Learning to Use a Bait Casting Reel

[Unclesam]

I am an entry level novice who normally is a flyfisherman. However, I was recently introduced to Bass fishing by a good friend. I soon realized I would probably do better with a baitcasting outfit than with a spinning outfit.

So I purchased a Basspro Shop outfit with a baitcast reel that has both centrifical and magnetic brake system.

When I first tried it I had an instant backlash.

I knew then to stop and find out what to do.

I have read evrything I could find. I read about how to hold the rod so that the reel handles are up, adjusting the brakes, and thumb placement, using a piece of tape to limit the amount of line that might backlash, etc, etc, etc.

I have spent hours trying to get it right, but ...

So here are the questions...what is the deal with the thumb? How snug should I hold it?

How do I get a good overhead cast that will go farther than 15 feet and not basklash?

Why when I do a side arm cast does the cast go farther and not backlash very much?

Maybe I need some personal attention ??



Note my friend now lives in Oklahoma so he is no help !!

[shawn706]

Tip 1, start off throwing something heavy, 3/4 to 1/2 oz.
Tip 2, more wrist, less arm. Start off throwing using your wrist only, then slowly let your elbow get more involved in the cast.
Tip 3, don't worry about distance till you get your form right, once you get your form right the distance will come on its own. Practice, Practice, Practeice.

[MarkNY]

What size rod are you using? A medium action rod is better to learn on. The rod will load up better and help with the cast. My first baitcaster was a Cabela's black label, very low end reel. I got so disapointed with it, I set it down and never tried one again until my friend let me fiddle with one of his Curado's. Point being, learn on a half way decent reel. Use light line, like 8 lb test and spool it up just shy of the of the end of the spool. you will see about 1/8 inch of shiney spool left when it is loaded properly. Set your internal brakes with about 3 of them (half of them) turned on. Use a 1/2 to 3/4 oz egg sinker, (something to practice with out on the lawn) hold your rod horizontal and hit the button, turn the cast control knob clockwise until the lure falls very slowly to the ground. now try to cast. The rest of it will come with practice. Your thumb and mind need to work together to get rid of any hesitation. one second hesitation = backlash. It takes a good amount of practice. Don't try to cast into the wind just yet. You'll only get more ticked off.

[herbertrhudy]

I only do a overhead cast when I really want it to fly in open water anyway so I mainly use a sidearm cast(more accurate for me too)

biggest thing I tell newbies(on baitcaster)is DONT TRY SO HARD!!! sometimes it will/can cast alot further when casting easy and shorter(and more backlashes)when casting too hard!!
sometimes its more of a flick of the wrist and some heft of the forearm Rather than an upperarm/elbow toss

[Ouachita]

The key to casting is to let the rod do most of the work and master use of the thumb with baitcasters. Light lures need a soft tipped rod that will load up for a longer cast. If it’s too highly powered it won’t load up on the backstroke of the cast, and you end up throwing a lure instead of casting it with greater accuracy. You need the high power stiffer action rod for heavy lures, and longer for more distance.

Once you have the right rod and line in hand adjust the reel. Tie on a bait and hold the rod at a 45 degree angle. Push the spool release button in and let the bait fall slowly by adjusting the spool tension knob. The spool ought not continue spinning more than 1/2 turn after a free falling lure lands. That setting changes with each lure weight. Next set the centrifugal brake pins after setting spool tension. You have to experiment with that. I'd start with all pins pulled out (max centrif brake) then begin pushing opposing pairs half way or all the way in to find the sweet spot for that bait when casting. Eventually you will only use two pins all or halfway out or all pushed in. If you have a magnetic brake try starting with it set on it’s highest dial setting and gradually loosen as casting distance improves without fouling the line. Aim for 1-3 out of ten positions on the dial so you can build up casting distance.

It's best to firmly grip the trigger then turn the reel 90 degrees so the handle is up toward you or down away from you depending on left or right handed reel. Never cast holding reel with handle pointing to your side. You need the power of your palm corner on the rod in control of the rod, like using a baseball bat or tennis racket. The object is to cast with palm away from you. Once the cast is completed rotate the reel to a comfortable reeling position. That adds significant power and control to the cast and is much less fatiguing over a long day of casting.

Once you do that, holding it properly with handle up or down, release the spool by depressing the thumb bar while simultaneously pressing thumb against the spooled line to hold the bait from slipping. Hold rod out, best with two hands on along handle, with forearms held level. Use wrists, rotating back as in pulling. Sweep the rod tip overhead behind you to about 9-10 o’clock to load up the rod, putting some bend in it, then in a gentle smooth movement snap it forward with shoulder joints locked and forearms away from you, still level, not moving much throughout the whole operation. Just before the rod tip aims level at a target landing spot about 3 feet short of a dead aim down rod (about 11 o’clock or mid way from straight up to level rod ahead), release MOST thumb pressure, letting it ride over the spinning line lightly to feel for line lifting. If you feel the line puff up clamp thumb down and abort the cast before getting a birdsnest. Otherwise, follow through with the snap-swing until you end it with rod aimed at the target spot. Begin adding slight thumb pressure to slow the spool. When the bait arrives over the spot, stop the spool with thumb. It's best to "feather" the thumb pressure for greatest accuracy, watching the bait while keeping one eye on the target. It's a lot like hitting baseball with a bat.

Practice makes perfect, so tie a sinker with a swivel on and get out in the yard with it. You'll soon learn you can get a lot more power in a cast by keeping palm down and away, hand straight out like serving a tennis ball or pitching a baseball. Casting with thumb pointing back at you cuts power about in half and is hard on the wrist tendons. The "brains" of the reel are in the thumb more than any of the latest braking systems, so train it well.

Once you get the overhead cast down begin working on a side sweep cast for putting a bait under tree limbs, then an underhanded roll PITCHING technique which is a whole different operation.

Jim

[Unclesam]

I really appreciate all of the help you guys offered.

I have continued to practice using your tips and ideas and I am actually getting better with it.

I did find that the rod was too stiff. So I am now using a 6 ft med action rod that has more flex in the last foot or so. It loads up better and is easer to use.

So many thanks to all...you all are great !!

[herbertrhudy]

hey thats a LOT of what BBC is for just ask away on anything!!you will give as much as you recieve sometime or another

[Neilslure]

All good tips. I carry 2 spinning rods and they dont see much action. I can cast an 1/8 oz buzzbait on 14 lb test using an Abu 5500. Practice make perfect