If you are somewhat mechanically inclined is it possible to rebuild my 2000 Johnson V-6 lower unit? If so, what sources can I use to guide me thru the process?
If you are somewhat mechanically inclined is it possible to rebuild my 2000 Johnson V-6 lower unit? If so, what sources can I use to guide me thru the process?
The factory service manual and the necessary special tools
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
Send it to Eddie Pope (gearcaseman) for a rebuild/repair... you won't regret it.![]()
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<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Tom G. »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Send it to Eddie Pope (gearcaseman) for a rebuild/repair... you won't regret it.![]()
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Dan Burnette - Marietta, GA
Triton 18TRX - 200 HO G2
I've talked to several top auto mechanics that have tried this with none having success at it.I wouldn't try it ,parts are too hi and most are not reusable.![]()
01,225,HO,Rude Ram,1;86 gears 93,nitro 190 76.6gps,26tro4 m#E225FHLSIF,S#G04956186
Thanks... you all have convinced me that rebuilding the unit myself is not something I should attempt.
Here is my problem as it looks today, possibly someone can help me diagnose the extent of my problem:
prop and lower unit got 'stuck' in shallow mud/weeds while attempting to get on-plane witth an extra heavy load(Javelin Renegade 19) in the boat. Then lost all forward motion, and heard a "gears not fully engaged noise" when increasing RPM's. Shift lever became to be harder to engage after that also.
Took unit off power head yesterday. No metal filings in oil, which I thought I might have seen, but oil was quite clean. When turning the drive shaft with my hand, the prop shaft turns freely. Held prop shaft tight with a rag, and tried to turn drive shaft(while also holding with rag) and I couldn't turn it even with much effort, as there seemed to be no issues with the gears 'slipping'. There is about a 1/4 - 1/3 turn of the driveshaft before the gears actually grab, but that may be normal(?). The shift rod seemed to engage 'hard', but that may be a 'normal' observation with the unit off the engine.
Ok what's the diagnosis? My initial thought is that the shift has become 'disengaged' somehow, and that was what happened on the lake.
Thanks guys... and how does reach Eddie Pope?
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by jackcollinsmaine »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Thanks guys... and how does reach Eddie Pope?</td></tr></table>
Eddie Pope (AKA Gearcaseman) 423-336-5618 for all of your Lower unit repairs
Eddie's number is listed in the One Stop Shopping thread at the top - give Eddie a call and discuss this with him... he will steer you the right way, trust me. He redid my lower in July, and I'm glad I got it to him instead of going local - I saved a ton of cash for unnecessary parts and service. He had the case broke down and diagnosed before I left, and he was up front on what was needed to be done. Eddie is the man for OMC V6 LU's .![]()
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Ya can't go wrong with Eddie....even with shipping......![]()
It's always a positive sign to see no chunks of metal when draining the oil. There are a lot of possibilities going on here. My first thought is, when you encountered the bottom, did you create any indentations on the front of the "bullet" of the case. If so, this would explain the hard shifting. This is the location of the parts that do all the moving when trying to engage into and out of gear. Also, trying to rotate the driveshaft by hand is hard because the water pump impeller is holding against you.![]()
Eddie-
There is no damage in my casing or the bullet at all. ...and I had removed the waterpump housing and impeller when I was rotating the drive and prop shafts.
I'm going to reattach the lower unit in the next 2 days, and see what happens, unless you have some other suggestions for me to look at.
Thanks for the input! If things go to crap, I'll surely consider sending the unit your way(not sure what that'll cost from Maine?).
Thanks again!
Jack
UPS ground is cheap. Just pack it well.
its been costing me about $60 to ship with insurance from Va. to the far end of FL. for a gearcase and its $10 cheaper with no insurance.About 3 days one way.
01,225,HO,Rude Ram,1;86 gears 93,nitro 190 76.6gps,26tro4 m#E225FHLSIF,S#G04956186