We're thinking about putting wood in over the existing ceramic tile thru-out the house. My concern is wearing and scratches. Is this stuff as tough as the sales people tell us? We're looking at the "quick-click" type, maybe Bella or Schone from Lumber Liquadaters, real wood, not laminate. It's a fairly large investment so I don't want to end up with something that won't last......any input?
The only kind that is hard is Brazillian Cherry or good ol oak. If you have dogs even these will scratch.
Rest in Peace Buddy Poche - Bayou Bullet.
I will miss you my dear friend.
Why not laminate? Easier to install, less cost, & won't scratch nearly as easy as solid wood.
The Two of Us Bass Club
Houston's Original Bass Club for Married Couples
Founded 1972
facebook.com/2ofUsBassClubHouston
__________________________________________________
1996 CHAMPION 202 Elite DCX - 1996 Merc 225 EFI
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by pijman »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">The only kind that is hard is Brazillian Cherry or good ol oak. If you have dogs even these will scratch. </td></tr></table>
No dogs, do you all make it a point to remove your shoes on entering the house? The flooring we like is Brazilian Koa, which I believe is fairly hard. I don't mind removing shoes, but I'd be hesitant to ask a guest to do so. Do you just live with the scratches or are they repairable? Is it just a matter of a "touch-up" from time to time?
We take shoes off but have a 80 pound dog. I have seen a lot of flooring that they say wont scratch and it does. I have several builder friends that have had to replace floors and they only go with the two i mentioned. Personally I prefer solid not laminate.
Rest in Peace Buddy Poche - Bayou Bullet.
I will miss you my dear friend.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by pijman »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">We take shoes off but have a 80 pound dog. I have seen a lot of flooring that they say wont scratch and it does. I have several builder friends that have had to replace floors and they only go with the two i mentioned. Personally I prefer solid not laminate. </td></tr></table>
I built a house in 07 and did prefinished Oak. I also have a 110 pund Lab. Shoes are nothing but the dog did a number on them. It is not so much a scratch but a dent that you can see when the light hits it. He never got through the finish but they still looked like crap. My parents put down laminate and when we stayed with them while we built the house the dog didn't hurt it at all, but it doesn't look nearly as good as the solid IMO.
True that laminate does not look as good as NEW solid wood, but what about solid wood that has been used for a year or 2 and already looks like it needs to be refinished.
It's all a matter of $$ and preference. I'd rather spend the money & time I saved on fishing rather than listen to the wife complain about the latest scratch & dent on the high $ floor!!
The Two of Us Bass Club
Houston's Original Bass Club for Married Couples
Founded 1972
facebook.com/2ofUsBassClubHouston
__________________________________________________
1996 CHAMPION 202 Elite DCX - 1996 Merc 225 EFI
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by RoadrashPaul »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
I built a house in 07 and did prefinished Oak. I also have a 110 pund Lab. Shoes are nothing but the dog did a number on them. It is not so much a scratch but a dent that you can see when the light hits it. He never got through the finish but they still looked like crap. My parents put down laminate and when we stayed with them while we built the house the dog didn't hurt it at all, but it doesn't look nearly as good as the solid IMO.</td></tr></table>
The engineered wood we looked at is $4.00 per square, we just found some Armstrong laminate at Lowes that really looks like real wood, it's $4.25 per square but the guy took a coin to it and you couldn't see a thing that I couldn't remove with a little spit. I'm starting to think a better grade laminate might be better than the real thing......
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by TeamK »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
The engineered wood we looked at is $4.00 per square, we just found some Armstrong laminate at Lowes that really looks like real wood, it's $4.25 per square but the guy took a coin to it and you couldn't see a thing that I couldn't remove with a little spit. I'm starting to think a better grade laminate might be better than the real thing......
$4 sq/ft
It may not be a big deal to you but that is just my $.02 and that is about all it is worth.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by TeamK »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
The engineered wood we looked at is $4.00 per square, we just found some Armstrong laminate at Lowes that really looks like real wood, it's $4.25 per square but the guy took a coin to it and you couldn't see a thing that I couldn't remove with a little spit. I'm starting to think a better grade laminate might be better than the real thing......
06 PT190TX
06 Modified 90 Opti
80LB Terrova/I-Pilot
6" CMC Jackplate
23P Trophy plus
Lowrance HDS8
12' Talon
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Yammie »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Curious why you are covering tile anyway?</td></tr></table>
It's a 18 year old floor that has some cracked tiles and the color no longer compliments the new kitchen and bathroom cabinets. Wood seems to be an easier alternative to removing all of the old tile.
I was just thinking about this. I assume you are talking about doing a floating floor over the tile. Right?
If so you need to think about what will happen if you get a jopint in the wood lined up with a grout joint. It may flex and squeak or crack. Might want to talk to a flooring joint about doing this. Or think about filling level the grout joints somehow.
Rest in Peace Buddy Poche - Bayou Bullet.
I will miss you my dear friend.
How do you plan on installing the wood floring? If you go with real hardwood, you're going to have to glue it to the ceramic, and if you have loose and/or cracked tiles this will be a trouble spot unless you take care of it first. You would have to remove whatever loose and cracked tiles you have and re-thinset them to the underlayment, which is prolly 1/4" luan plywood. With the laminate flooring, I would also re-thinset any of the cracked and loose ceramic. How big of an area are we talking about?
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."
quote=Tailrace]How do you plan on installing the wood floring? If you go with real hardwood, you're going to have to glue it to the ceramic, and if you have loose and/or cracked tiles this will be a trouble spot unless you take care of it first. You would have to remove whatever loose and cracked tiles you have and re-thinset them to the underlayment, which is prolly 1/4" luan plywood. With the laminate flooring, I would also re-thinset any of the cracked and loose ceramic. How big of an area are we talking about?[/quote]
The plan is to install a floating laminate floor over the ceramic tile, which is on a slab foundation. I am planning to remove any loose or cracked tile and fill with a self-levelling mortar type compound sold by the floor covering store.
That'll work
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."
I would just go ahead and remove the tile regardless of the application you use to install your new floor. Its a little sweat equity but worth it. The easiest way is to protect your cabinets and just go to wacking with a 3lb sledge hammer. Dont try to remove any tile until you have busted it all up. You will find that the tile will start to heave off the floor and you can run a floor scraper under it and will almost come up in sheets. The thinset you will just have to get a 4in scraper and scrap off. The hardest part. Then i would look at getting a good quality engineered glue down wood floor and be done with it. I promis you will hate the hollow/echo sound of a floating floor. Regardless of laminate or wood.
You do know you can tile over tile with the correct thinset
I would suggest pulling up all that tile also get that concrete slab nice and clean with a 4" hand scrapper. Also once you do that check the slab with a 10' straight edge check for highs and lows fill the low spots with SL 150 self leveling or a mapei ultra flex 11, for your highs grind them down you want to be less than 3/16 in 10' side to side with the straight edge level, especially important when installing laminate if not done it will eventually break itself appart. If going with a engineered product try looking at some distressed products they will hide alot. Hope this helps ya... Good luck
2001 Ranger 520VX 225 Merc
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by razorback73 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I would just go ahead and remove the tile regardless of the application you use to install your new floor. Its a little sweat equity but worth it. The easiest way is to protect your cabinets and just go to wacking with a 3lb sledge hammer. Dont try to remove any tile until you have busted it all up. You will find that the tile will start to heave off the floor and you can run a floor scraper under it and will almost come up in sheets. The thinset you will just have to get a 4in scraper and scrap off. The hardest part. Then i would look at getting a good quality engineered glue down wood floor and be done with it. I promis you will hate the hollow/echo sound of a floating floor. Regardless of laminate or wood. </td></tr></table>
wear long sleeves and googles when wacking away with the 3lb sledge.........trust me...........4th wack sent a 1/4 inch piece into my fore arm like a spear.......
Reply With Quote
