trees and such. On my Texas Rig I will put a Glass Bead like what you would use on a Carolina rig in between the weight and the hook and peg the bead, when you retrieve this the weight banging against the bead will click, which works even better if you use a craw imitation instead of a worm.
Below is a picture of the way that I rig a shakey head on a jig head, this is from the Hookerz Tackle website.
Sorry to be so long winded
This is an article by Jason Cuda the owner of Hookerz Tackle and posted on another site. The article was written in Febuary of 2006
The "shakey rig" formally know as an Alabama rig is simply a ball head jig with a worm, rigged on it texas style with the hook point hid in the plastic. This technique has been around for quite a long time, but in the past couple seasons it has received much recognition, for being used in tournament fishing.
This rig is usually thrown in finesse applications. Spinning rods, lighter line and straight tailed worms seem to be the most chosen tackle. Roundball jigs in 1/16-1/4 usually get the job done for most applications. The type of worm or plastic bait used should be of your own confidence brand and color. I have been utilizing this method of fishing in tourneys only in the past two years, but the ability to put fish in the boat when things are slow, is where this application seems to accel. Straight tail worms seem to work best for me, also I prefer a worm made of high floating plastic, this allows the bait to stand up on end vertically. A worm with heavy salt will not have the same amount of action with soft shakes of the rod tip.
The best way in which to fish this presentation for me has been a method of casting and allowing the bait to hit bottom. After a long pause, I first shake the worm to get the bait to quiver without actually lifting it off the bottom. Another pause, then the same shaking tech again. Many times suspended fish may follow it to the bottom or fish in the immediate area will come to inspect the new intruder and watch it. The shaking may elicit a strike at this time. If there are no takers, a slow drag or soft hop can be employed, followed again by a pause and then the shaking of the worm again, hence the name shakey. Follow the same routine back to the boat and repeat.
Where to fish this rig? This method can be used in almost any type area or situation. My findings, (and I hope to get feedback on yours) has been inside and outside weed edges, rockpiles, rockwalls, and docks. Open water applications have worked also, but specific structure seems to be more productive, by keeping the bait slowly working at the right depth in the strike zone for a good majority of the cast. Utilizing lighter weight jigheads (1/16th) I have had many fish inhale the bait as it was on the decent to the bottom. This pattern should be recognized and capitalized on when available. Also by fishing a shakey head worm along a weed edge, the bait is a sitting duck for any bass lurking just inside the weeds waiting for the ambush. Good casts tight to the weedline are essential for catching higher percentages of fish in this pattern. Also because the hook point is not exposed fully, a cast which hits weeds can usually be easily popped out to fall to the bottom. Docks with posts or brush around them can be fished well with this method also. I know what some of you guys are thinking....."JIG", heck I am with you there, but sometimes this style of fishing can be a better trigger and different presention that the bass may react to that day. A pass down your favorite stretch of docks that goes without any takers on the jig, may be repeated with the shakey worm rig, for a diff look. Sometimes it works......sometimes you may need dynamite, we all have been there.
Mistakes utilizing this rig: Through trial and error, I have found the most ineffective method for using this rig is to fish it too fast, and impart big jumps on the baits. Slow down, dragging and shaking seems to get the bites more often than not. Also a worm thats too short will not have the tail quivering action we're looking for. A 5-6" slender worm seems to work the best for me.
Bait colors: We all have our fav's but one thing to remember when utilizing a high buoyancy worm that stands up, is that it also mimicks a baitfish feeding on the bottom when being shaked. Baitfish colors can be good, especially when fishing waters heavily populated with smallies. The largies I have been able to put in the box, all have come on black, green pumpkin and watermelon. Just keeping it simple has been working and I will keep sticking with it. Last season if my memory serves me right, I dont think I caught any lunker sized (4+) smallies on this technique, but I was quite surprised on catching a number of picture worthy largies on it. Because of the light weight of the jighead and slender design of the worm, 6, 7, and 8 lb test was normally used, and a 5+ largie on a light setup usually gets my adrenaline flowing and also puts me in panic mode. But again, after losing more than my share of quality fish, I have found to "try" to stay calm and move the fish off any line breaking structure to deeper water and let her tire out with the fight back to the boat. Point the nose of the boat out to deeper water with a hit on the trolling motor usually gets the job done.
Hookerz will be unveiling our version of the Shakey rig in the near future. I used this setup last year with good results. As you will see when I post the pics later on, our setup allows for the worm to stay a little more inline with the hook point which will take alot of the spiraling out of the fall which adds up to much unwanted line twist. Also the worm ends up being rigged a little more weedless as well.
I look forward to other anglers findings who implement this technique on their waters. If you have used it, with success, I would glad to hear your style and method. If you have not yet fished this rig, here are some basics to get you started, and add another tool to bass fishing. Tight lines all!!
Jason
by looking at the pic it looks like the worm isnt attached to the "head" or ball of the jig head.. can someone post pics on how to rig them? and which worms float?? i know the strike king 3x lures float. anything else?? thanks guys and interesting read mike
I think alot has been written about shakey head fishing. lots of specialty jigheads out there to use. I use the spotremover mostly. I like it better than those spring types. many use a jighead and fish it weedless, either using the special heads or by texas rigging on the jighead. this is something you'll have to figure out.
Here is what I do and its cheaper and easier. I use a simple ball or darter head with a 2/0 hook and rig the worm open hook style(like a grub). I might snag a little more but when a bass grabs it, hook set is not needed. hes on! this will go through weeds surprising well. this is just a version of "darter head" fishing used in California. I've caught largemouth in 4ft with this, smallmouth in 30ft and spots in 50ft!! For the price of 8 "specialty" heads I can get 30 plain old heads.
For a bait check out the chompers finesse worm. good price in bass pro. nice colors, Salt and garlic. melon pepper is nice!!
Throw some 6# test line on a 6ft+ spinning rod and you are ready to go. very relaxing way to fish. throw it out let it sink and you can do whatever, shake it, jig it, dead stick, drag it, drink coffee whatever, that baby will catch whatever is there. hope this helps as an option.
Thanks guys....its alot of info to absorb, but thats pretty much what I asked for. Thats just what I need though, more stuff to buy and something else to learn.
I am really interested in this technique and am certainly going to give it a whirl. Thanks again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mkgarrison5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by looking at the pic it looks like the worm isnt attached to the "head" or ball of the jig head.. can someone post pics on how to rig them? and which worms float?? i know the strike king 3x lures float. anything else?? thanks guys and interesting read mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
As far as which worms float, I don't care for (personal preference) the 3X worms, I could never get them to stay on the hook right. I use the Hookerz Tackle Shakey Worms because they float tail up like you see in the picture.
The worm IS attached to a corkscrew in-between the eye of the jig head and the weight. I will post a picture below
when the worm is screwed onto the corkscrew and rigged on the hook point you end up with this
Great info Mike, if one has to read a commercial, it might as well be a good one with good info.
Thanks Russ I was not trying to sound liek an infomercial, just putting out there what I use. I knew that Jason posted that on another website and copy and pasted with his approval.
Here are some other heads to look at,,,,,You can decide on the weight you want and color..
http://www.ztackle.com/products.asp?cat=163
my favorite shakeyhead is the Omega Savior
http://omegacustomtackle.com/j...6dd72
a little pricey but i have found that they come through the rock and cover great and dont hang near as bad as the ones i was using
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