What have you done to improve your active target image? I know power source has been mentioned before, but never seen a b4 and after comparison. looking for things that actually give you a better return. and allow you to see fish further out.
What have you done to improve your active target image? I know power source has been mentioned before, but never seen a b4 and after comparison. looking for things that actually give you a better return. and allow you to see fish further out.
Bryan McDonough
2023 Nitro Z21 XL
Nitro Team
In an effort to see a clearer picture, many folks turn the power (gain) on their units down, just as they did with their 2D units in the past. This is the worse thing you can do. Turning down the transmitting power to your unit is like turn down the lights in your house; you can't see as well. You need to keep your power up to show the maximum number of targets returning the sonar signals. Power source, like mentioned above, continues to be an issue especially with older boats with questionable wire sizes and poor connections. Batteries do loose power over time and need to be at optimal performance with adequate amperage throughout the day. If you can afford it and have enough room, an electronics dedicated battery is a great asset to good viewing.
The number one image destroyer for AT is bad geometry on the install. I see way too many issues that never gets looked at is the angle at which the Troll motor hangs off the boat. A key test for this is if you cannot look out in forward view over 25 to 40 ft you have a backward angle on your TM shaft usually 6 to 8 degree pointing towards the transom which puts your AT pointing to the bottom vs forward. The next geometry issue is the alignment of the transducer bracket to the head of the motor. This is very well explained in the install manual. The 3rd is mentions about on sensitivity. if you are not running it from 88 to 94 in manual then (switch to auto) then you are missing out. If the noise stops you from going that high, then go with what you can live with no how pretty. The higher you go the more you will see. Turn off Noise rejection. Never run it. If you have noise the focus on the source of the noise and do not compensate for that by turning down sensitivity. That is a lose lose proposition. The biggest source of noise is transducer pinging. Stop sonar on Structure Scan and 2D Sonar on all unit. Those of you that still have noise its most likely your Minn Kota motor. Nothing you can do about that other than get a Ghost.
What is your solution for a backward angle TM if you have ducer mounted on the TM shaft?Originally Posted by Basshopper
question isn’t to me but I have a wedge that I put under my ghost mounting bracket. Mine was angled backward a ton. I added the wedge before I added AT to mY boat.
Turn your transducer one more click up.
That will only work when you are scanning directly forward of the boat. When the shaft is rotated to scan to the side, the ducer will be off of plumb.
First shim your trolling motor in the front to get your angle corrected. Then when you get that and it still seem off either reshim or use a negative number on the angle offset. My preference is to get the geometry correct as best you can then use the offset. The offset is only for fine tunning. You will most likely have to ship up a 1/4 to 3/8 of an in to get the shaft to 90 deg from 6 to 8 deg back. If you have a point one ant. Next time on the water pull up the data to altitude Pitch write that down, then jack up your bow to that deg of pitch then measure the TM shaft angle. That is the best way for accuracy.
when you do that the angle will tell the transducer its not in forward if you put it on automatic view. Again best to get the geometry right where the issue is. The Trolling Motor mounting.
Precision sonar and Ashmore Products both make wedges for your trolling mtr. Any boat that has a forward curve up front like Ranger and Triton need these. They are great for vertical fishing when your 2D sonar needs to be straight up and down too.
Sure, you can shim the TM but it may not help if your boat has a list while sitting in the water. Then you have the variables such as fuel, livewells, 1 or 2 people in the boat, 1 in the front 1 in the back, 2 up front, gear, etc.
Based on this then nothing would work and we know that is not true. Never seen these influences ever. Besides everyone of these are always temporary.
That was my point, and why I will call mine good as is.
Last edited by mikeky; 02-01-2023 at 01:37 PM.
I am gonna try mounting my ducer on the side of the TM, instead of the shaft.
Bryan McDonough
2023 Nitro Z21 XL
Nitro Team
I have experimented a lot with transducer placement. Run m360 also. Have had best luck with AT mounted to LU of Ghost vs on the shaft. No angles to deal with on the mount. Theoretically better also as no sonar returns that have bounced off LU if shaft mounted. But I don't fish in weeds much....
what is LU of Ghost?
Lower unit.
No one can be wrong that often so it has to be deliberate.
Great tip!
John Walker - Matthews NC
2021 Ranger RT198P - Mercury 150 4S
VesselView Link - Enertia Eco
MotorGuide Tour Pro - Epoch Lithiums
Lowrance Carbons - Active Target 2
That same pitch can be used to level your transom transducers also. Works everytime.
thank You.
Also great tip!
John Walker - Matthews NC
2021 Ranger RT198P - Mercury 150 4S
VesselView Link - Enertia Eco
MotorGuide Tour Pro - Epoch Lithiums
Lowrance Carbons - Active Target 2
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