is trailer the same as cars pump up master and hold, then open bleeders , close bleeder, pump again, until air is out, or is there a easy way for one person to do this? thank you robert
is trailer the same as cars pump up master and hold, then open bleeders , close bleeder, pump again, until air is out, or is there a easy way for one person to do this? thank you robert
it would be tough for one person,i just changed my actuator assembly yesterday on my '97 ranger trail and bleeding was quick and simple.drop me an e-mail and i'd be glad to give you my account of how i did it.-jason(bassn5150@yahoo.com)
2 options I can give you, I have done both.
1) Get a piece of rubber tubing that fits tight over the bleeder screw head. Run it into a glass jar with an inch or two of brake fluid already in it. Make sure the end of the hose is clipped to the jar so it stays submerged in the brake fluid.
Use enough tubing so you can place the jar on something above the level of the bleeder screw.
Pump brakes on the trailer with the screwdriver method and keep refilling the resevoir to keep the fluid level up. Bleed until there is no more air that bubbles out of the line.
Make sure the trailer is in a nose down position.
2)Go to Northern tool and get one of these.
http://www.northerntool.com/we...C5503
If you do any kind of brake work it is worth the money. Works like a charm on the trailer.
Give a man a fish, he will eat for a day
Teach a man to fish, he will complain that you stole his fishing spot.
I just got the mity vac and the directions are not very specific in regards to trailer brakes. Are there any pointers someone could give concerning what fittings to use and how to go about bleeding the brake lines. I used the L fittings but seem to be getting alot of suction loss from the rubber fitting at the bleeeder. I have not tried the smaller diameter clear hose yet. Also does anything need to be done at the master cylinder during this process? The directions indicate that fluid will just automatically bleed out which is not happening. I know the system is gravity fed, but not sure exactly how much lower the master cylinder needs to be in comparison with the calipers.
Go to any Advance Auto parts ask for or look around for a "one man brake bleeding kit" $5.99-6.99. It's what i use and IF I can do it anybody can.
I think the "one man brake bleeder" is similar to the mity vac as it pulls a vacuum on the system. Still not sure what if anything needs to be done at the master cylinder to pull the air out of the lines. Do speed bleeders help?
The "One Man"system consist of 1 small plastic container and a clear rubber hose which attaches to the Brake bleeder valve,you pump the actuator till all the the air bubbles are out,you start on the wheel farthest from master cylinder.
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