I have been reading alot of posts on the crankbait box that goes around from time to time. Last year was the first year I really started using a crankbait and just usually bought el-cheapo from BPS or wally world. Now I know there are plenty of diff types and makes and I see that luckycraft baits are fairly expensive. So what do you guys consider GOOD crankbaits!!! Thanks!
The Rapala DT's are pretty good. Shadraps are still a favorite. I got some Shaky shads from Alabama Lakes, who is a sponser, and I really like these.
There's a TON of custom baits out these. I really like the ones from Persuader lures!! They are a sponser here also!!
I like a lot of the Normans baits, D-22's, Little N's, Deep Little N's and the cut my crankbait teeth on 7A Bombers.
I am a certified crankbait addict.I would be afraid to see how many I actually have.Each kind of crank will shine over another at certain times.For deep cranking and mid cranking my go to baits are Norman DD22 and Norman DLN but I do throw other deep lures.For shallow cranking I use an arsenal of assorted brands and sizes.You have round bills,square bills and coffin bills. Silent and rattles. Fat and thin body cranks.Big and small. There is no way anyone could tell you what lure works best because at any given time the conditions or the bass will call for a different one.There are so many variations of cranks that I could write all night and tomorrow and still not cover all the bases.I will try to help with some basics.
Try and get an assortment of good cranks.You don't have to spend $16 for a great crank. 90% of the cranks I throw are $4-$6 ea. I like Manns baby series,Bandits and Norman for extreme shallow to 4' cranking.For mid depth I like Norman,Rebel ,bombers and Poes.Deep to very deep I like Norman,Poes, and Manns.
I throw my deep cranks on 10lb test and most shallow cranks on 15lb.To get the true running depth out of a diving crank you need to throw 10lb.You can use larger test but the depth will be less for the bait.The one thing I cant stress enough with cranks is to have a great cranking rod.They have the action you need for maximum performance out of your cranks and the limber blank to keep bass on those hooks.
Once you get to throwing cranks you will notice most will not run true out of the box.What I mean is that they will run left or right.You can tune them with a pair of pliers.If it is running right,turn the eye to the left and so on.It only takes a small amount of turning to adjust the lure.So you only need to move it a hair at a time.Cast the lure out and with the tip straight in front of you reel it in.Once you have it coming right at you it is tuned right.
Suspending cranks can be worth their weight in gold when bass are suspended or sluggish.These are most often used in cold water conditions but they do work at other times just as well.When I am cranking deep structure,I want my bait to run into and through the cover.When I feel it hit something I stop cranking and reel the slack up.This allows a suspending crank to stay right next to the cover you hit and often provokes a strike.With floating cranks it will back up away from the cover you hit and draw a reaction strike.Most of the time if I am cranking through cover the strike will come when I have stopped cranking and I feel it once I start pulling again.Often the only thing you will feel when a bass hits a crank on the pause is a heavy sensation on the other end.You do not have to snap a hook set like you do with a worm.Just lean back into the rod and keep it tight.
If bass are suspended in open water or above cover you can locate them on your sonar.Find a crank that will stay at that depth and work it through the suspended bass.Jerkbaits are usually the choice for suspended bass but I also use suspending cranks with good success.I am not as confident fishing for open water suspended bass as I am cranking through cover so I will let Don or some of the others that are use to those conditions help you there.
Like I said I could go forever and only get started on cranks.But I hope what I have posted will help you some.Im sure you will get some valuable advice from the other guys on here also.Good Luck and Good Fishing.
Chris, I have a ton of crankbaits, and throw them a lot at certain times, but normally always have one tied on.
The custom baits are definately worth the extra money. Some days almost any bait will catch fish, and on other days, they want a specific action, or sound etc.
I like the Persuader Stealth Shad 200 and 300 series, Blackjack and Fishco.
I would rather spend the extra money on a custom bait with a different action and look, than the Lucky Crafts, but that is only my opinion.
For standard, off the shelf baits, I like the Norman DLN and DD22, the Bagley Killer B II, Rapala DT's, and the Excalibur Fat Free Shad.
Lifetime Member of BBC
We could talk forever on this subject.There are so many lures and so many colors. Like some of the other guys said it depends on the conditions and what type of water your fishing(swallow, deep, or mid-range). I think to cover all the different conditions you should have lots and I mean lots of different cranks. Some brands work better in some conditions than others. For instance I was fishing a creek cannel that was covered with fish , Catching them on a Fat Free shad (water about 7-9ft deep). After catching about 25-30 fish, I thought I would try a different brand(same color and depth range, on same rod) fished another hour without a one bit. Went back to the Fat Free and started catching them again. The fish just wanted that type of bait.
If you find a color and type of bait that you like and catch fish on them stick with it. Its just like throwing you favorite plactic or jig.
As for the lucky craft baits, I love them. They have come out with some new ones lately and I have caught alot of fish with them. I also hate losing themThey do hurt the pocket book a little harder.
Be sure you buy as many colors and types of baits that you can afford until you find that one bait that you like. Good Luck
The bomber model A's, shad raps and Fat Free Shads would be a great place to start. These are proven baits over a bunch of years and will not break the bank. Until you get more confident in crankbaits, I would suggest using a less expensive bait and cut down the colors and sizes. Keep it simple till you get your confidense up.
Ryan Coleman's Lake Lanier Pro Guide Service
The one thing I will add to this is about color. You can spend a years salary just buying all the different colors of one series from one manufacturer. Don't. There are basic patterns and 5 or six will cover the majority of your needs. If your fishing clearer water (light penetrtates 6ft or more) I would start with the more natural color choices, like shad, chrome/black back, natural crawfish. If it's muddy conditions then start with firetiger, chartreuse/black back, etc.etc.etc. I've been around water all my life fishing or swiming and diving...have noticed a lot of things. One thing I've never seen is a crawdad swimming a foot or two below the surface in 6ft of water. Here's the point. Don't buy a crawdad pattern in a bait that only dives two feet. I know people catch fish on them, sometimes...but to me it just doesn't seem natural. They tend to scoot on the bottom or stay within a foot or two.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hoytman42 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have been reading alot of posts on the crankbait box that goes around from time to time. Last year was the first year I really started using a crankbait and just usually bought el-cheapo from BPS or wally world. Now I know there are plenty of diff types and makes and I see that luckycraft baits are fairly expensive. So what do you guys consider GOOD crankbaits!!! Thanks!
for me a good crankbait is one that I have caught fish on!!!!!!
I tend to have better luck with my cheap on sale baits because I dont care if i lose them or bust them so I will throw them in places/ways that I wont the higher dollar ones
if you ever try to get just past and beside it and slap a bridge piling with a $15 C/B because the wind blew to see it split into two pieces it will make your head hurt(along with your wallet)and your confidense
Very well written Jeremy.
I too have really started gaining confidence in crankbaits over the past year. I see how valuable they are at locating fish. I have found that the most important factor I have encountered no matter what brand or color I use is that the lure has to stay in contact with the structure, whether it be rock, timber or grass.
I have found that a simple silver and black has produced the most in clear to stained water.
Also not to forget the wobble factor, different baits have different action. I am still trying to find the right combination between round and flat sided cranks depending on different water temperatures and clarity. I really think the clearer the water the smaller and flatter the bait should be.
Any suggestions about this would be appreciated.
Jeff
alright guys, you gotta check this site out for crankbaits and topwaters. this guy will take your baits you send him and paint them any way you want, plus he has a custom lure line that is very competitively priced and you get any paintjob on any lure you want. i get all my crankbaits from him and will not buy another one from wally world. Money well spent. the website is up, but not completely done, so if you want to order, contact him on the contact link.
http://www.lureinnovations.com
Nick
dude, cranks are wonderful baits and you don't have to spend an arm and a leg to get some good ones.
Bandit baits were awesome for shallow to mid level cranking before the baits were made in China.... Now I would say that Norman lures and Bomber, Rebel wee-rs can fill that niche. And yes.... most of those can be bought at Wal mart for less than $5. Also, Academy stores sell Kinami Cranks.... they are awesome, but the price will fool you...Be careful... they only cost about $2.50
Ryan,
What colors and sizes would you start with? I have never fished with cranks, but thought I would add them to my game plan.
To answer the original question... a good crankbait is any crankbait that you can take out of the package, cast a mile, runs true and targets the depth that the fish are relating to. Find this combination, vary your retrieve styles and you will catch fish regardless of color or maunfacturer.
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