1993 Evinrude E150GLET hard to start when cold

[Jimex]

This motor has always started quickly with no problems until the last 2 seasons. Last year, I replace the key switch when the motor would not start. I determined with conductivity tests that the switch was bad. Also replaced waterpump and prop shaft seals. I replaced a bowl on one of the carburetors that was leaking at the BB on the bottom of the bowl. I ran a can of OMC engine tuner through the motor and let it soak overnight. I do this annually. The motor would not start the next day until I installed new plugs. It started and ran normally after the plugs were installed. Subsequent starts were difficult, sometimes not starting until the plugs were cleaned. I ultimately changed the plugs and it ran fine for the rest of the season.
This year I did not run engine cleaner through the motor as I probably did not put 10 hours on the motor since the last cleaning. I did have a bad kill switch and replaced this. I also replaced another carb bowl for a leaking gasket surface. I am running QL77JC4 plugs.
I have been premixing oil since the motor was about 2 years old. I drained the gas about a week ago and put new gas in the motor and changed the plugs. Still having cold start issues. The motor acts like it is flooding. When I pull the plugs they are coated with oil. I can clean them and reinstall and the motor starts and runs well with no restart issues. This motor has alway started well with no issues. The only difference is that it is on a lift in a boat slip for the last 2 years. Prior to that it was kept under a carport. I would appreciate any help you can give me on this problem.

[ChampioNman]

Welcome to the BBC. Next time you replace your plugs change over to QL78YC Champion plugs stock part number 938-1 or 938-m the plugs are available at your local auto shop (NAPA, AZ, O'reilly's), Autozone can get them the next day if they aren't in stock cost is $1.99 each. O'reilly's will match AZ prices.
You should check the throttle roller on the throttle body and see if the clear roller has disintagrated. If you have a solid black roller and not a clear tube over it then that needs to be replaced. The roller needs to touch the timing arm. On the 60* motor like yours timing and throttle need to move together.
Gap the new plugs at .030 tight. I would also inspect the fuel filter for black particles indicating fuel line break down.

[ecmilley]

championman is right on with his knowledge of omc, but one thing to bring up is do you hear the fuel primer clilcking when cold? just because the plugs look wet doesn't mean its getting enough fuel when cold, once it's running take it for a good run then check the plugs, my intruder acted strange at times cleaned and tightened battery terminals and a lot of glitches dissapeared

[Jimex]

Thanks for your response Championman. I will check the throttle roller today. I never switched to the QL78YC plug before because the QL77JC4 has always been very reliable. I have already checked the fuel filter at the engine. I also have an inline fuel filter ahead of the motor. This was changed last season when I first started having the starting problems.

re Ecmiley - The primer bulb is clicking and appears to be working ok. Battery terminals are tight.

[ChampioNman]

The QL78YC are a hotter plug and will help you with your pre-mix fuel burn. The factory plug chart has been upgraded since your motor was new and the specs have been changed since your owners manual was published. Try the QL78YC's I think you will be happy.

[Jimex]

So I replaced the throttle roller as you suggested. Can't get the plugs yet, they are out of them at AZ and anyone else wants double the price and will not match. I finally convinced myself to run a compression test. Looks like a new powerhead. This one shows no compression on 4 cylinders and about 20 psig on 2. I don't know how it ever started. I intend to pull the heads to inspect at the next opportunity. Any suggestions? Also, where is the best place to buy a rebuilt powerhead if I go that way? I have rebuilt a powerhead for a 15 hp for the jon boat and it did well for awhile, but I am not going to try this one.

[ChampioNman]

I would have the compression re-tested.

[Jimex]

Ok - got a different compression tester - compression 65 lowest 75 highest. Cold engine. Not real good - but should still run ok. Waiting on plugs to come in. Should be tomorrow. By the way, this motor is mounted on the back of a 91 Champion. I bought it new in 91. The 93 intruder replaced a 175 XP that was stolen in 93. I have really enjoyed this combination. Have'nt got to use it much in the last couple of years. I just retired and was looking forward to using it much more. I appreciate all your help ChampionMan.

[ChampioNman]

A good decarb with BRP engine tuner wouldn't hurt matters either.

[316jughead]

If you have an external control box, and not a hot foot, you may have to adjust the throttle cable so you can get more throttle with the warm up lever. Then when it starts to act like it is flooding out you can give it enough throttle to clean it out.

[Jimex]

Don't have a hot foot, do have a throttle/shifter mounted where a remote box would have been, but it is mounted flush to the gunwale. There is no warm up lever.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Jimex &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Don't have a hot foot, do have a throttle/shifter mounted where a remote box would have been, but it is mounted flush to the gunwale. There is no warm up lever. </td></tr></table>

Do you pull out on the control handle to disingage the shift and have throttle only when you start? This is your warm up lever.

[Jimex]

Yes - I understand now. There is a button in the middle that allows the throttle to operate independant of the shifter. I am having a problem getting it to fire though. I am beginning to believe there is a problem with the ignition system now. I can't get it to start at all now. What is a simple test to check for fire at the plugs. I thought of pulling a plug wire and sticking a screw driver in the boot and gapping the top of the plug with the screw driver to see if fire jumps when spinning the engine over but I need some feedback whether or not this will hurt the ignition system. Not sure and don't want to screw up something that might not be broken. Can you help with that Jughead?

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Jimex &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Yes - I understand now. There is a button in the middle that allows the throttle to operate independant of the shifter. I am having a problem getting it to fire though. I am beginning to believe there is a problem with the ignition system now. I can't get it to start at all now. What is a simple test to check for fire at the plugs. I thought of pulling a plug wire and sticking a screw driver in the boot and gapping the top of the plug with the screw driver to see if fire jumps when spinning the engine over but I need some feedback whether or not this will hurt the ignition system. Not sure and don't want to screw up something that might not be broken. Can you help with that Jughead?</td></tr></table>

That won't hurt the system, better have it on the muffs or pull all the plug wires, with your luck it might start. Be very carefull if you pull the wires you don't want a shock or a fire. Better if on the muffs.

[THE WITCHDOCTOR]

Parts house will have a cheap spark tester that you can adjust the gap in for less than 10 bucks...

[ChampioNman]

The shop manual has the complete process for testing the components. Too much typing to post. You'll need a good multimeter. I'd look at the stator if the EET test OK. Becareful when ordering parts as they are based on the color of the power pack's shield color.

[Jimex]

Ok - finally got a spark tester. Apparently have an ignition problem. By a good multimeter do you mean a "peak reading voltmeter"? as refered to in the shop manual? Also, a lot of the tests require an OMC ignition analyzer. Don't have one of those for sure. I've gone thru tests that I could as far as verifying no grounds with an ohmmeter. The stop circuit does not appear to be the problem. The stator reads a little low on resistance ~ 60 ohms vs spec of 100 +/- 10 ohms. I get no reading on the output of the stator when I tested for voltage while spinning the motor over, but I am not using a peak reading voltmeter so I am not sure if it's a good reading. Also, what's EETstand for?

[ChampioNman]

EET is the optical eye that senses the revolutions of the crankshaft. You need a peak reading volt meter and other diagnostic tools. IMHO it would be cheaper for you in the long run to take it in to the shop.

[Jimex]

I am about to take that opinion myself - will have to wait for the lake level to come back up in any event. Boat is on the boat lift and water is too low to float it. Sure hope this latest tropical system dumps some water in the upper Trinity river. Don't need any wind, but sure could use some water here! Thanks for all your advice ChampionMan.